.     is 

•  ^^^^^^^^^^ 


PROGRESSIVE 
COOKERY  ^ 


BY  (DRS.  E.  A\.  HINCKLEY 


-  >•«•: ..+.; .+;  ^+; 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


IT  WASHES'  THEM  WHITER  AND  SOFTER 
THAN  ANY  OTHER  BRAND 


IT  NEEDS  NO 

•^*,^IT  NEEDS  NO  BOILER 

Wielanfc  &  SDinmore 

MAKE   IT 


0 £ 


^       X\i  CA-AAA. 

. 


Good- Bye,  Milkman! 


USE 


HIGHLAND" 


(Team 


//  is  prepared  with  neatness  and 
scrupulous  care,  always  as  pure,  sound 
and  natural  as  it  comes  fresh  from 
healthy  cows,  always  ready  for  use, keeps 
perfectly  sweet  as  long  as  the  can  remains 
closed  and  thoroughly  takes  the  place  of 
eitbet  raw  mik  or  cream  if  properly 
diluted. 

Of  special  value  for  infant  feeding, 
being  completely  sterilised. 

/•'OK  SALE  RY 

GROCERS  AND  DRUGGISTS 


Prepared  by 


Helvetia  Milk  Condensing  Co. 


HIGHLAND,  ILL. 


THE   LEADING 
TOURIST  AND 


FAMILY   HOTEL 
ON  THE  COAST 


CORNER  OF  SUITER  AND  JONES  STREETS 

SAN   FRANCISCO,   CAL. 


Large  and  Sunny  Rooms  En  Suite  or  Single,    for   Families  and  Transient 
Sanitary  Plumbing  and  all  Modern  Improvements. 

SPECIHL  INDUCEMENTS  TO  EflSTERN  TOURISTS 

CUISINE    UNSURPASSED 


A\RS.  A\.  E.  PE/MDi-ETOtt,  Prop. 

BUTTERICK  &  GO'S 


Celebrated 
For  Ladies,  Misses,  boys  and  Little  Children's  Garments 

Catalogues  mailed  free 

H.  K. 

124    POST   STREET 


SAN    FRANCISCO 


THESE    ENGRAVINGS    REPRESENT 


ACCURATE   AND  USEFUL 


FOR  SALE  ONLY   BY 

Mrs.  E.  M.  Hinckley 

Orders  may  be  left  at 

Robertson's  Book  Store 

126  POST  STREET,  S.   F. 


AT 


COOK  BOOKS 

Robertson's 


126    POST    STREET,    S.    F. 


RUSSIAN  COFFEE  POT 

For  making  Drip  Coffee 


By  using  this  Coffee  Pot,  double  the  usual 
quantity  of  coffee  may  be  made  from  the 
same  amount  of  ground  coffee.  It  not  only 
boils,  but  steams  the  coffee.  While  the  water 
is  boiling  the  steam  ascends  and  permeates 
the  ground  coffee,  and  when  the  water  boils 
the  bowl  is  reversed  by  touch  ing  the  handle 
and  the  water  drips  slowly  through,  carry- 
ing with  it  the  full  strength  and  aroma  of 
the  coffee,  no  steam  or  aroma  escaping. 

We  have  them  in  sizes  to  hold  from  two 
cups  to  twelve  cups  each,  at  prices  from 
$3.50  to  $8.50  a  piece. 

They  are  made  of  brass,  handsomely 
mounted,  and  suspended  from  a  brass  arch, 
and  beneath  is  a  stationary  alcohol  lamp. 

Coffee  made  in  this  way  should  be  prepared 
on  the  table,  just  prior  to  time  of  serving  it; 
less  than  five  minutes  are  required  to  pre- 
pare it.  It  is  particularly  recommended  for 
after-dinner  (black)  coffee. 

This  pot  will  soon  pay  for  itself  by  the 
great  quantity  of  coffee  saved. 

FOB  SALE  ONLY  BY 

GOLDBERG,    BOWEN 


LEBENBAUM 


J=R7SNCISCO. 


Waiifs 


ESTKBL.ISHED     1556 

213     SUTTER    STREET 

Near  Kearny  Street  San  Francisco,  Cal. 


Only  the  best  of  material  is  used  in  our  establishment,  and  therefore  our 
products  are  strictly  first  class.  Terrapin  Stew  a  Specialty.  Wedding 
Breakfasts,  Overland  Lunches  prepared.  Family  trade  solicited. 

The  Family  Dining-Rootn  connected  with  our  establishment  offers 
the  best  inducements  to  Eastern  Visitors  who  are  in  search  of  a  quiet, 
elegantly  appointed  Restaurant  of  undoubted  excellence. 

SWAIN  BROTHERS,  213  Sutter  Street 

No  connection  with  any  other  establishment. 


IK  YOU  WISH  TO 


Bake  or  Roa^t 


WITHOUT,  AT  THE  SAME  TIME 


Quickly 
Evenly 
Thoroughly^ 
Economically 


ROASTING    THE    COOK 


THE  MONITOR  STEEL  RANCEI 


HOLB^OOK,  MET^ILL  &  STETSO^ 
San  Francisco  and  Sacramento 

Sole  Agents  for  the  Pacific  Coast 


Extract  of  DCCC 
utti. 


The  best  and  most  economical  "Stock"  for  I  A 

T        Soups,  Etc.  % 

?f           One    pound    equals  forty-five    pounds   of  h* 

prime  lean  Beef.  N< 

Send  to  us  for  our  book  of  receipts,  showing  H 
U        use  of  ARMOUR'S   EXTRACT  in   Soups  and 
A        Sauces. 


ARMOUR    &   CO.,    Chicago.      Z 


FOR    SALE    BY    ALL    GROCERS    AND     DRUGGISTS 


W.  F.  BECK  &  CO.  * 

Commission  Merchants 

OFFICE  AND   SALESROOMS:  WAREHOUSE: 

112  and  1 14  California  St.  30  and  32  Fremont  St. 

SAN    FRANCISCO,    CAL. 


BRKNCH    HOUSES 

PORTLAND,  OREGON  -  -  -  -  26  North  Front  Street 

CHICAGO,  IM,.       -  .  55  wabash  Avenue 

1,08  ANGELES,  CAI,.  .       aa8  West  Second  Street 

REPRESENTING  ON   PACIFIC  COAST 

PRICE  BAKING  POWDER  Co.,  Chicago,  111.  LAUTZ  BROS  &  Co.— Soaps,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

NATIONAL  STARCH  MFG.  Co.,  New  York,  N.  Y.       L.  MCMURRAY   PACKING  Co.,  Fredrick,  Md. 
TOWLK  SYRUP  Co.,  St.  Paul,  Minn.  'PAERELL  Co.-Syrups,  Omaha,  Neb. 

COOPER'S  OLIVB  OIL. 


PROGRESSIVE  COOKERY 

COMPILED    FROM 

A  SERIES  OF  LESSONS  GIVEN  AT  THE  SCHOOL  OF  COOKERY 

UNDER   THE   DIRECTION  OF 

MRS.  E.  M.  HINCKLEY 

AUTHOR  OK  "CHAFING  DISH  COOKERY,"  "INVALID  COOKERY," 

ETC.,   ETC. 

•f 


MRS.  E.  M.  HINCKLETS  SERVICES 

CAN    BE    SECURED    FOR 

Demonstration    Lessons   in   Cookery,  American   and   Foreign 
And  Lessons  in  Practical  Cookery. 


The  Invalid  Course  to  Nurses  at  Hospitals  and  Lessons  at  Private 

Institutions  are   the  same  as  given   at  the 

Public  Schools   of  Boston. 

For  Particulars,  address  the  Publishers,  as  below. 
•f 

San  jfrancisco  printing  Co. 

JAS.  A.  PABISER,  MANAGKK 
1892. 


MEDICAL  OBSTETRICAL  SURGICAL 

[Confinement] 

"Alpha"  Male ^  Female  Nurses',  Dressers'^  Masseurs'  Agency 

Established  July,  188'J.    Registered  at  Sacramento,  February.  1S92. 

FRANK  E.  GOODBAN,  Proprietor  MRS.  F.  K.  GOODliAX,  Manager 

Main    Office,    1117    Van    Ness    Ave.,    bet.  Geary  and    Tost    Streets,    S.    F.,    <  ;il. 

L.   D.   TELEPHONE  li.'iT!'. 


Branches:  S3  Grant  Ave.  (open  all  night),  131,  Suffer,  SIM  Geary,  1113&SOOO  Market  >7.--..  »/»  Fran- 
cisco; cor.  Seventh  &  Market  and  1201  Broadway  Sts.,  Oakland:  a  A  Second  Ave.,  San  .Uatui:  Fourth 
&  KSts.,  Sacramento;  9!&  Main  St.,  Stockton;  E.  Santa  Clara  ct-  Second  Sts.,  San  Jose:  ,',<>  / 
Ave.,  Santa  Cruz;  Fourth  and  B  Sts.,  San  Rafael;  Park  St.  «fr  Santa  Clara  Ave.,  Alamcda:  and 
Center  and  Shattnck  Sts.,  Berkeley. 

Experienced  and  reliable  MALE  and  FEMALE  Professional  Nurses  (with  or  without 
diplomas).  Dressers  or  Masseurs  furnished  for  every  kind  of  disease,  at  ANY  HOUR  of  the 
DAY  or  NIGHT,  to  all  parts  of  the  city  or  country.  No  FEE  CHARGED  FOR  FURNISHING  THEM. 

OVERTWO  HUNDRED  PICKED  NURSEsof  all  ages,  religions,  nationalities  and  training  (from 
the  best  hospitals  in  America  and  Europe)  onits  list. 

Leeching,  Cupping,  Catheterizing  and  Dressing  of  any  kind  performed  (instrument* 
provided),  Anaesthetics  administered,  Operations  and  Autopsies  attended,  liaths  (medicated 
or  otherwise  given),  also  Galvanic  and  Faradic  Electricity  or  Massage  Treatment,  at  private 
residences  by  skilled  dressers  subject  to  the  instructions  of  the  patient's  doctor. 

Helpless  and  insane  patients  accompanied  to  and  brought  from  distant  places,  in  a  care- 
ful and  satisfactory  manner  by  responsible  attendants  furnished  with  all  the  requisite 
appliances. 

TERMS:  REGULAR  NURSES  (1st  grade):—  FEMALE,  (for  female  patients)  $20  to $25;  (for  male 
and  insane  patients  or  contagious  diseases  of  both  sexes)  $25. per  week— MALE,  $5  per  day  or 
night  (of  twelve  hours), $8  for  both.  DITTO,  (2d  grade):  FEMALE  (for  female  patients)  120,  (for 
male  and  insane  patients  or  contagious  diseases  of  both  sexes)  $20  to  $25  per  week— MALK.  $  I 
to  $5  per  day  or  night,  $7  to  $8  for  both. 

ASSISTANT  OR  SOCIETY  NURSES  (3d  grade):— FEMALE  (for  female  patients)  |16:  (for male  and 
insane  patients)  $16to$20  per  week,  MALE,  $3  to  |4  per  day  or  night,  $5  to  $6  for  both.  Female 
Nurses  by  the  day:  First  grade,  f3.75;  Second  Do.,  $3 to  $3.50:  Third  Do.,  $2.30  to  $2.75. 

Nurses'  meals,  massage  treatments  and  traveling  expenses  for  any  member  sent  outside 
of  San  Francisco  are  additional  to  the  above  rates. 

DRESSERS,  MALE  OR  FEMALE,  $2  to  $5  per  visit.  MASSEURS,  MALE, general  treatments  $2  to 
$2.50,  local  treatments  three  for  $5.  Female,  general  treatments  $1.50  to  $2.00,  local  treatments 
three  for  $4.  Dressers'  and  Masseurs' prices  are  for  the  city  only,  country  visits  extra. 

For  Itemized  Prices  see  Price  Lists  at  the  Agency's  Main  or  Branch  Offices,  which  its 
members  are  not  permitted  to  exceed  when  engaged  on  cases  coming  through  it,  any  reduc- 
tion in  the  same  being  left  to  their  own  option. 

N.  B.  All  the  members  of  this  Agencv  are  required  to  furnish  the  favorable  recommen- 
dations of  three  physicians  as  to  their  habits  and  proficiency,  before  being  placed  on  its  list. 
and  are  only  retained  on  it  during  such  time  as  they  prove  reasonably  satisfactory  to  their 
employers;  they  are  in  addition  divided  into  three  grades,  according  to  their  ability, 
experience,  training,  manner  and  duration  of  satisfactory  membership,  their  prices 
varying  accordingly,  the  1st  grade  consisting  of  those  who  have  been  tried  on  the  Agency's 
cases  and  found  entirely  competent  and  satisfactory;  the  2d  either  new  members  or  those 
not  sufficiently  qualified  for  the  former  class,  the  3d  are  attendants  only.  Doctors  and 
patrons  will  greatly  aid  the  proprietor  in  his  endeavors  to  supply  none  but  satisfactory  and 
competent  persons'by  reporting  to  his  wife  (the  manager)  or  himself,  if  disengaged,  at  the 
Main  Office,  should  any  serious  neglect  or  fault  be  committed,  or  overcharge  be  made,  by 
one  of  its  members  while  in  their  employ,  and  such  communications  will  be  at  once  seen  to 
and,  if  wished,  held  strictly  confidential;  as  changes  for  said  reasons  in  the  Agency's  staff 
are  occasionally  made  by  him,  he  guarantees  as  members  only  those  sent  from  it. either  direct 
or  through  its  branch  offices,  at  the  time  the  order  for  the  nurse  is  given.  No  attention 
should  be  paid  to  nurses  who  state  that  they  are  members  of  this  Agency,  unless  endorsed 
at  the  Main  Office,  as  many  represent  themselves  as  such,  whose  applications  have  not  been 
received,  or  whose  names" through  some  fault  on  their  part  have  been  removed  from  its 
list. 

Back  Rests  and  Bed  Tables,  Rubber  Rings,  and  Mattresses,  Bed  Pans, 
Night  Stools,  Nurses  Supplies  and  all  the  latest  Mechanical  Comforts  for 
Invalids  for  sale  C.  O.  D.  Invalid  Chairs  for  sale  or  rental. 


EXPLANATORY 


A  rook  hook  cannot  l>e  like  an  encyclopedia.  If  all  the  explana- 
tions necessary  were  given  for  each  recipe,  this  work  would  fill 
volumes. 

All  the  money  in  the  world  will  not  bring  ahout  looked-for  results 
in  cooking,  unless  all  the  materials  are  properly  prepared. 

All  odds  and  ends  left  over  from  the  tahle  should  be  put  carefully 
away,  as  they  can  be  utilized  in  various  ways. 

Bread  Crumbs  that  cannot  be  used  for  toast  or  puddings,  may  be 
dried  in  the  oven  (not  browned)  rolled,  sifted,  and  put  away  in  a 
jar,  and  are  much  better  than  crackers,  for  rissoles,  croquettes,  oys- 
ters, etc.  Stale  bread  crumbs  are  made  by  simply  rubbing  through 
the  palms  of  the  hands. 

To  Cooks.  Make  use  of  everything.  Waste  nothing.  Have  no 
prejudices.  Be  careful,  clean  and  j>i<,n-tn<tl.  Take  as  much  interest 
with  the  family  you  are  with  as  if  it  were  your  own.  Work  con- 
scientiously, not  merely  for  wages  received. 

Measurements.  Be  careful  in  measuring.  Do  not  think  this  or 
that  will  do.  If  you  have  not  the  ic*1c<l  measuring  cups,  uee  an 
ordinary  cup.  being  careful  at  all  times  to  use  one  of  uniform  size. 

Have  flour,  powdered  sugar,  mustard  and  salt  sifted  before  meas- 
uring. Fill  your  measures  with  a  spoon  to  prevent  air  spaces.  A 
cupful  of  dry  material  should  be  rounded,  then  leveled  off. 

A  teaspoon  or  tablespoon  of  flour,  butter,  sugar,  or  baking  powder, 
are  measured  rounding. 

A  teaspoon  or  tablespoon  of  salt,  pepper  or  mustard  are  level 
spoonfuls.  A  speck  of  pepper  is  what  can  be  taken  up  on  the  end 
of  a  penknife.  One-half  teaspoon  is  accurately  measured  by  divid- 
ing through  the  middle  lengthwise.  A  saltspoon  is  one-fourth  of 
a  teaspoon.  A  heaping  teaspoon  or  tablespoon  is  all  they  will  hold. 

A  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  should  be  measured  after  being 
melted.  Butter  the  size  of  an  egg  is  a  quarter  of  a  cup. 


EXPLANATORY 

Four  cups  of  flour  equal  one  quart  or  one  pound. 

Two  cups  of  solid  butter  equal  one  pound. 

Two  cups  of  granulated  sugar  equal  one  pound. 

Two  and  one-half  cups  of  powdered  sugar  equal  one  pound. 

These  measurements  are  for  the  tested  measuring  cups. 

Four  tablespoons  of  liquid  equal  one  wine-glass. 

One  heaping  tablespoon  of  sugar  equals  one  ounce. 

Two  round  tablespoons  of  flour  equal  one  ounce. 

One  round  tablespoon  of  butter  equals  one  ounce. 

Nine  large  eggs  and  ten  medium  eggs  equal  one  pound. 

One  gill  equals  one-half  cupful. 

General  Directions.  The  water  in  which  meats  are  cooked  to 
retain  their  juices,  such  as  boiled  mutton,  chicken,  etc.,  is  not  strong 
enough  to  "be  used  for  broths,  but  may  be  used  for  meat  sauces,  cro- 
quettes, blanquettes,  etc.,  or  reduced  and  added  to  soup  stock  or 
purees. 

Water.  Water  contains  oxygen.  When  water  is  boiled  the  air 
escapes.  It  is  then  dead  water,  and  if  boiled  a  number  of  times  in 
the  same  vessel,  such  as  a  tea-kettle,  a  crust  will  form,  and  after 
awhile  will  peel  off,  causing  a  rattling  in  the  kettle.  When  through 
with  the  water  in  your  tea-kettle  pour  it  out,  and  when  needed 
replenish  with  fresh  water.  Water  boils  at  212  degrees,  and  will 
become  no  hotter. 

A. small  piece  of  charcoal  added  to  cabbage  or  cauliflower  while 
cooking  prevents  any  unpleasant  odor. 

When  soup  stock  is  called  for  in  a  recipe,  and  not  convenient, 
extract  of  meat  may  be  substituted.  Meat,  after  being  once  cooked. 
then  warmed  over  again  in  any  form,  should  only  be  heated,  as 
boiling  will  harden. 

Meat  should  be  immediately  removed  from  butcher's  brown  paper, 
as  it  absorbs  the  juices. 

In  bean  soups  a  thin  slice  of  salt  pork  can  be  added  when  the 
beans  are  cooking. 

Clarify  deep  fat  by  boilftig  a  potato  in  it,  and  then  straining.  Fat 
that  has  been  used  for  doughnuts,  and  become  brown,  can  be  clari- 
fied and  strained  through  a  cloth  ajid  used  for  frying  croquettes. 
Strain  all  fats  after  using. 

All  grease  that  has  been  removed  from  soups,  roasts,  etc.,  should 
be  set  on  the  fire  and  boiled  with  a  raw  potato,  strained  and  set 
away;  it  is  better  than  butter  for  many  purposes,  especially  hashes. 

Test  for  hot  fat  :  When  the  fat  begins  to  smoke  put  in  a  bit  of 
bread.  If  it  brown  quickly,  it  is  hot  enough. 


KX  I'LANATOKY 


If  salt  is  put  in  with  beans  when  first  put  on  to  cook  it  will  hard- 
en them.  Add  salt  when  nearly  cooked. 

1'owdered  sweet  herbs  are  one  bunch  each  of  thyme,  marjoram, 
summer  savory  and  sage,  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  bay  leaves, 
Pound,  sift  and  mix  thoroughly.  The  bay  leaf  of  California  is  too 
pungent:  use  the  imported. 

After  greasing  pans  for  cake,  sprinkle  over  a  little  flour  to  keep 
the  cake  from  sticking  to  pan. 

If  boiled  custard  curdles  stir  in  teaspoon  of  cold  milk. 

For  soups  and  sauces  that  contain  milk,  the  milk  must  be  hot 
before  adding  the  seasoning.  Salt  put  into  cold  milk  will  curdle  it. 

Green  Sage  placed  in  a  pantry  will  keep  out  red  ants. 


RULES 

It  is  impossible  t<>  give  dirert  rules  for  roasting. 

I  toast  meats,  rare  -              per  pound,  ten  minutes. 

Roast  meats,  well  done  per  pound,  fifteen  minutes. 

Lamb  ami  veal     -  -       per  pound,  twenty  minutes. 

Turkey  ten  ]>ound,  three  hours. 

(1hirken  -    three  pound,  one  hour. 

<iame,  rare     -  twenty  minute:-. 

Tame  dnrk  -        forty  minutes. 

Fish  -        eight  pounds,  till  flesh  will  break  or  one  hour. 

YI:<;KTAHI.KS 

New  potatoes,  small  boil    twenty   minutes. 

Potatoes,  old        -  -        one-half  hour. 

Teas,  new       -  -    twenty-live  minutes. 

Peas,  old  from  one-half  to  one  hour. 

String  heans  from  one-half  to  one  hour  and  a  half. 

Onions  and  turnips  -                                      from   one  to  one  hour  and  a  half. 

Carrots  and  cabbage  -     from   one  to  one  hour  and  a  half. 

Cauliflower  and  asparagus  -      one-half  hour. 

Artichokes  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Vegetables  must  be  put^into  Iioilliuj  salted  water  to  prevent  the 
nutritious  qualities  from  escaping. 

Potatoes  must  be  peeled  before  boiling.  A  bitter,  indigestible  juice 
lies  near  the  skin.  Do  not  leave  the  potatoes  in  cold  water  any 
length  of  time  before  cooking,  because  it  draws  out  the  starch!  etc. 

Potatoes  that  are  to  be  cooked  in  deep  fat,  should  lay  ill  salted 
water  a  few  hours,  and  dried  in  a  cloth  before  cooking. 


Mural  Fruit  Flavors 


Vanilla 
Lemon 
Orange 
Rose,  etc. 


Flavorings 

as  Represented 


One  single  trial  will  prove  that  for  Flavor- 
ing lee-Cream,  Cakes,  Puddings,  Sauces, 
etc.,  they  are  superior  in  delicacy  of  flavor, 
strength  and  purity  to  any  ever  used 

Unequalled  in  Purity 
Unequalled  in  Strength 
Unequalled  in  Economy 
Unequalled  in  Flavor 

PRICE  FLAVORING  EXTRACT  CO, 


PROGRESSIVE  COOKERY 


SOUPS 


Meat  Soups.  Wash  soup  meat  quickly  with  a  piece  of  cheese 
cloth  wrung  out  in  cold  water,  to  prevent  the  juices  escaping. 

Dark  Meat  Stock.  Two  and  one-half  pounds  of  the  shin  of 
l>eef,  half  a  pound  of  liver  and  any  trimmings  of  meat  you  may  have, 
a  veal  bone;  two  and  one-half  quarts  of  cold  water,  teaspoon  of  salt, 
six  whole  cloves,  six  black  pepper  corns,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  one 
inch  blade  of  mace,  a  stalk  of  celery,  one  carrot,  onion  and  turnip 
chopped.  Soak  the  meat  in  the  water  one  and  one-half  hours  before 
heating;  then  add  vegetables,  spices  and  herbs;  simmer  seven  hours 
and  strain.  AVhen  needed  for  soup  remove  the  fat  and  it  will  be 
ready  for  use.  Soup  stock  keeps  longer  without  vegetables.  Never 
add  water  to  soup  after  it  begins  to  simmer. 

Consomme,  or  White  Soup  Stock.  The  above  recipe  will 
answer  for  white  stock,  using,  instead  of  beef,  veal  or  one  large 

chicken. 

Clearing-  for  Consomme  or  Bouillon.  Skim  off  all  the  fat. 
Turn  the  soup  into  the  pot,  being  careful  not  to  turn  in  the  sediment, 
and  set  on  the  fire.  Beat  the  white  and  shell  of  two  eggs  with  one 
cup  of  cold  water.  Stir  into  the  soup,  and  when  it  comes  to  a  boil 
set  back  where  it  will  come  to  a  simmer  twenty  minutes.  Strain 
through  a  napkin  wet  in  ice  water,  and  if  not  ready  to  use,  put  away 

17 


18  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

in  a  cool  place.  Ordinarily  do  not  clear  your  soups,  as  the  albumen 
is  contained  in  the  sediment,  and  is  the  most  nourishing  part  of  the 
soup.  A  piece  of  liver  added  to  dark  soups  is  considered  by  many 
an  improvement.  All  milk  soups  and  sauces  should  be  cooked  in 
double  boiler. 

Royal  Custard.  Half  a  cup  of  consomme.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
the  two  eggs  (left  from  cleared  consomme),  and  one-quarter  tea- 
spoon of  salt,  stir  into  the  consomm/.  Butter  a  cup,  pour  in 
the  custard,  put  the  cup  in  a  deep  pan,  and  surround  with  hot  water- 
Cook  on  the  top  of  stove  or  in  the  oven  until  firm  in  the  center.  Let 
the  custard  cool.  Turn  out,  cut  in  cubes,  and  add  to  consomme 
after  it  is  dished. 

Julienne  Soup.  One  quart  of  stock,  one  scant  pint  of  mixed 
vegetables.  Cut  vegetables  with  French  cutter,  and  celery  and 
onions  into  shreds.  Cover  with  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  when 
cooked  add  the  one  quart  of  hot  stock.  Season  to  taste.  A  little 
Worcestershire  sauce  may  be  added. 

Macaroni  and  Vermicelli  Soup.  One  quart  of  stock,  one  cup  of 
vermicelli,  or  two  to  three  sticks  of  macaroni,  cooked  until  soft  in 
salted  water.  Drain  and  add  the  quart  of  hot  stock;  season  to  taste. 

Rice,  Tapioca  and  Barley  Soup.  Two  tablespoons  of  rice,  tapi- 
oca or  barley,  cooked  until  tender,  in  boiling  salted  water,  then  pour  on 
one  quart  of  hot  stock.  Barley  must  be  soaked  one  hour  and  boiled 
two  hours  or  more.  Rice  is  better  with  mutton  or  chicken  stock ; 
season  to  taste. 

Tomato  Soup.  One  quart  of  stock,  one  can  of  tomatoes ;  cook 
the  tomatoes  until  soft  enough  to  strain.  Strain  and  add  to  one 
quart  of  hot  stock,  season  to  taste,  add  one  teaspoon  of  sugar  and  two 
tablespoons  of  boiled  rice. 


I'WHiKKSSIYK    COOKKKY  19 

Mixed  Vegetable  Soup.  One  quart  of  stock.  Chop  one  Final  1 
carrot,  one  onion,  one  turnip,  one  parsnip,  one  tablespoon  of  parsley, 
one  stalk  of  celery,  one  cup  of  strained  tomatoes.  Cook  vegetables 
and  tomatoes  together,  add  a  quart  of  hot  stock.  Some  people  prefer 
the  onion  fried,  as  it  gives  a  richer  flavor.  Season. 

Split  Pea  Soup.  One-half  pint  of  split  peas,  one  quart  of  cold 
water,  a  speck  of  soda,  one  small  carrot,  one  small  turnip,  one  small 
onion,  a  stalk  of  celery.  Pick  over  and  wash  the  peas,  put  on,  with 
the  water  and  soda  :  cook  on  the  back  of  the  stove  one  hour.  Then 
add  the  vegetables,  which  must  be  cut  small  and  previously  boiled 
until  tender  in  another  saucepan,  seasoning  with  one-half  teaspoon 
of  sugar,  one  teaspoon  of  salt  and  a  speck  of  pepper;  simmer  one 
hour  more,  or  until  soft.  Hub  through  a  strainer.  Heat  again,  and 
stir  into  the  soup  one-half  tablespoon  of  butter  mixed  with  one-half 
tablespoon  of  flour.  Serve  with  fried  croutons  of  bread,  or  toasted 
crackers. 

Lentil  Soup.  Make  the  same  as  split  pea  soup,  using  more  water. 
This  excellent  vegetable  is  not  generally  known,  but  is  much  superior 
to  beans  or  dried  peas.  Most  of  what  we  receive  here  comes  from 
(ierinany.  Many  persons  consider  them  more  expensive  than  beans 
or  peas,  not  knowing  that  they  swell  three  or  four  times  their  size 
when  soaked. 

Noodles  for  Soup.  Break  one  large  egg  into  a  bowl.  Beat  into 
it  one  cup  of  flour.  Work  with  the  hands  until  like  putty.  Dredge 
a  bread  board  slightly  with  flour.  Put  the  noodle  mixture  on  the 
board,  sprinkle  the  rolling  pin  with  flour,  and  roll  as  thin  as 
possible.  It  should  l>e  so  thin  you  can  look  through  it.  Let  it  dry 
for  ten  minutes,  then  roll  it  up  and  cut  with  a  sharp  knife  into  very 
thin  slices;  spread  on  the  board  and  dry  again  for  one-half  hour. 
Cook  rapidly  fifteen  minutes  in  boiling  water,  with  one  tablespoon 
of  salt.  Put  half  the  noodles  into  soup.  Fry  the  others  in  browned 
butter,  and  use  as  a  vegetable. 


20  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Italian  Soup.  Any  dark  stock  will  answer.  Cook  vermicelli  or 
spaghetti;  put  in  hot  tureen,  grate  on  some  cheese  and  stir.  Pour 
over  the  boiling  stock  and  serve. 

Ox  Tail  Soup.  Four  ox  tails,  one  onion,  two  tablespoons  of 
butter,  or  beef  drippings,  four  quarts  of  cold  water,  a  bouquet,  four 
cloves,  six  whole  peppers.  Have  the  ox  tails  separated  at  the  joints. 
Fry  chopped  onion  in  hot  butter  or  drippings ;  when  brown  put  into 
soup  kettle  with  bouquet,  cloves,  whole  peppers  and  ox  tails;  pour 
over  the  four  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  add  one  tablespoon  of  salt, 
dimmer  five  hours.  Select  the  nicest  of  joints  to  serve  in  soup; 
strain,  put  away  until  cold,  remove  fat,  add  the  joints  and  heat. 
Put  in  hot  tureen  one  tablespoon  of  wine  and  one  slice  of  lemon. 
Season  the  soup  to  taste,  pour  into  tureen  and  serve. 

Bouquet.  One  sprig  each  of  thyme,  sweet  marjoram  and  summer 
savory,  two  leaves  of  sage,  one  bay  leaf,  tied  with  a  sprig  of  parsley. 

Meat  Glaze.  Meat  glaze  is  made  by  reducing  to  one- third  )>y 
simmering,  water  that  such  meats  as  chicken,  mutton,  etc.,  have 
been  boiled  in.  When  properly  made  will  keep  for  three  or 
four  months  in  a  cold  place.  Put  into  air  tight  jars  until  needed. 

Mock  Turtle  Soup.  One  calf's  head,  one  pound  of  lean  beef, 
one  carrot,  one  onion,  one  turnip,  piece  of  celery,  three  eggs,  one 
lemon,  six  whole  peppers,  six  allspice,  six  cloves,  bouquet,  one  table- 
spoon of  salt.  Scrape,  wash  and  cleave  the  head  removing  the 
brains.  Put  into  soup  kettle  with  beef,  spices,  bouquet,  etc.,  pour  on 
four  quarts  of  cold  water.  Chop  vegetables,  heat  two  tablespoons  of 
butter  or  drippings,  fry  brown,  add  to  soup.  Cook  head  until  tender 
and  remove.  Reduce  stock  to  two  quarts,  strain,  cool  and  remove 
fat;  put  stock  on  to  boil  ten  minutes  before  serving.  Brown  two 
tablespoons  of  butter,  stir  in  two  tablespoons  of  flour,  moisten  with 
one  cup  of  soup,  stir  into  soup.  Have  two  eggs  boiled  hard  cut  into 
dice.  Make  forcemeat  balls  of  reserved  brains.  Have  brains 


PROGKKSSIYK    COOKERY  21 

blanched  l>v  j touring  over  them  boiling  water,  then  dropping  in  cold 
water,  remove  veins  and  skin;  put  on  in  boiling  salted  water,  cook 
one-half  hour,  chop,  season  with  pepper,  salt  and  a  speck  of  cayenne, 
squeeze  in  one-half  lemon  and  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice,  one  table- 
spoon of  flour,  one  tablespoon  of  melted  butter;  beat  yolk  of  remain- 
ing egg  and  add  to  mixture;  form  into  balls  the  size  of  a  nutmeg, 
roll  in  flour,  brown  in  hot  butter.  Serve  two  in  each  soup  plate. 
Put  the  hard  boiled  eggs  into  the  tureen  with  two  tablespoons  of 
sherry.  Pour  over  the  !?oup.  Serve. 

Gumbo  Soup.  Brown  a  tablespoon  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  one 
chopped  onion,  with  about  one  tablespoon  of  raw  ham  cut  into  dice 
shape,  half  a  green  pepper  cut  into  small  dice,  half  a  tablespoon  of 
salt  and  a  teaspoon  of  pepper.  Moisten  with  three  pints  of  stock, 
add  one  tablespoon  of  raw  rice,  six  sliced  gumbos  and  one  sliced 
tomato.  Let  all  cook  thoroughly  for  half  an  hour. 

Puree  of  Green  Peas,  Lima  Beans,  Corn,  Celery,  etc.  One 
quart  of  fresh  peas,  or  a  can  of  French  beans  or  corn,  one  quart  of 
boiling  water,  one  tablespoon  of  butter,  one  quart  of  milk  or  cream. 
Cook  until  soft  in  the  boiling  water,  then  rub  through  a  puree  sieve, 
moistening  occasionally  with  water  in  which  they  were  cooked.  Put 
into  a  double  boiler  the  pint  of  cream  or  milk,  add  one  saltspoon  of 
white  pepper  and  one  teaspoon  of  salt.  Heat  your  sauce  pan,  put  in 
the  butter,  add  a  teaspoon  of  flour,  be  careful  not  to  burn,  pour  in  a 
part  of  milk  gradually.  Return  to  double  boiler,  adding  sifted 
vegetable ;  cook  all  together  for  five  minutes;  serve  hot.  If  not  salt 
<MioULrli  add  more. 

Puree  of  Spinach.  Two  quarts  of  spinach  cooked  one-half  hour 
iritlmiit  irrit,';-,  chop,  pound  to  a  paste,  rub  through  a  sieve,  add  one 
quart  of  hot  stock,  melt  three  teaspoons  of  butter, stir  in  three  table- 
spoons of  flour,  pour  over  the  stock;  cook  ten  minutes,  add  one  pint 
of  hot  cream  or  milk. 


22  PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY 

Mullagatawney  or  Pepper-pot.  Make  a  good  soup  stock  of 
veal,  rabbit  or  chicken;  when  tender  remove  and  set  aside  white 
meat.  Chop  one  Chili  pepper,  sour  apple,  two  onions,  melt  one  table- 
spoon of  butter  or  dripping  in  a  saucepan,  fry  the  onions  brown, 
then  add  apple,  then  one  tablespoon  of  curry  powder,  one  teaspoon 
of  salt,  one  teaspoon  of  sugar.  Have  two  quarts  of  stock  hot;  pour 
a  little  over  mixture,  then  put  all  in  soup  kettle  and  cook  five 
minutes;  have  ready  four  tablespoons  of  cooked  rice,  also  white  part 
of  meat  cut  in  small  pieces;  now  add  to  soup  one-half  cup  of  cream, 
strain,  add  meat  and  rice,  return  to  stove,  heat  but  not  boil.  Cream 
may  be  left  out.  More  salt  may  be  needed. 

Cream  of  Lettuce.  Wash  thoroughly  one  head  of  lettuce;  chop. 
Place  in  hot  saucepan  two  tablespoons  of  butter;  add  lettuce;  cook 
five  minutes.  Have  one  quart  of  white  broth  in  soup  kettle,  add 
hot  lettuce,  season  with  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  one  saltspoon  of  pepper, 
one-quarter  saltspoon  of  nutmeg,  bouquet;  add  four  tablespoons  of 
well-washed  rice;  cook  forty-five  minutes;  strain  through  puree 
sieve,  return  to  well-cleaned  soup  kettle  and  heat.  Pour  in  one-half 
pint  of  sweet  cream,  heat  again.  Be  careful  not  to  boil.  Serve. 

Sorrel  Soup.  Put  one  bunch  of  sorrel  in  one  pint  of  water:  stir 
until  soft  with  wooden  spoon.  Fry  one  chopped  onion  in  one 
tablespoon  of  butter  to  a  light  brown,  season,  add  one  pint  of  good 
gravy  or  stock.  Boil  up  once,  then  put  in  one  cup  of  hot  cream. 

If  stock  is  used,  add  two  tablespoons  of  flour  to  butter. 

Cream  of  Rice.  Wash  and  parboil  one-half  pound  of  rice.  Add 
a  tablespoon  of  butter.  Drain,  and  cook  in  one  quart  of  white  stock 
until  soft.  Rub  through  a  sieve,  add  one  pint  of  cream,  heat,  sea- 
son, one  teaspoon  of  salt,  one  saltspoon  of  pepper,  add  one  cup  of 
cooked  asparagus  tops.  If  too  thick,  thin  with  more  stock. 

Bisque  of  Clams.  Chop  one  quart  of  clams  rather  fine,  add  one 
quart  of  chicken  stock,  and  simmer  for  an  hour.  Cut  one  onion 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKKKY  23 

fine,  cook  in  three  tablespoons  of  butter  for  fifteen  minutes,  being 
careful  not  to  brown;  then  draw  the  onion  to  the  side  of  the  pan, 
and  after  pressing  out  all  the  butter,  put  the  onion  in  with  the 
dams.  Add  to  the  butter  two  tablespoons  of  flour,  and  stir  until 
smooth  and  frothy,  then  add  to  the  soup.  Also  one  bay  leaf,  one 
sprig  of  parsley,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  one  blade  of  mace,  one  teaspoon 
of  salt,  and  one-half  teaspoon  of  white  pepper.  Simmer  ten  min- 
utes; then  remove  herbs  and  spice,  and  rub  soup  through  puree 
sieve.  Return  to  pot,  and  heat  to  boiling  point.  Add  one  pint  of  hot 
cream:  heat  again  to  boiling,  and  stand  back  until  time  to  serve. 
Draw  the  soup  forward.  Add  two  well  beaten  eggs,  and  cook  two 
minutes.  Add  more  salt  and  pepper,  if  needed;  serve  immediately. 
This  soup  nnixt  not  boil  after  the  eggs  are  added. 


Lobster  Bisque.  As  fresh  lobster  cannot  easily  be  procured  in 
California,  craw-fish  may  be  substituted.  One  lobster,  one  and 
one-half  pint  of  white  stock,  one  pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs,  one 
quart  of  thin  cream,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-half  teaspoon  of 
white  pepper,  bay  leaf,  sprig  of  parsley,  blade  of  mace  and  celery, 
slice  of  onion,  three  tablespoons  of  butter,  one  of  flour.  Remove 
carefully  from  shell,  cut  in  cubes  the  meat  from  the  claws.  Pound 
the  rest  to  a  paste  in  large  mortar;  then  add  the  coral,  and  small 
red  claws;  pound  again.  Put  this  mixture  into  a  soup  kettle,  add 
stock  and  seasoning.  cook  one-half  hour,  then  put  in  bread  crumbs, 
cook,  but  not  boil,  twenty  minutes.  Now  strain  through  a  French 
sieve,  and  return  to  the  fire.  Have  the  cream  hot  in  the  double 
boiler,  heat  saucepan,  melt  remainder  of  butter,  add  flour,  cook, 
then  gradually  moisten  with  hot  cream;  pour  into  soup.  Heat,  but 
nut  hnil.  Add  cubes  of  the  fish;  serve.  This  bisque  must  be 
a  light  pink.  If  claws  and  coral  are  not  sufficient  to  color,  add 
cooked  tomato  juice  in  which  a  speck  of  soda  has  been  dissolved. 
Bisques  and  purges  must  be  perfectly  smooth  ;  strain  a  second  time 
if  necessary.  This  bisque  is  sold  for  $1  per  plate  in  Paris. 


24  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Velvet  Soup.  One  large  chicken,  or  two  pounds  of  veal,  one-half 
pint  of  blanched  almonds,  one  pint  of  eream,  one  pint  of  stale 
bread  crumbs,  two  tablespoons  of  butter,  two  tablespoons  of  flour, 
three  stalks  of  celery,  an  onion,  slice  of  carrot,  two  bay  leaves,  two 
sprigs  of  parsley,  two  cloves,  small  piece  of  cinnamon,  bit  of  mace, 
one-half  tablespoon  of  salt,  one-half  teaspoon  of  white  pepper.  Clean 
the  fowl,  cover  with  water,  simmer  till  tender.  Take  out  the  fowl, 
skim  off  the  fat,  and  strain  through  a  wet  napkin  into  a  stew-pan ; 
add  bread,  vegetables  and  spices,  simmer  one  hour.  Blanch  almonds 
pounded  to  powder  in  a  mortar,  chop  fine  the  white  meat,  then 
pound  to  a  paste,  adding  a  little  of  the  cream  to  moisten.  Rub 
stock,  bread,  almonds  and  fowl  through  a  French  sieve.  Now  add 
cream,  bring  to  boiling  point  in  double  boiler.  Put  the  butter  in  a 
hot  saucepan,  be  careful  not  to  brown,  add  the  flour,  and  enough  of 
the  soup  to  make  it  flow;  add  to  the  soup  mixture,  and  heat,  Imt 
not  boil.  If  not  perfectly  smooth  strain  again. 

Black  Bean  Soup.  One  pint  of  beans,  soaked  over  night  in  two 
quarts  of  water.  Pour  off  the  water  in  the  morning.  Add  two 
quarts  more,  then  put  on  to  cook.  Slice  one  onion,  fry  in  one  table- 
spoon of  butter,  add  to  the  beans,  also  a  little  celery.  Simmer  until 
the  beans  are  tender;  if  the  water  evaporates  add  more,  so  as  to 
have  the  same  amount  when  cooked.  Rub  through  a  strainer, 
return  to  the  stove,  add  saltspoon  of  mustard,  tablespoon  of  butter 
mixed  with  one  of  flour;  (this  prevents  the  beans  from  settling.) 
Season  to  taste.  Have  two  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  slices,  also  lemon 
sliced  thin,  and  one-half  cup  of  wine  in  a  hot  tureen.  Pour  in  the 
soup.  Stock  may  be  used  instead  of  water,  and  is  better,  also  a  few 
tablespoons  of  tomato  catsup.  Serve  with  fried  croutons.  All  bean 
soups  may  be  made  in  this  way. 

Potage  a  la  Reine.  Remove  the  fat  from  one  quart  of  water  in 
which  a  chicken  has  been  boiled.  Season  highly  with  salt,  pepper, 
celery,  salt,  and  a  little  onion  if  desired,  and  put  on  to  boil.  Mash 


I'i:o<;i<KSSIVK    rooKKKY  -~> 

the  yolk  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  fine,  and  mix  them  with  one-half 
cup  of  bread  crumbs  soaked  until  soft  in  a  little  milk.  Chop  the 
white  meat  of  the  chicken  until  fine  like  meal,  and  stir  it  into  the 
•  ••_rir  and  bread  paste.  Add  one  pint  of  hot  cream  slowly,  and  then 
rub  all  into  the  hot  chicken  liquor.  Simmer  five  minutes;  add 
more  salt,  if  needed,  and  if  too  thick  add  more  cream,  or  if  not  thick 
enough  more  crumbs.  It  should  be  like  a  puree.  Use  the  dark 
meat  for  croquettes. 

Mock  Bisque  Soup.  One-half  can  of  tomatoes,  one  quart  of 
milk,  one-fourth  cup  of  butter,  one  tablespoon  of  flour,  one  teaspoon 
of  salt,  one-half  saltspoon  of  white  pepper.  Stew  the  tomatoes  till 
soft.  Heat  the  milk  in  the  double  boiler.  Heat  the  butter,  add 
Hour,  iln  not  6ro«m,  add  enough  of  hot  milk  to  make  this  pour  eas- 
ily. Stir  carefully  into  the  boiling  milk,  cook  ten  minutes.  Add 
salt  and  pepper  to  the  tomatoes,  also  a  saltspoon  of  soda.  Strain 
into  the  milk.  Serve  very  hot,  with  cheese  canopees. 

Bisque  of  Crab.  Meat  of  a  small  crab,  one  tablespoon  of  flour, 
one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  a 
few  drops  of  onion  juice,  a  grating  of  nutmeg.  Chop  the  crab  fine, 
season,  add  butter  melted,  and  one  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs.  Pour 
over  this  one  quart  of  hot  milk,  stir,  put  in  the  soup  kettle,  cook 
ten  minutes,  xfrniii,  heat  again.  Serve  hot.  It  may  need  more 
seasoning. 

Claret  Soup.  Boil  the  claret  with  six  whole  cloves,  a  stick  of 
<in  nan  ion  a  few  minutes,  add  a  teaspoon  of  sugar.  Have  one  quart 
of  stock  boiled  with  one  half  cup  of  j>earled  tapioca.  Strain  claret 
into  the  stock.  Season  and  serve. 

Crofiton  for  Soup.  Cut  bread  in  slices  one-half  inch  thick, 
remove  the  crusts,  spread  with  butter,  cut  in  cubes.  1'ut  in  the  pan. 


26  PROGKKSS1YK    COOKERY 

being  careful  to  keep  the  buttered  side  up.  Cook  in  the  oven  until 
golden  brown.  Serve  hot;  or  heat  butter  in  the  frying  pan,  and  fry 
the  bread  unbuttered. 

Baked  Crackers.  One-half  teaspoon  of  butter  to  each  whole 
cracker.  Split  round  Boston  crackers,  spread  them  with  a  thin  layer 
of  butter.  Put  them  buttered  side  up  into  a  pan,  and  brown  in  a 
hot  oven.  Serve  plain,  or  with  soups  and  oyster  stews. 

Baked  Crackers  with  Cheese.  Mix  six  tablespoons  of  grated 
cheese,  a  saltspoon  of  pepper,  a  speck  of  salt.  Split  six  Boston 
crackers,  butter  them  and  put  a  teaspoon  of  the  cheese  mixture  on 
them.  Bake  till  crisp  and  brown. 

Cheese  Canopees.     Cut  stale  bread  in  slices  one-half  inch  thick;, 
cut  with  small  biscuit-cutter.     Then  cut  the  circles   in  half;  they 
should  be  crescent  shape.     Spread  with  butter,  sprinkle  with  pepper 
and  Parmesan  cheese.     Brown  in  oven. 

Croiiton  Souffle.  Into  half  a  pint  of  cold  water  stir,  until  smooth, 
one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour,  turn  the  same  into  a  spider  with  a 
small  cup  of  butter, cook  and  stir  all  the  time  until  well  done;  when 
cooled  add  four  beaten  eggs;  beat  well  and  drop  the  dough  in  small 
round  balls  on  a  tin,  fifteen  minutes. 

Celery  Soup.  One  head  of  celery,  two  cups  of  mashed  potatoes, 
one  onion,  one  quart  of  milk,  one  cup  of  whipped  cream.  Chop  the 
best  part  of  the  celery.  Put  into  double  boiler  the  milk ;  when  hot 
season;  add  the  celery  potatoes  and  onion,  cut  in  fine  pieces.  Cook 
forty  moments,  rub  through  a  sieve,  return  to  double  boiler;  when 
very  hot  pour  into  heated  soup  tureen,  stir  in  the  whipped  cream. 

Cardinal  Soup.  One  pint  of  white  broth,  one  pint  of  good  milk, 
one  onion,  a  bouquet,  six  beets,  two  tablespoons  of  butter,  two  of  flour, 
one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoon  of  white  pepper.  Boil 


PROGKKSSIYK    COOKER V  21 

the  beets  till  soft  and  strain  out  the  juice.  Put  the  broth  and  milk 
in  double  boiler,  add  the  bouquet  tied  in  a  small  piece  of  cheese 
cloth,  when  hot  remove  the  bouquet.  Heat  the  butter  in  hot 
saucepan  and  fry  chopped  onion  till  of  a  golden  brown.  Strain 
out  the  onion,  add  to  the  butter  the  flour,  pour  gradually  over 
this  a  part  of  the  hot  milk  and  broth,  then  stir  all  into  the  double 
1  toiler.  Cook  five  minutes,  strain,  add  the  hot  juice  of  the  beets. 
More  seasoning  may  be  needed. 

Okra  Gumbo.  One  tender  five-pound  chicken,  one  onion,  one-half 
do/en  tomatoes,  one  and  one-half  dozen  okra,  browned  flour,  two  red 
peppers.  Wash  the  chicken  clean  and  cut  in  small  pieces.  Puttwo 
tablespoons  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  have  the  onion  sliced  and 
sprinkled  with  browned  flour  and  fry  a  light  brown,  then  add  the 
red  peppers  cut  up  fine,  then  sprinkle  the  chicken  with  brown 
flour,  then  add  sliced  tomatoes  and  fry  altogether  a  light  brown. 
Put  in  soup  kettle;  add  two  quarts  of  hot  water.  Then  add  the 
sliced  okra.  season  with  salt  to  taste,  cook  two  hours.  This  soup 
must  be  thick,  dark  and  rich.  Serve  with  rice  cooked  dry. 


FISH 


To  be  good  fish  m-uxt  be  fresh.  Select  those  with  flesh  firm,  eyes 
clear,  the  fins  stiff,  the  gills  red  and  hard  to  open.  The  success  of 
the  French  in  preparing  fish  is  owing  to  the  extreme  care  which  they 
take  both  in  the  buying  and  the  treatment  before  cooking.  After 
cleaning  carefully,  lemon  juice  is  squeezed  over  the  fish,  then 
peppered,  salted  and  strewed  with  powdered  sweet  herbs  and  let 
stand  one  hour  before  cooking.  Lemon  juice  makes  fish  flaky. 

Fish  a  la  Normandie.  Take  two  large  mackerel  or  sole,  have 
them  boned.  Stuffing:  One  dessertspoon  of  sifted  sweet  herbs,  one 
cup  of  crumbs,  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  onion  or  shalot,  one  of 
chopped  parsley,  one  of  mushrooms.  Spread  the  stuffing  over  the 
fish,  season,  place  the  other  fish  on  top,  with  two  ounces  of  butter 
dropped  in  bits  over  it.  Put  in  oven,  bake  half  an  hour.  When  baked 
sprinkle  with  bread  crumbs  browned  in  hot  butter,  a  little  lemon  juice, 
and  serve  with  piquante  sauce. 

Breaded  Turbans  of  Flounders.  Fillet  three  flounders,  season 
and  marinate  with  four  tablespoons  of  melted  butter,  two  tablespoons 
of  lemon  juice,  and  one  tablespoon  of  chopped  parsley.  Koll  them 
up,  skewer,  then  roll  in  bread  crumbs,  then  in  egg,  then  again  in 
dry  stale  bread  crumbs.  Fry  four  minutes  in  fat  hot  enough  to 
brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  one  minute.  Serve  with  remoullde  sauce. 
One  flounder  will  cut  into  four  fillets.  To  vary  these,  enclose  an 
oyster  or  mushroom.  Wooden  toothpicks  may  be  used  for  skewer- 
ing. Marinate  is  to  dip  in  melted  butter.  Use  a  wire  basket  to 
fry  in. 


PROGKKSSIVK    COOKERY  29 

Fish  en  Papillate .  Select  six  tomcods  of  equal  size.  Clean  and 
stuff  with  dry  stuffing.  Season  the  outsides  with  salt  and  pepper, 
squeeze  over  it  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Have  ready  six  sheets 
of  soft  white  paper,  oiled,  longer  and  wider  than  fish,  put  fish  in 
center  of  paper.  Lay  on  the  paper  one  tablespoon  of  cooked  fine 
herlis.  lay  the  fish  on  top,  spread  another  tablespoon  of  herbs  and 
dressing  on  the  fish,  then  fold  the  paper  and  turn  up  the  edges. 
Serve  hot  in  paper  with  Sauce  Tartare. 

Cooked  Fresh  Herbs.  Chop  one  onion,  fry  in  two  tablespoons 
iif  1  aitter  five  minutes,  then  add  double  the  quantity  of  finely  minced 
mushrooms  and  a  grain  of  garlic,  season,  with  one-half  teaspoon  of 
salt,  one  teaspoon  of  pepper,  and  tablespoon  of  chopped  parsley. 
Cook  ten  minutes  longer  and  then  let  it  cool.  Remove  the  grain  of 
garlic. 

Fish  Cooked  with  Oysters.  Fillet  four  flounders  and  sprinkle 
«>ver  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  let 
them  stand  awhile.  Melt  three  tablespoons  of  butter  and  dip  the 
fish  in.  Lay  in  the  center  of  the  fish  two  large  oysters,  or  a  spoon- 
ful of  California  oysters.  Fold  the  smaller  end  over  the  larger  and 
skewer  with  small  skewer.  Dip  in  egg  and  bread  crumbs  and  bake 
or  fry,  whichever  is  preferred.  If  baked  put  pieces  of  butter  over  the 
top.  Serve  with  Sauce  Piquante. 

Fish  Baked  with  Oil  and  Tomatoes.  Take  fish  of  suitable  size, 
prepare  as  before  directed,  put  in  a  fish  dish,  cover  with  olive  oil, 
then  spread  thickly  with  slices  of  tomatoes;  bake  till  skin  cracks. 
Serve  with  any  sauce  preferred,  garnish  with  slices  of  raw  tomatoes 
and  sliced  egg  and  parsley. 

Fish  Chowder.  Three  pounds  of  sliced  cod  or  haddock,  two  onions, 
six  potatoes,  one-half  pound  of  salt  pork,  one-half  teaspoon  of  pepper, 
two  teaspoons  of  salt,  four  pilot  crackers,  one  pint  of  milk.  Slice 


30  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

potatoes,  onions  and  pork.  Fry  out  pork  in  kettle,  add  one-third  of 
the  sliced  onion,  fry  brown.  Have  fish  cut  in  small  pieces,  put  a 
layer  in  the  kettle,  then  one  of  onion  and  potato  and  seasoning,  and  so 
on  until  all  is  used;  cover  with  boiling  water;  cook  three  quarters  of  an 
hour.  Heat  milk,  thicken  with  two  tablespoons  of  flour,  one  table- 
spoon of  butter;  when  cooked  pour  into  chowder.  Cover  pilot  bread 
with  cold  water  on  dish  in  which  chowder  is  to  be  served  and  set  in 
warm  place.  Pour  the  chowder  over  the  bread  and  serve. 

Fried  Fish.  Small  white  bate  and  sardines  fry  in  a  wire  basket, 
in  deep  fat  until  brown,  salt  and  pepper.  The  bones  can  be  easily 
removed  from  sardines.  Have  the  bones  removed  from  smelts  in 
market,  wash  and  wipe  dry,  squeeze  over  a  little  lemon  juice,  dip 
in  egg,  then  in  bread  crumbs,  corn  meal  or  flour;  fry  in  hot  salt  pork 
or  sweet  oil. 

Stuffed  Smelts.  Clean  and  bone  one-half  dozen  large  smelts  and 
season  with  salt,  stuff  with  oyster  forcemeat  two-thirds  full.  Roll 
them  in  melted  butter,  then  in  fine  bread  crumbs.  Bake  them  in  a 
hot  oven  in  a  shallow  pan  for  fifteen  minutes,  basting  once  with 
butter.  Serve  with  mushroom  sauce. 

Oyster  Forcemeat.  Chop  fine  one  dozen  large  oysters,  add  one 
pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs,  three  tablespoons  of  butter,  one  teaspoon 
of  salt,  one-half  teaspoon  of  cayenne,  one  teaspoon  of  minced  parsley, 
a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  one  tablespoon  of  lemon  juice,  three 
tablespoons  of  oyster  juice,  yolks  of  two  uncooked  eggs. 

Fish  a  la  Creme.  Take  any  nice,  firm  fish  from  which  the  bones 
have  been  removed.  Salt  and  pepper,  squeeze  over  a  little  lemon 
juice,  sprinkle  with  sweet  herbs,  let  stand  half  an  hour.  Remove 
the  stones  from  twelve  olives;  take  one  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs 
and  pour  over  them  one  tablespoon  of  melted  butter;  add  the  olives, 
season  and  stuff  the  fish,  and  sew.  Roll  up  in  a  piece  of  cheese 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKKKY  31 

cloth  and  boil  until  nearly  done.  A  fresh  codfish  weighing  five 
pounds  will  cook  in  fifteen  minutes.  Place  in  a  porcelain  fish  pan. 
Stir  into  a  pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs  two  tablespoons  of  parsley 
and  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice.  Cover  the  fish  two  inches  deep 
with  these  crumbs,  and  strew  thickly  with  bits  of  butter.  Fill  the 
pan  two-thirds  full  of  cream  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  a  golden 
In-own.  Serve  on  the  same  dish,  with  a  napkin  rolled  around  it. 
Onion  juice  may  be  obtained  by  placing  an  onion  in  a  lemon 
squeezer  kept  exclusively  for  this  purpose. 

Shell  Fish.  Such  shell  fish  as  mussels,  clams,  oysters,  etc.,  may 
be  thoroughly  scrubbed  with  a  brush  and  put  in  the  pot  without 
water,  with  a  clove  of  garlic  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  steamed 
until  the  shells  open.  Send  to  table  in  shells;  eat  with  hot  maitre 
d'hotel  butter,  or  hot  olive  oil,  seasoned,  and  lemon  juice  added. 

Pompano  en  Papillote.  This  delicious  fish  found  only  in  Cali- 
fornia waters,  is  so  rieli  and  tender,  it  needs  no  addition  but  season- 
ing. Cut  white  paper  a  little  longer  and  wider  than  the  fish. 
ilrease  with  butter,  put  in  the  fish,  fold  and  turn  over  the  ends. 
15 roil  or  saute.  Season,  sprinkle  over  a  few  drops  of  vinegar,  and 
bake  ten  minutes  in  oblong  paper  boxes. 

Fish  a  la  Russe.  Fish  weighing  about  four  pounds,  four  eggs, 
two  tablespoons  of  cheese,  little  nutmeg,  one  tablespoon  of  chopped 
parsley  and  seasoning,  one  pint  of  milk,  two  tablespoons  of  Parme- 
san cheese,  one  tablespoon  of  butter,  two  large  tablespoons  of  flour, 
one  tablespoon  of  anchovy  sauce,  one  lemon.  AVash  fish,  season, 
sprinkle  with  powdered  sweet  herbs,  and  juice  of  one-half  lemon,  let 
stand  one-half  hour.  Fold  in  a  piece  of  cheese  cloth,  place  in  boil- 
ing salted  water,  let  boil  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  then  take  it 
out  carefully  and  let  it  get  nearly  cold.  Have  ready  two  hard  boiled 
eggs  chopped  fine  and  the  parsley.  Put  milk  in  double  boiler,  when 
hot  add  1  uitter  and  flour  for  white  sauce,  which  should  be  quite 


32  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

stiff;  then  add  the  yolks  of  the  two  remaining  eggs,  and  the  anchovy 
sauce  and  grated  nutmeg.  Put  fish  into  the  dish  in  which  it  is  to 
be  served,  pour  over  it  the  sauce,  sprinkle  over  the  top  the  chopped 
eggs  and  the  grated  cheese,  put  in  moderate  oven  and  bake  ten  min- 
utes. Garnish  with  slices  of  lemon. 

Baked  Fish.  Clean,  wipe  and  dry,  rub  with  salt,  fill  with  stuff- 
ing, sew  edges  together.  Put  narrow  strips  of  fat  salt  pork  over  the 
fish  and  in  pan  under  fish.  Place  fish  upright  in  pan,  curl  by  put- 
ting a  skewer  through  tail,  body  and  head,  shaped  like  an  S,  tie 
with  a  string.  Serve  with  celery  or  any  sauce  preferred. 

Dry  Stuffing  for  Fish.  One  and  one-half  cups  of  stale  bread 
crumbs,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoon  of  pepper,  one 
teaspoon  each  of  chopped  parsley,  onion,  cucumber  pickles,  olives 
and  capers,  and  one  tablespoon  of  butter.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  hot 
saucepan,  fry  the  onions  a  golden  brown;  mix  the  other  ingredients 
with  the  bread  crumbs.  Stir  all  together  and  stuff  the  fish. 

Fish  Chowder.  Have  two  pounds  of  any  white  fish  cut  in  thin 
slices.  Slice  six  potatoes  and  four  onions.  Put  in  a  kettle  six 
slices  of  salt  pork,  fry  brown.  Put  in  a  layer  of  potatoes,  layer  of 
fish,  layer  of  onions,  season,  and  so  on  till  all  is  used.  Cover  with 
boiling  water;  cook  till  potatoes  are  done.  Add  a  cup  of  cream. 
Have  four  pilot  crackers,  soaked  in  cold  water,  on  a  hot  platter; 
pour  over  the  chowder,  or  put  them  round  the  edges  of  the  pot  while 
the  chowder  is  cooking. 

Clam  Chowder.  Is  made  as  above,  using  the  small  clams,  or 
chopping  the  large  ones. 

Salmon  Pudding.  Mix  one  can  of  salmon,  pouring  off  the 
liquor.  Add  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  three  tablespoons  of  melted  but- 
ter, salt,  pepper,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  one-half  cup  of  stale  bread 
crumbs,  three  beaten  eggs,  half  cup  of  cream.  Put  in  a  buttered 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  33 

mould,  set  in  pan  of  hot  water,  cover;  steam  in  oven  one  hour, 
filling  with  boiling  water  as  it  evaporates.  Turn  out;  serve  with 
any  sauce  preferred. 

Salt  Fish  Balls.  One  pint  of  chopped  salt  fish,  one  pint  of  cold 
chopped  potatoes,  one-half  cup  of  milk,  two  tablespoons  of  butter, 
one-half  teaspoon  of  white  pepper,  two  eggs.  Pick  the  bones  from 
the  fish,  cover  with  boiling  water,  simmer  one  hour.  If  the  fish  is 
very  salt  pour  off  the  first  water  and  cover  again  with  boiling  water. 
(Eastern  salt  fish  will  cook  much  quicker  than  California  salt  fish.) 
Have  fish  and  potatoes  chopped  fine,  add  the  pepper  and  one  beaten 
egg;  heat  the  milk,  melt  the  butter  in  it,  add  to  the  fish  and  pota- 
toes; if  not  soft  enough  add  more  milk.  Make  into  small  flat  cakes 
an  inch  thick,  beat  the  other  egg,  slightly  dip  the  fish  balls  into  the 
egg,  and  fry  in  deep  fat,  take  out,  drain  on  butcher's  paper,  send  to 
table  on  hot  napkin.  Or  fry  in  hot  drippings  or  butter  in  a  frying 
pan,  turn  and  brown  on  both  sides. 

Hash  Salt  Fish.  Is  prepared  as  above,  omitting  the  egg.  Fry 
two  slices  of  salt  pork  in  a  frying  pan,  put  in  the  hashed  fish  and 
potato,  heat  well,  make  into  an  oblong  shape,  brown  and  turn  on  a 
hot  platter. 

Broiled  Salt  Fish.  Pull  off  strips  of  salt  fish,  soak  in  water  over 
night,  dry  in  a  cloth,  broil.  Cover  with  melted  butter. 


EGGS 


Eggs  a  la  Patti.  Take  stale  bread,  about  half  an  inch  thick,  cut 
in  large  rounds  with  biscuit  cutter,  then  cut  out  the  center  with  a 
smaller  cutter.  Butter  a  baking-pan,  lay  in  the  rings,  cover  with 
milk  or  cream,  let  it  soak  until  soft,  pour  off  the  milk  and  put  a  raw 
egg  into  the  middle  of  each  ring.  Season ;  put  a  teaspoon  of  butter 
on  each  egg.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  the  whites  are  set.  Serve 
on  hot  plates;  garnish  with  watercress. 

Eggs  a  la  Duchesse.  Six  eggs,  four  tablespoons  of  cheese,  three 
tablespoons  of  butter,  slices  of  thin  toast.  Spread  butter  on  the  dish 
in  which  they  will  be  served,  then  lay  in  the  cheese,  cut  thin.  Sea- 
son, and  add  a  little  cayenne,  then  break  the  eggs  in  carefully,  so  as 
not  to  break;  grate  over  them  a  little  nutmeg,  then  two  tablespoons 
of  cheese.  Bake  ten  minutes. 

Soft  Boiled  Eggs.  Put  the  eggs  into  a  saucepan ;  cover  with 
boiling  water,  and  let  them  stand  from  six  to  ten  minutes  where  the 
water  will  keep  hot  (180°),  but  not  boiling.  If  cooked  in  boiling 
water,  cook  from  three  to  five  minutes. 

Hard  Boiled  Eggs.  Cook  them  forty  minutes  in  water  just  bub- 
ling.  The  yolk  of  an  egg  cooked  ten  minutes  in  rapidly  boiling 
water  is  tough  and  indigestible;  cooked  forty  minutes  it  is  dry, 
mealy  and  easily  digested. 

Omelette.  Two  eggs,  two  tablespoons  of  milk,  one  saltspoon  of 
salt,  one  saltspoon  of  pepper.  Beat  yolks  of  eggs  until  light  colored 

34 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  35 

and  thick;  add  milk,  salt  and  pepper.  Beat  the  whites  until  stiff 
and  dry.  Cut  and  fold  them  lightly  into  the  yolks.  When  the 
spider  is  hot  rub  it  around  the  edge  with  one  teaspoon  of  butter  on 
a  broad  knife;  let  the  butter  run  all  over  the  pan  and  turn  in  the 
omelette  quickly,  and  spread  it  evenly  in  the  pan.  Cook  carefully 
till  slightly  browned  underneath.  Turn  over.  Serve  quickly. 

French  Omelette.  Beat  four  eggs  till  well  broken,  but  not  light, 
add  two  tablespoons  of  milk,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt.  Have  your 
pan  heated,  put  in  one  tablespoon  of  butter.  Pour  in  egg  mixture. 
Shake  the  pan  until  the  whole  mass  is  as  thick  as  soft  custard.  Let 
it  rest  for  five  seconds;  roll  up.  Before  rolling  up,  if  you  wish  add 
a  few  cooked  oysters,  or  chopped  cooked  ham,  parsley  or  cheese. 

Egg  Nests  on  Toast.  Six  eggs,  six  small  pieces  of  toast,  one 
and  one-half  tablespoons  of  butter,  one  half  teaspoon  of  salt.  Sep- 
arate the  eggs-,  putting  the  whites  in  a  bowl,  and  leaving  the  yolks 
in  the  half  shells.  Set  the  shells  in  a  pan  of  meal  to  keep  upright. 
Add  salt  to  the  whites  and  beat  until  stiff.  Toast  bread,  dip  edges 
into  hot  water,  butter,  and  pile  the  white  on  each  slice.  Make  a 
depression  in  the  center  of  each  mound,  put  one-quarter  teaspoon  of 
butter  in  each,  drop  yolks  in  the  hollows.  Place  in  hot  oven  until 
firm  and  slightly  brown. 

Stuffed  Eggs.  Cut  off  the  ends  of  hard-boiled  eggs  so  that  they 
will  stand;  then  halve  them  and  remove  the  yolks  carefully;  mash 
with  a  fork,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  few  drops  of  olive 
oil  to  moisten,  and  a  little  chopped  parsley.  To  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  use  one  teaspoon  of  vinegar.  Fill  the  whites  of  the  eggs  with 
this  paste.  Set  in  a  dish  and  pour  around  them  cream  sauce.  For 
picnic  put  the  eggs  together  and  wrap  in  soft  paper. 


MEATS 


How  to  Wash  Meat.  Have  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth,  wash  the 
meat  with  it,  dipping  in  cold  water. 

A  Bad  Habit.  Some  people  have  a  habit  of  punching  their 
fingers  into  a  piece  of  beef  to  see  if  it  is  tender,  which  is  useless  and 
very  annoying  to  the  butcher,  as  it  spoils  the  appearance  of  the 
piece. 

Veal  and  pork  should  be  eaten  soon  after  being  killed,  but  beef  or 
mutton  is  much  improved  by  keeping  it  in  a  cool,  dry  place  until  it 
"  ripens."  The  length  of  time  required  depends  on  the  season  and 
the  weather;  in  summer  from  a  week  to  ten  days,  in  a  nice  chest, 
and  in  winter  as  long,  perhaps,  as  fourteen  days. 

Good  beef  should  have  a  dark  red  color  when  first  cut,  changing 
to  a  brighter  red  or  cherry  color,  after  a  few  moments  exposure  to 
the  air.  This  is  probably  due  to  the  juices  coming  to  the  surface.  A 
bluish,  or  dull  dark  red  color  indicates  poor  beef.  It  should  look 
juicy,  be  smooth-grained  and  velvety  to  the  touch,  and  somewhat 
firm  and  elastic.  The  bones  and  sinews  should  be  comparatively 
small.  The  pale,  moist  muscle  marks  the  young  animal;  a  some- 
what darker  color,  older  ones. 

Liquids  take  the  form  of  vapor  at  the  steam  or  boiling  point.  It 
is  incorrect  to  say  that  meat  is  boiling,  or  rice  is  boiling,  as  solids 
cannot  boil.  Boiling,  therefore,  is  cooking  in  boiling  liquid.  Water 
boils  when  the  bubbles  rise  to  the  surface,  and  steam  is  thrown  off 
at  212°.  If  the  fire  is  fierce,  so  that  these  bubbles  are  formed  and 
expelled  rapidly,  and  the  water  boils  over,  the  water  is  no  hotter;  it 

36 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  37 

simply  boils  away,  and  has  to  be  ofterier  replenished.  It  is  a  waste 
of  time,  fuel  and  materials  to  keep  water  boiling  at  such  a  galloping 
rate.  Water  boils  at  a  higher  temperature  when  there  is  salt  added. 
Fresh  water  boils  at  212°,  salt  water  at  224°.  If  we  put  salt  in  the 
water,  in  the  lower  part  of  a  double  boiler,  a  greater  degree  of  heat 
is  obtained  by  which  to  cook  the  articles  on  top.  In  cooking  meat, 
fish  or  vegetables  in  water  we  must  remember  these  two  facts:  Cold 
water  draws  out  the  albuminous  juices;  boiling  water  protects  them. 
Meats  are  cooked  in  cold  water  to  have  all  the  nutriment  in  the 
water,  such  as  beef  tea,  soups,  etc.,  and  meats  are  cooked  in  hot 
water  to  have  part  of  the  juices  in  the  meat  and  part  in  the  water, 
such  as  stews,  fricasses,  etc.  Meats  are  cooked  in  boiling  water  to 
retain  their  juices. 

Braizing,  Braizing  is  a  form  of  stewing,  done  usually  in  a  braiz- 
ing pan  with  coals,  or  any  close  covered  granite  pan  will  do.  May 
be  cooked  in  the  oven  or  on  top  of  stove. 

Roasting  Meats.  Meat  must  be  wiped  off  with  a  wet  cloth,  then 
salted,  peppered  and  dredged  with  flour;  put  into  a  meat  pan, 
then  in  a  hot  oven;  this  will  sear  the  outside  and  protect  the  juices. 
After  ten  minutes  baste  frequently;  when  necessary  to  turn,  do  not 
put  a  fork  into  the  meat,  as  that  allows  the  juices  to  escape.  A  little 
hot  water  may  be  put  into  the  pan  after  half  an  hour  to  baste  with. 
Time  for  roasting  see  rules. 

Gravy  for  Roast  Meat.  Remove  meat,  when  cooked,  to  a  hot 
platter;  set  in  the  oven.  Pour  from  the  pan  nearly  all  the  grease, 
add  a  little  hot  water,  set  on  the  stove,  blend  browned  flour  and 
water,  stir  into  the  gravy,  and  season  to  taste.  Strain. 

Veal.  The  breast,  loin  and  fillet  (a  thick  piece  from  upper  part 
of  the  leg)  are  the  best  pieces  for  roasting.  Dredge  with  salt,  pep- 


38  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

per,  and  flour,  put  strips  of  fat  pork  over  the  top.  and  bake  accor- 
ding to  directions.  Cover  with  paper  to  keep  from  burning.  Serve 
with  horse-radish  or  tomato  sauce. 

Cold  Veal.  Cut  cold  veal  into  slices,  arrange  tastefully  on  a  dish 
and  make  a  jelly  as  follows:  Take  bones  that  have  been  removed 
from  fillet,  with  any  scraps  of  veal  that  may  be  left  from  roast,  etc., 
add  a  bouquet,  a  few  pepper  corns,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  few  cloves; 
cover  with  water;  cook  till  meat  is  in  shreds,  about  seven  hours; 
strain,  cool.  When  cold  this  should  be  a  firm  jelly.  Garnish  the 
cold  meat  with  the  jelly  cut  in  fancy  shapes,  with  French  cutter 
and  slices  of  lemon. 

How  to  Dress  Poultry.  Cut  off  the  legs  at  the  first  joint,  cut  out 
the  oil  bag  at  the  end  of  the  tail,  cut  off  the  head,  put  back  the  skin 
and  take  out  the  windpipe  and  crop,  being  careful  not  to  break  it. 
Make  an  incision  below  the  breast-bone,  insert  the  hand  and  remove 
all  the  inside  of  the  fowl.  The  lungs  lie  between  the  ribs.  Wash 
the  fowl  inside  carefully  with  a  cloth.  With  a  sharp  knife  take  out 
all  the  pin-feathers  and  singe  over  burning  brown  paper.  Cut  the 
gizzard  through  the  thick  part  and  remove  the  inner  lining  without 
breaking.  Put  the  liver,  gizzard  and  heart  to  one  side.  Always 
wash  with  a  cloth.  If  too  much  water  is  used  in  washing  poultry  it 
will  draw  out  the  juices,  and  cause  it  to  be  tough  and  indigestible. 
These  directions  apply  to  all  fowl. 

Roast  Fowl.  Prepare  fowl  according  to  directions.  Stuff  the 
crop  till  of  a  good  shape,  put  the  remainder  into  body  of  fowl  and 
sew.  Have  the  neck  cut  off,  but  not  skin,  then  tie  the  loose  skin 
with  cord,  put  a  skewer  through  the  fleshy  part  of  the  legs,  another 
through  the  wings,  bring  the  cord  towards  the  back,  then  over  the 
skewers,  cross  string,  bring  back  to  the  neck,  then  tie  it  tightly. 
This  is  trussing.  (If  you  have  not  skewers,  use  strings.)  Salt, 
pepper  and  dredge  the  fowl  with  flour;  melt  two  tablespoons  of 
butter  and  pour  over,  putting  bits  of  butter  under  each  thigh ;  baste 


PROGRKSSIVK    COOKERY  39 

often ;  after  a  half  hour  add  a  little  hot  water  to  the  pan.     Cook  in 
moderate  oven  at  first  and  increase  the  heat. 

Gravy.  Take  giblets,  heart  and  liver,  put  in  boiling  salted  water, 
rook  until  tender.  Remove  and  chop  fine,  add  two  tablespoons  flour 
to  the  chopped  giblets;  remove  fowl  to  hot  platter  set  in  the  oven 
to  keep  hot,  strain  the  gravy  into  a  saucepan,  add  the  chopped  gib- 
lets and  flour,  reduce  with  hot  water,  cook  five  minutes. 

Stuffing.  One  pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs,  moisten  with  one-half 
cup  of  melted  butter,  season  highly  with  salt,  pepper  and  sweet 
herbs;  if  you  like,  use  less  butter  and  a  little  sausage  meat. 

Chestnut  Stuffing.  One  good  shalot,  chopped  fine,  one  pint  or 
more  of  stale  bread  crumbs,  one  teaspoon  of  thyme,  one  teaspoon  of 
chopped  parsley,  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  sausage  meat,  one  tea- 
spoon of  pepper,  twenty-four  cooked  chestnuts,  small,  two  teaspoons 
of  chopped  mushrooms.  Take  twelve  of  the  chestnuts  and  pound 
well.  Heat  a  tablespoon  of  butter,  add  shalot,  sausage  meat,  mush- 
rooms, then  the  pounded  chestnuts,  season ;  let  it  just  come  to  a 
boil,  add  the  bread,  now  the  twelve  whole  chestnuts,  being  careful 
not  to  break. 

Game.  Draw  the  wild  fowl,  wash  quickly  in  cold  water.  Put 
two  tablespoons  of  chopped  onion  and  one  cup  of  chopped  celery 
(the  green  stalks  will  do),  into  the  body  of  the  fowl.  Truss  and 
dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour,  roast  in  a  hot  oven,  with  a  little 
water  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Baste  often;  cook  to  taste.  Serve 
with  bread  sauce,  currant  jelly  and  boiled  onions. 

Saddle  of  Venison,  Larded.  Procure  a  saddle  of  a  small  veni- 
son, weighing  about  five  pounds,  pare  it  neatly,  remove  the  sinews 
from  the  surface  and  lard  it  with  a  larding  needle  as  finely  as  pos- 
sible, tie  it  around  three  times.  Put  in  a  roasting  pan  one  sliced 


40  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

onion,  one  sliced  carrot;  lay  in  the  saddle,  season  with  salt,  spread 
one-half  ounce  of  butter  over  it,  put  into  a  brisk  oven  and  roast 
forty  minutes,  basting  frequently  with  its  own  gravy.  Untie, 
arrange  neatly  on  a  hot  dish ;  pour  into  the  pan  a  glass  of  Madeira 
wine  and  a  gill  of  white  broth ;  let  come  to  a  boil  on  stove,  skim  the 
fat  off  the  gravy,  strain  over  the  saddle.  Serve  with  hot  currant 

jelly- 

Venison.  Select  young  venison.  If  fresh  let  it  hang  in  a  dry,  airy 
place  several  days  before  using.  Wipe  with  a  wet  cloth,  trim  neat- 
ly, rub  juice  of  lemon  well  into  it,  sprinkle  with  salt,  lay  in  drip- 
ping pan,  make  a  paste  of  flour  and  water,  spread  thickly  over 
venison,  put  down  to  roast  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound,  put  a  little 
water  in  pan  %  moisten  paste  occasionally  to  keep  from  cracking. 
About  one-half  hour  before  serving  remove  the  paste  and  baste  every 
few  minutes  with  butter  and  hot  water  until  it  froths  all  over. 
Then  remove  to  a  hot  platter.  The  oven  at  first  should  be  of  mod- 
erate heat,  increasing  the  heat  the  last  half  hour.  Make  gravy  by 
pouring  one  and  one-half  cups  of  stock  into  the  pan,  thicken  with 
browned  flour,  season,  add  two  tablespoons  of  currant  jelly.  A 
bouquet  laid  in  pan  while  roasting  is  an  improvement. 

Broiled  Venison  Steaks.  Rub  into  steaks,  cut  from  the  leg,  a 
seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  little  grated  nutmeg,  one  tablespoon  of  oil ; 
wrap  in  buttered  paper  and  broil  over  a  quick  fire.  They  may  also 
be  larded  with  salt  pork,  then  broiled  with  or  without  being  envel- 
oped in  paper.  When  dished  serve  with  a  maitre-d'hotel  butter. 

Maitre-d' hotel  Butter.  One-quarter  cup  of  butter,  one-half  tea- 
spoon of  salt,  one-half  saltspoon  of  pepper,  one  tablespoon  of  chopped 
parsley,  one  tablespoon  of  lemon  juice.  Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream, 
add  salt,  pepper,  parsley  and  lemon  juice.  Spread  on  hot  steaks,  etc. 

Broiling:     Broil  over  clear  coals.    Heat  your  broiler,  put  on  meat 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  41 

or  fowl,  turn  quickly  to  prevent  escape  of  juices.  Meat  should  be 
broiled  long  enough  to  start  the  flow  of  the  juices ;  the  meat  will 
spring  up  instantly  when  pressed  with  a  knife;  when  it  ceases  to  do 
so  the  juices  begin  to  evaporate  and  the  meat  shrinks.  \Vhen 
cooked  according  to  taste,  remove  to  hot  platter,  sprinkle  on  both 
sides  with  pepper,  salt  and  bits  of  butter. 

Sauteing  or  Pan-frying.  Have  pan  sissing  hot,  grease  with  a 
little  suet.  Put  on  your  meat,  turn  in  one  minute,  sear  the  other 
side.  Cook  rare  or  well  done  as  preferred ;  salt,  pepper  and  butter 
when  taken  up.  Serve  very  hot. 

Beef  Tea.  Cut  lean,  juicy,  raw  beef  into  quarter-inch  dice. 
Cover  with  cold  water;  add  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt  to  every  cup  of 
water.  Press  the  meat  often,  and  after  an  hour  squeeze  out  all  the 
juice.  Heat  the  juice;  stir  it  constantly,  and  serve  as  soon  as  it 
looks  thick  and  is  hot. 

Broiling  in  Paper.  Take  trimmed  mutton  chops  and  lay  on 
doubled  firm  white  paper,  and  cut  the  shape  of  the  chops,  allowing 
one  inch  for  a  margin.  Open  the  paper,  oil  or  grease  them,  place  a 
chop  inside  each  paper,  salt  and  pepper  them,  fold  over  the  edge. 
Broil,  turning  quickly  and  often,  four  or  five  minutes.  Serve  in 
the  papers. 

Mutton  Chops  or  Veal  Cutlets  Breaded.  Trim,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  in  crumbs,  egg  and  crumbs  again.  Put 
butter  in  a  hot  frying-pan;  put  in  the  chops,  turn  quickly,  and 
brown  on  both  sides,  then  cook  as  preferred.  Wind  paper  ruffles 
around  the  bones.  Serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Fillet  of  Mutton  Chops.  Cut  the  meat  from  the  bone,  flatten 
the  chops,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper;  melt  a  tablespoon  of  butter, 
add  to  it  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  dip  in  the  chops,  roll  up  and 


42  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

skewer  with  tooth-picks;  dip  in  bread  crumbs,  egg  and  bread  crumbs 
again.  Fry  in  boiling  lard  about  four  minutes.  Serve  with  any 
sauce  preferred. 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton.  Put  into  boiling  salted  water,  enough 
to'nearly  cover,  with  thickest  part  down;  keep  at  boiling  point  ten 
minutes,  then  simmer.  A  small  leg  of  mutton  will  cook  rare  in 
from  one  and  a  half  to  two  hours;  well  done  in  three  hours.  Serve 
with  caper  sauce. 

Boiled  Chicken.  Stuff  with  oysters.  Cook  the  same  as  boiled 
mutton. 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton  a  la  Francaise.  Have  the  marrow 
removed  from  the  bone  of  a  leg  of  mutton.  Put  into  the  cavity  a 
few  cloves  and  garlic.  Let  stand  for  a  week  or  so.  Remove  the 
garlic  and  boil  as  before  directed. 

Boiled  Ham.  If  very  salt,  soak  overnight ;  otherwise,  soak  two 
hours  in  cold  water.  Scrub  well,  trim  off  the  black  part,  cover  with 
boiling  water.  Simmer,  allowing  one-half  hour  for  every  pound. 
If  ham  is  allowed  to  boil  it  hardens  it.  When  cooked  leave  in  the 
water  till  nearly  cold;  then  remove,  pull  off  the  skin,  put  into  the 
oven  for  one  hour,  baste  often  with  vinegar.  Remove  from  oven. 
Cover  with  sugar  and  dried  bread  crumbs,  return  to  the  oven,  and 
when  a  golden  brown,  dish.  Or  stick  cloves  into  the  ham  in  fancy 
shapes,  then  wet  your  finger,  and  deep  into  red  pepper  and  make  a 
round  spot,  and  alternate  with  black  pepper.  If  sent  to  the  table 
hot,  serve  with  brown  sauce,  flavored  with  one-half  glass  of  cham- 
pagne, or  currant  jelly,  or  juice  of  one-half  lemon.  A  very  nice  way 
is  to  cook  a  ham  a  little  longer,  and  remove  the  bone  carefully.  For 
those  who  care  for  it,  add  a  bottle  of  white  wine  or  champagne  while 
simmering. 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  43 

Corned  Beef.  Cover  with  boiling  water,  simmer,  allowing  one- 
half  hour  to  the  pound;  as  scum  rises,  remove.  If  to  be  eaten  cold 
add  a  few  whole  spices  to  the  water  while  cooking.  If  a  rib  piece 
when  the  bones  loosen,  remove  from  the  pot,  take  out  the  bones, 
cover  and  press  with  a  weight. 

Boiled  Chicken.  Clean,  stuff  a  chicken.  Put  in  boiling  water  a 
teaspoon  of  salt,  one-half  a  carrot,  one  onion,  two  stalks  of  celery, 
six  pepper  corns,  a  bay  leaf,  sprig  of  thyme  and  parsley,  salt;  add 
the  chicken,  simmer  one  hour  or  till  tender.  Serve  with  any  sauce 
preferred. 

Hash  a  la  Francaise.  Have  cooked  beef  chopped  rather  fine. 
Put  a  piece  of  butter,  the  size  of  an  egg,  in  hot  stew  pan  (this  is  for 
one  pint  of  chopped  meat);  add  two  chopped  onions;  when  cooked 
add  one  tablespoon  of  flour,  one-half  glass  of  white  wine,  a  cup  of 
broth,  a  little  table  sauce,  tomato  or  Worcestershire,  salt  and  pepper, 
a  grating  of  nutmeg;  add  the  chopped  meat,  leave  in  fifteen  min- 
utes to  heat,  but  do  not  boil.  Dish  it,  pour  on  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice  or  vinegar  and  serve.  Garnish  with  points  of  toast. 

Veal  cut  in  slices  cooked  by  foregoing  recipe  is  very  nice. 

Hash.  One  cup  of  cooked  meat  chopped  fine,  two  cups  of  hot 
mashed  potatoes,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-half  saltspoon  of 
pepper.  Mix  until  smooth.  Put  two  or  three  tablespoons  of  hot 
water  into  a  spider.  Melt  one  tablespoon  of  butter  or  drippings. 
Put  in  the  hash  and  let  it  simmer  slowly  until  the  water  is  absorbed 
ami  a  brown  crust  is  formed.  Do  not  stir.  Fold  over,  turn  on  a 
hot  platter. 

Hashed  Corned  Beef.  To  one  pint  of  chopped  meat  add  one 
pint  of  cold  chopped  potatoes,  a  saltspoon  of  mustard,  one  tea- 
spoon of  white  pepper.  Have  in  frying  pan  a  tablespoon  of  hot 
drippings,  put  in  the  hash,  add  two  tablespoons  of  hot  water,  a  table- 


44  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

spoon  of  butter.  More  water  may  be  added  if  needed,  but  not  too 
much.  Stir  and  heat  well,  form  an  oblong  shape,  brown  on  one 
side,  run  a  knife  under  it  to  keep  it  from  sticking  to  frying  pan. 
Turn  on  a  hot  platter.  If  hashes  are  put  in  covered  dishes  it  steams 
them  and  makes  them  soggy.  If  you  have  any  vegetables  left 
from  a  corned  beef  dinner  chop  them  together,  warm  the  same  way 
as  the  corned  beef  hash,  omitting  the  water,  as  the  vegetables  are 
generally  moist  enough. 

Drippings.  Save  any  pieces  of  fat  (except  mutton  fat) ,  cut  into 
one-half  inch  cubes,  put  in  a  pan,  in  the  oven,  and  cook  slowly, 
until  the  scraps  are  a  light  brown.  When  slightly  cooled  strain  and 
set  it  away.  Always  clarify  and  strain  fat  after  being  used  for 
frying. 

Minced  Meat  on  Toast.  Remove  the  fat  and  gristle  from  the 
veal  and  chop  fine.  To  one  cup  of  meat  add  one  saltspoon  of  salt,  a 
speck  of  pepper,  one-half  cup  of  thickened  gravy.  Heat  in  saucepan 
and  pour  over  buttered  toast.  Serve  hot. 

Cottage  Pie.  Chop  cold  meat  very  fine.  Mash  some  potatoes. 
To  every  cup  of  meat  add  one  saltspoon  of  salt,  one-half  saltspoon  of 
pepper,  a  speck  of  nutmeg,  one-half  cup  of  gravy  or  stock,  and  a 
little  finely  chopped  onion.  Put  the  meat,  when  seasoned,  in  a 
baking  dish,  cover  it  with  mashed  potatoes,  and  bake  a  golden 
brown. 

Scalloped  Mutton.  Cut  cold  mutton  into  thin  slices,  removing 
all  the  fat  and  gristle.  Put  a  layer  of  bread  crumbs  on  the  bot- 
tom of  a  shallow  baking  dish,  then  a  layer  of  mutton,  then  a 
layer  of  cooked  macaroni,  then  gravy.  Moisten  one-third  of  a  cup 
of  crumbs  in  one  tablespoon  of  melted  butter,  spread  over  the  top, 
bake  until  a  nice  brown.  Season  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Brown  Beef  Stew.  Order  skirt  of  beef  a  few  days  before  needed ; 
the  skirt  is  tender  and  juicy;  remove  skin,  and  cut  in  slices.  Heat 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY  45 

one  tablespoon  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  one  chopped  onion,  one 
slice  of  carrot,  one  of  turnip,  few  cloves  and  bouquet;  add  sliced 
meat  and  fry  brown.  Then  add  hot  water,  cook  until  tender,  be 
careful  not  to  cook  too  long,  so  as  to  retain  the  juices,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  remove  meat,  strain  gravy,  return  to  fire  and  boil 
up.  Brown  one  tablespoon  of  butter  or  drippings,  add  two  table- 
spoons of  browned  flour,  one  tablespoon  of  sherry  wine,  one  table- 
spoon of  tomato  catsup,  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Put  back  meat, 
heat  thoroughly;  serve  with  macaroni,  or  dumplings,  heaped  around 
the  edge  of  deep  platter. 

Hamburg  Steak.  Two  pounds  of  chopped  beef  or  Hamburg 
steak,  one-half  cup  of  bread  crumbs,  one  cup  of  milk,  two  eggs,  two 
teaspoons  of  salt,  one  teaspoon  of  pepper,  three  slices  of  salt  pork. 
Season  the  meat,  then  add  the  milk,  beaten  eggs,  nearly  all  the  bread 
crumbs,  put  into  a  buttered  dish,  shape  and  sprinkle  with  the 
crumbs,  and  lay  on  the  slices  of  pork.  Cover  the  dish  and  bake  ten 
minutes;  then  remove  the  cover  and  bake  fifteen  minutes  longer. 

Fried  Liver.  Have  calf's  liver  sliced  thin.  Trim  the  tough  skin 
from  the  edges.  Soak  in  cold  water  five  minutes,  and  wipe.  Fry 
out  salt  pork,  put  in  the  slices  of  liver,  salt  and  pepper  and  sprinkle 
with  powdered  sage.  Cook  three  minutes  and  turn.  Season  as 
before.  Turn  often,  cook  from  seven  to  ten  minutes.  Put  into  a 
hot  dish  and  spread  with  butter. 

Broiled  Liver.     Prepare  the  liver  as  above,  and  broil. 

Liver  au  Lit.  Clean  the  livers  from  two  or  three  fowls  and  cut 
into  several  pieces;  or  you  may  use  calf's  liver  cut  into  small  slices. 
Put  a  layer  of  tomatoes  in  a  dish,  then  the  liver,  then  sliced  onion, 
and  tomatoes  on  the  top.  Season  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Cover  and  bake  slowly  for  about  half  an  hour. 

Dumplings  for  Stews.  Make  dumplings  for  stews  the  same  as 
baking  powder  biscuit,  only  a  little  softer.  Drop  from  a  wet  table- 
spoon into  the  stew;  boil  twenty  minutes. 


SAUCES 


Bechamel,  or  White  Sauce.  One  cup  of  cream,  one  cup  of  white 
stock  or  one  pint  of  cream,  two  tablespoons  of  butter,  two  heaping 
tablespoons  of  flour,  season  to  taste.  Heat  cream  over  hot  water. 
Put  butter  in  hot  granite  saucepan,  stir  till  it  melts  or  bubbles, 
add  dry  flour,  stir  quickly  with  the  ball  of  a  spoon  until  well 
mixed,  pour  over  a  part  of  the  cream,  stir  till  it  thickens,  add  the 
remaining  stock  or  cream,  put  back  into  double  boiler  and  cook  five 
minutes.  Should  be  smooth,  if  not,  strain.  This  way  of  cooking 
butter  gives  a  much  better  flavor  than  blending  the  flour  and  but- 
ter. If  you  cannot  get  cream  use  milk  and  an  extra  tablespoon  of 
butter.  If  too  thick  add  more  stock  or  cream,  if  too  thin,  more 
flour. 

Drawn  Butter  (Plain.)  Is  made  the  same  as  cream  sauce, 
using  hot  water  instead  of  cream,  and  four  tablespoons  of  butter. 
Richer  drawn  butter  may  be  made  by  adding  the  yolks  of  two  eggs. 

Hollandaise  Sauce.  May  be  made  of  milk,  or  cream,  or  stock, 
one-half  cup  of  butter,  yolks  of  three  eggs,  juice  of  one-half  lemon, 
salt,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  one  cup  of  boiling  stock,  cream  or  milk. 
Rub  butter  to  a  cream,  add  yolks,  then  lemon  juice  and  seasoning. 
Beat  well  about  five  minutes,  add  boiling  liquid,  beat  rapidly  and 
serve.  Should  be  as  thick  as  custard. 

Hollandaise  Sauce.  Melt  over  hot  water  a  half  cup  of  butter, 
add  the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs,  beat  well  till  thick.  Season 

46 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  47 

with  salt  and  cayenne  and  stir  in  gradually  two  tablespoons  of 
lemon  juice  and  one-half  cup  of  boiling  water.  If  the  butter  more 
than  melts  it  will  curdle. 

Egg  Sauce.  Make  cream  or  milk  or  drawn  butter  sauce,  and 
add  three  hard  boiled  eggs  chopped. 

Cream  Mushroom  Sauce.  Make  a  cream  sauce.  Take  one 
tablespoon  of  the  butter,  add  one  cup  of  chopped  mushrooms,  cook 
ten  minutes  or  till  soft.  Add  to  the  cream  or  milk  sauce. 

Oyster  Sauce.  Heat  one  pint  of  fresh  oysters  to  the  boiling 
point  in  their  own  liquor.  Remove  from  fire,  drain  liquor  into 
another  pan.  Beat  to  a  cream  one-third  cup  of  butter,  three  table- 
spoons of  flour,  add  to  oyster  juice  one  cup  of  milk,  heat  to  boiling, 
stir  in  flour  and  butter.  Cook  fifteen  minutes,  season  and  add 
oysters,  then  one  teaspoon  of  lemon  juice.  For  boiled  fish,  turkey 
or  chicken. 

Celery  Sauce  (for  Boiled  Fowl.)  Cook  one  cup  of  white  part  of 
celery,  cut  fine,  in  enough  water  to  cover;  cook  until  tender,  drain 
off  water;  if  not  one  pint  add  water  enough  to  make  that  quantity. 
Melt  two  tablespoons  of  butter,  add  two  of  flour,  and  stir  in  the 
hot  liquor,  cook,  and  add  the  cooked  celery.  Season. 

Sauce  Robert.  To  one  cup  of  brown  sauce  add  one  teaspoon  of 
sugar,  one  of  mustard,  one  of  vinegar. 

Tomato  Sauce.  Melt  one  tablespoon  of  t butter,  fry  in  it  one 
tablespoon  of  chopped  onion  till  yellow,  add  one  tablespoon  of  flour, 
pour  gradually  over  one  cup  of  hot  stock,  add  one-half  cup  of  cooked 
strained  tomato.  Season. 

Brown  Mushroom  Sauce.  To  one  cup  of  brown  sauce  add  one 
cup  of  chopped  mushrooms,  first  cooked  in  one  tablespoon  of  butter. 


48  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Currant  Jelly  Sauce.  Make  brown  sauce,  add  two-thirds  of  a 
cup  of  currant  jelly.  When  melted,  strain.  Serve  very  hot. 

Madeira  or  Port  Wine  Sauce.  One-half  cup  of  port,  one  glass  of 
melted  currant  jelly,  one  tablespoon  of  lemon  juice,  one  pint  of 
stock,  two  tablespoons  of  butter  or  drippings.  Cook  same  as  for 
brown  sauce. 

Spanish  Sauce.  One  pint  of  consomme,  three  tablespoons  of 
gelatine,  four  of  flour,  four  of  butter,  two  of  chopped  onion,  carrot 
and  celery,  lean  ham,  bay  leaf,  sprig  of  parsley,  three  cloves,  bit  of 
mace,  salt  and  pepper.  Soak  gelatine  in  one-half  cup  of  consomme 
until  soft,  cook  butter  and  vegetables,  pour  together,  don't  burn, 
add  flour,  brown,  stirring  all  the  while,  add  the  consomme,  spices 
and  herbs,  stand  back  and  simmer  half  an  hour;  add  the  soaked 
gelatine,  cook  again;  strain.  (If  fat  arises,  skim  off.)  Serve  with 
chops. 

Bread  Sauce  for  Game.  One  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs.  Put  in 
double  boiler,  with  a  large  slice  of  onion,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  one- 
half  of  pepper,  one  pint  of  stock.  Cook  half  an  hour,  take  out 
onion,  add  one  tablespoon  of  butter.  Cook  half  an  hour  and  serve. 
Have  ready  some  coarse  bread  crumbs  fried  brown  in  hot  butter. 
Spread  on  hot  platter,  lay  on  the  game  and  sprinkle  with  more  fried, 
crumbs. 

Piquante  Sauce.  Is  made  the  same  as  a  brown  or  white  sauce, 
adding  a  teaspoon  each  of  chopped  olives,  pickles  and  capers.  A 
larger  quantity  may  be  used  if  desired. 

Anchovy  and  Shrimp  Sauce.  Make  a  cream  or  white  sauce, 
color  pink  with  anchovy  sauce,  and  add  one  cup  of  shrimps.  Let 
the  shrimps  stand  in  the  hot  sauce  about  five  minutes  to  heat 
through. 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKKRY  49 

Brown  Sauce.  One  pint  of  dark  stock,  two  tablespoons  of  butter 
two  heaping  tablespoons  of  browned  flour.  Put  the  stock  in  a 
double  boiler,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  the  butter  into  a 
rol<l  saucepan,  let  it  get  brown,  add  the  flour.  Pour  gradually  over 
this  part  of  the  hot  stock,  turn  all  into  the  double  boiler.  Cook  ten 
minutes;  add  a  tablespoon  of  brandy  or  wine.  If  liked  fry  a  chopped 
onion  in  the  butter. 

Bechamel  Yellow  Sauce.  Put  three  tablespoons  of  butter  into  a 
saucepan  and  heat  to  a  cream;  then  add  three  level  tablespoons  of 
flour,  and  beat  again.  Then  add  ten  peppercorns,  small  piece  of 
mace,  small  slice  of  carrot,  half  an  onion,  and  one  pint  of  white 
stock.  Tie  together  one  bay  leaf,  two  sprigs  of  parsley  and  one 
sjii -JLr  of  ih\ -me.  Put  this  in  the  saucepan.  Simmer  twenty  min- 
utes, then  strain  and  put  over  the  fire  again.  Add  salt  and  pepper 
ti>  taste,  and  half  a  cup  of  cream.  Beat  together  the  yolks  of  four 
«ggs  and  half  a  cup  of  cold  cream.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  sauce, 
heat  to  the  boiling  point,  cook  two  minutes  longer,  stirring  all  the 
time.  Do  not  let  it  boil,  or  it  will  curdle. 

Spanish  Sauce.  One  pint  and  one  gill  of  consomme,  three  table- 
spoons of  gelatine,  four  of  flour,  four  of  butter,  two  of  chopped  onion, 
one  of  chopped  carrot,  one  of  chopped  celery,  one  ounce  of  lean  ham, 
one  bay  leaf,  one  sprig  of  parsley,  two  cloves,  a  bit  of  mace,  salt  and 
pepper.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  one  gill  of  consomme  for  an  hour  or 
more.  Cook  the  butter  and  vegetables  together  for  ten  minutes, 
being  careful  not  to  let  them  burn,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  until 
brown,  stirring  all  the  while.  Draw  the  saucepan  back,  and  gradu- 
ally add  the  pint  of  consomme.  Boil  for  three  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  while.  Then  add  the  herbs  and  spice,  and  let  it  stand  where  it 
will  simmer  for  two  minutes.  Add  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  cook 
five  minutes  longer.  Skim  the  fat  from  the  sauce,  and  strain. 

Bernaise  Sauce.     Put  into  a  hot  cup  four  tablespoons  of  butter, 


50  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

and  stir  until  soft  and  creamy.  Put  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  one-half 
teaspoon  of  salt  and  one-fifth  teaspoon  of  pepper  into  a  small  granite 
saucepan,  and  beat  with  a  Dover  beater  until  the  eggs  are  light, 
then  add  the  butter  in  three  parts,  beating  each  time  until  the 
mixture  is  smooth.  Add  one  tablespoon  of  tarragon  vinegar  and 
beat  again.  Place  the  saucepan  in  another  of  boiling  water,  and 
cook  for  three  minutes,  beating  constantly  with  an  egg  beater.  Take 
from  the  fire,  and  add  one  teaspoon  of  chopped  parsley  and  tarragon 
and  one  teaspoon  of  onion  juice.  The  sauce  must  be  used  as  soon  a» 
finished.  This  sauce  should  be  garnished  with  potato  croquettes. 


SAUCES  WITH   OILS 


Sauce  Tartare.  Put  into  a  mortar  one  tablespoon  of  butter  and 
one  teaspoon  of  chopped  parsley.  Pound  to  a  smooth  paste,  and 
rub  through  a  small  strainer.  Then  pound  two  tablespoons  of 
capers  and  two  tablespoons  of  chopped  cucumber  pickles  to  a  paste, 
and  rub  through  a  strainer  on  to  the  parsley  and  butter.  Keep  this 
mixture  cool.  Put  in  a  bowl  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  uncooked,  one 
teaspoon  of  mustard,  one-half  teaspoon  of  sugar,  one  teaspoon  of 
salt,  a  little  cayenne.  Beat  until  thick  and  ropy  (from  3  to  5  minutes), 
add  oil,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  until  so  thick  that  the  beater  turns 
with  difficulty,  then  add  a  tablespoon  at  a  time  until  a  gill  and  a 
half  has  been  used.  When  the  mixture  is  thick  begin  to  add  vinegar 
(alternating  with  oil),  a  teaspoon  at  a  time,  until  two  tablespoons 
have  been  used,  then  add  one  teaspoon  of  onion  juice  and  the 
strained  mixture.  This  sauce  must  be  thick  and  smooth.  To  insure 
this  add  oil  very  slowly  at  first. 

French  Dressing.  One  tablespoon  of  vinegar,  three  tablespoons 
of  oil,  one  saltspoon  of  pepper,  one  of  salt.  Mix  well,  take  a  small 
slice  of  bread,  rub  slightly  with  garlic,  set  in  salad  with  which  this 
dressing  is  to  be  served  for  an  hour.  Remove  the  bread,  pour  on 
the  dressing.  Garnish  with  beets  or  olives. 

Remoullde  Sauce.  One  pint  of  oil,  one  tablespoon  each  of  plain 
and  tarragon  vinegar.  Work  the  yolks  of  two  hard  boiled  eggs 
until  smooth,  then  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg,  one  teaspoon  of 
mustard,  and  beat  with  the  Dover  beater  five  minutes.  Add  the  oil 

51 


52  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

one  teaspoon  at  a  time,  beating  three  minutes  between  each  spoon- 
ful. After  adding  five  teaspoons  in  this  manner,  put  in  two  or  three 
at  a  time,  and  the  vinegar  as  it  thickens.  When  done  add  one-half 
teaspoon  of  salt,  one-third  teaspoon  of  white  pepper,  and  one  tea- 
spoon of  chopped  parsley.  It  should  be  very  thick. 

Green  Salad  Dressing".  Pound  in  a  mortar  a  handful  of 
thoroughly  washed  and  wiped  parsley,  one  bunch  of  chervil,  one  of 
chives,  one  small  onion,  one  anchovy,  a  tablespoon  of  capers  or 
olives.  Take  quarter  of  a  cup  of  bread  that  has  been  thoroughly 
soaked — squeezed  dry — pound  to  a  paste  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve. 
The  bread  must  not  be  moist.  Beat  in  well  the  yoke  of  one  egg, 
then  add  slowly  one-half  cup  of  olive  oil.  If  not  green,  color  with 
extract  of  spinach.  This  is  very  nice  with  fish. 

Sauce  et  Garniture.  Beat  the  yolk  of  one  egg  into  a  bowl,  add 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  mix  well  with  a  fork.  Add  slowly 
one  cup  of  olive  oil,  then  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  This 
mixture  should  be  thick;  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar. 
Chop  fine  one  tablespoonful  of  cucumber  pickles,  one  tablespoonful  of 
capers,  one  tablespoonful  of  chives,  one  tablespoonful  of  tarragon 
and  add  to  the  sauce. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing".  One-half  teaspoon  of  dry  mustard,  yolk 
of  one  egg,  one  pint  of  olive  oil.  Beat  egg  and  mustard  smooth, 
pour  in  a  steady  stream  a  tablespoon  of  oil  at  a  time,  beating  con- 
stantly; beat  three  minutes  between  each  spoonful,  till  one-half  of 
oil  is  used.  This  should  be  very  thick ;  now  add  teaspoon  of  vinegar, 
one  teaspoon  of  salt,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice, 
if  liked;  add  gradually  remainder  of  oil,  then  vinegar  to  taste;  more 
salt  may  be  needed.  Time  for  making  fifteen  minutes.  During  hot 
weather  in  making  oil  dressings  place  dish  in  ice  water. 

It  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  keep  a  salad  dressing  on  hand  and  it 
makes  very  many  "  cold  bites  "  delicious,  if  retained  in  an  agate 
vessel. 


!'I«M,KKSSIYK    COOKERY  53 

Boiled  Dressing:  Put  one  pint  of  vinegar  and  two  teaspoons  of 
salt  on  the  stove  to  heat.  Mix  together  one  tablespoon  of  butter, 
two  of  dry  mustard,  and  two  of  white  sugar;  add  six  tablespoons  of 
cream  and  six  eggs.  When  this  is  all  well  beaten,  pour  on  the  hot 
vinegar  slowly  and  carefully,  beating  all  the  time.  Then  put  it  all 
on  the  stove  and  let  it  boil  until  it  thickens  like  boiled  custard. 
Thin  it  afterwards  with  more  cream  if  you  wish.  Pour  it  into  a 
bowl  to  cool  and  do  not  leave  a  spoon  in  it.  Keep  in  a  glass  jar. 


54  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 


ENTREES 


Cheese  Fondu.  One  cup  stale  bread  crumbs,  one  egg,  one  cup 
of  milk,  butter  size  of  an  egg,  one  cup  of  grated  cheese.  Season  the 
bread  crumbs  with  one-quarter  teaspoon  of  salt,  same  of  pepper,  one 
speck  of  cayenne,  one  saltspoon  of  mustard,  then  add  melted  but- 
ter, cheese,  beaten  egg  and  milk.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  small 
pudding  dish — -or  in  small  dishes  ten  minutes.  Serve  immediately. 

Rice  Croquettes.  One  cup  of  cold  boiled  rice,  warmed  in  double 
boiler,  with  one  teaspoon  of  milk  or  cream,  one  tablespoon  of  butter, 
one  egg,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-quarter  teaspoon  of  white 
pepper,  a  little  cayenne,  one  tablespoon  of  grated  cheese.  Cool, 
shape,  roll  in  bread  crumbs,  dip  in  egg,  roll  again  in  bread  crumbs. 
Fry  in  hot  fat  till  brown. 

Chicken  Croquettes.  Chop  cooked  chicken  rather  fine,  use  one- 
half  pint  of  canned  or  fresh  mushrooms,  one-third  cup  of  cream, 
three  tablespoons  of  butter,  two  of  flour,  one  tablespoon  of  lemon 
juice,  one  teaspoon  of  onion  juice,  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Put  the  cream 
into  a  stewpan  and  let  it  heat  slowly.  Beat  the  flour  and  butter 
together,  add  the  cream  when  it  boils.  Stir  until  smooth,  then  add 
the  chopped  chicken,  to  which  has  been  added  the  onion,  lemon 
juice  and  season,  mushrooms  (first  cooking  mushrooms  half  an  hour 
in  a  tablespoon  of  the  butter),  stir  well;  now  add  the  two  well- 
beaten  yolks,  cook  two  minutes.  Pour  this  on  a  platter,  let  it  cool, 
shape  into  croquettes,  roll  in  dry  bread  crumbs,  then  in  egg  and 
again  in  crumbs.  Fry  in  a  basket  in  deep  fat  three  minutes.  Take 
up,  drain  on  butcher  paper. 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKKKY  •)•) 

Lobster  Cutlets.  One  pint  of  lobster  meat,  or  crawfish,  chopped 
rather  fine,  one-half  pint  of  cream  or  chicken  broth,  a  tablespoon  of 
Hour,  three  tablespoons  of  butter,  one  tablespoon  of  lemon  juice,  one 
quarter  teaspoon  of  white  pepper,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  one  level 
teaspoon  of  salt,  four  eggs.  Mix  salt  and  pepper  with  chopped  fish. 
Put  tlif  cream  or  stock  on  to  heat.  Mix  the  flour  and  butter  and 
stir  into  the  hot  cream,  cook  one  minute,  stirring  all  the  time.  Add 
the  fish;  stir  well  and  cook  for  three  minutes.  Then  add  two  eggs, 
\\ell  beaten,  stir  quickly  and  take  from  the  fire  instantly;  stir  in 
the  lemon  juice,  and  spread  the  mixture  on  a  platter  to  cool.  When 
cold  form  in  cutlet  shape,  then  cover  with  l>eaten  egg  and  crumbs. 
Stick  one  of  the  small  claws  into  the  small  end  of  each  cutlet.  Fry 
two  minutes,  and  drain,  Serve  with  tartare  sauce. 

Cutlets  a  In  Maintenon.  For  six  mutton  cutlets  use  four  table- 
spoons of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  of  chopped  onion,  one  generous 
tablespoon  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  three  of  stock,  one  teaspoon  of 
minced  parsley,  one  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoon  of  pepper,  three  gills 
of  Spanish  sauce.  Cook  the  butter  and  onion  together  for  five  min- 
utes: then  add  the  mushrooms  and  seasoning  and  cook  five  minutes 
lontfrr.  Add  the  flour  and  stir  well;  then  add  the  stock  and  cook 
three  minutes  longer.  Let  the  mixture  cool.  Have  the  cutlets  cut 
from  the  ribs,  one  inch  and  a  half  thick.  Trim  as  for  French  chops, 
with  a  sharp  knife.  Split  the  chops  in  two  without  separating  them 
at  the  bone.  Spread  the  cooked  mixture  inside,  and  press  lightly 
together.  Broil  for  eight  minutes  over  clear  coals.  Serve  very  hot 
with  Spanish  sauce. 

Sweetbreads.  When  a  plump,  healthy  calf  is  slaughtered  which 
has  l>een  fed  on  the  milk  of  the  mother  cow,  there  are  found  in  the 
lower  throat  and  near  the  heart  two  small  lumps  of  flesh,  weighing 
perhaps  half  a  pound,  termed  "  sweetbreads/'  These,  when  properly 
rooked,  are  about  the  most  delectable  and  nutritious  morsels  known 
to  mankind  in  the  line  of  animal  food.  They  are  the  pancreatic 


56  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

glands,  and  their  function  in  the  animal  economy  is  to  assimilate 
the  oily  portions  of  the  food.  In  the  milk  calf,  therefore,  the  sweet- 
hread  may  be  almost  said  to  be  composed  of  assimilated  cream.  In 
the  older  animal,  or  when  the  calf  is  turned  out  to  grass,  these 
glands  either  shrink  away  or  become  tough,  so  that  they  are  no 
longer  the  same  dainty  article.  Care  must  be  taken  in  preparing. 

Larded  Sweetbreads.  Blanch  the  sweetbreads  in  cold  water. 
remove  the  veins  and  skin.  Then  put  in  cold  water  again  with  one 
tablespoon  of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice,  and  let  them  remain  half  an 
hour.  Remove  from  the  water,  dry  on  a  cloth,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  white  pepper.  Lard  them  with  very  narrow  strips  of  salt  pork 
with  a  larding  needle;  or  lay  narrow  strips  of  salt  pork  or  bacon 
over,  the  top.  Bake  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  very  hot  with  brown 
sauce. 

Beefsteak  and  Sweetbreads.  Prepare  and  cut  sweetbreads  in 
slices  and  broil  and  serve  with  broiled  beefsteak. 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Marengo.  Put  sweetbreads  into  cold  water, 
remove  brains,  then  squeeze  over  them  a  little  lemon  juice.  Put 
them  in  boiling  water;  cook  twenty  minutes.  Take  them  out  and 
throw  them  into  cold  water  to  harden.  Cut  in  small  pieces.  Put 
into  the  double  boiler  one  cup  of  cream,  salt,  pepper  and  grating  of 
nutmeg.  Have  a  few  tomatoes  cooking.  Take  one  tablespoon  of 
butter,  melt  as  before  directed.  Add  a  tablespoon  of  flour,  then  a 
little  cream,  and  strain  some  of  the  tomatoes  into  this  mixture,  so 
as  to  make  a  light  pink.  Add  the  sweetbreads.  Ornament  with 
shredded  olives. 

Brown  Gravy  and  Sweetbreads.  Prepare  sweetbreads  the  same 
as  for  Sweetbreads  a  la  Creme.  If  you  have  dark  stock  use  that,  but 
if  not,  prepare  as  follows:  Two  pounds  of  lean  beef  cut  in  small 
pieces  and  put  into  a  crock  in  a  slow  oven,  with  a  little  salt  and  one 
tablespoon  of  cold  water ;  cook  one  hour,  take  out,  add  one-half  cup 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY  57 

of  boiling  water,  strain  into  double  boiler.  Roux:  Take  one  table- 
spoon of  butter  in  cold  pan,  let  it  get  brown  but  not  burnt,  add  two 
tablespoons  of  browned  flour,  a  few  drops  of  onion  and  lemon  juice, 
a  little  tomato  catsup  and  Worcestershire  sauce;  season.  Pour 
some  of  the  gravy  over  this,  then  put  all  into  the  gravy  and  cook 
five  minutes.  Serve  hot,  with  toasted  bread.  Have  the  sweetbreads 
browned  and  add  to  the  gravy.  Add  a  half  cup  of  sherry  or  brandy 
if  liked. 

Brains.  Brains  can  be  cooked  by  any  recipe  for  sweetbreads. 
They  require  but  ten  minutes  to  boil. 

Lobster  a  la  Ne\vburg.  Divide  one  medium  size  lobster  or  craw- 
fish in  half,  remove  the  coral  and  creamy  green  fat  and  put  one 
side.  Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  put  into  a  saucepan  four 
tablespoons  of  butter;  when  it  creams  add  a  half  cup  of  Madeira  or 
sherry,  reduce  to  one-half.  Put  a  cup  of  cream  in  a  double  boiler; 
when  hot  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.  Pour  this  gradually 
over  the  butter  mixture  and  return  to  double  boiler.  Pound  to  a 
paste  the  coral  and  fat  and  stir  into  the  sauce,  add  the  yolks  of  three 
well-beaten  eg«rs,  add  the  lobster;  heat  through  and  serve. 

Pigeon  or  Quail  au  Deliee.  Take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bacon, 
cut  up  in  small  pieces;  one-half  pound  of  veal  liver  cut  in  small 
pieces.  Fry  the  bacon,  add  the  liver,  add  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  chalot, 
a  bay  leaf,  half  a  chopped  carrot,  some  of  turnip,  salt  and  pepper; 
stew  till  cooked.  Pound  all  together  with  a  few  mushrooms.  Pass 
through  a  wire  sieve.  Stuff  two  birds  with  this  forcemeat.  Put 
pieces  of  butter  or  lard  on  the  breast  and  bake  from  eight  to  ten 
minutes,  basting  often.  Add  a  cup  of  stock  to  the  baking  pan; 
thicken;  put  in  two  tablespoons  of  currant  jelly.  Season  and  serve. 

Aspee  of  Fillets  of  Chicken.  Take  a  mold,  set  on  ice  and  water. 
and  fill  to  the  depth  of  quarter  of  an  inch  with  dissolved  aspic  jelly. 


58  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

When  this  is  set  cut  in  fancy  shapes  with  French  cutters  hard-boiled 
eggs,  truffles,  pickles  and  cooked  beet.  Arrange  them  in  patterns 
and  carefully  put  another  layer  of  jelly.  Arrange  fillets  of  chicken 
that  have  been  cooked  and  cut  in  nice  shapes,  neatly  all  round; 
pour  over  more  jelly,  then  pour  over  a  thick  mayonnaise.  Fill  up 
the  mould;  put  away  in  ice  chest  to  harden. 

Aspic  Jelly.  Reduce  one  quart  of  white  or  dark  consomme  to 
two-thirds  of  a  quart.  Pour  some  in  a  mould  about  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  in  depth ;  place  on  ice  and  water  until  it  jellies ;  lay  on  some 
of  the  following  cooked  meats,  free  from  bones  (not  allowing  the 
pieces  to  touch  the  sides  of  the  mould):  chicken,  game,  tongue,  or 
either  of  them.  Cover  with  the  remainder  of  consomme,  so  as  to 
have  the  same  thickness  at  the  top  as  at  the  bottom.  Place  in  a 
refrigerator  until  it  jellies;  then  dip  mold  in  warm  water,  turn  on 
a  dish.  (Cold  entree.) 


OYSTERS 

To  prepare  oysters  for  cooking  pour  over  oysters  water  and  take  out 
one  at  a  time,  remove  any  bits  of  shell.  Serious  accidents  have 
resulted  from  the  presence  of  pieces  of  shells.  Oyster  juice  is  seldom 
used  in  cooking. 

Baked  Oysters.  Wash  two  dozen  large  oysters ;  put  them  in  bak- 
ing pan  in  the  oven;  bake  till  they  open,  keep  in  the  shells.  Add 
to  the  juice  a  little  cayenne,  lemon  juice  and  butter.  Serve  very 
hot  the  oysters  and  sauce. 

Oysters  a  la  Poulette.  Put  two  tablespoons  of  butter  in  a  hot 
saucepan;  when  hot  add  two  tablespoons  of  chopped  onion,  one  of 
carrot  and  parsley,  bay  leaf,  sprig  of  thyme;  simmer  for  ten 
minutes,  add  two  tablespoons  of  flour;  have  one  cup  of  light-colored 


PROOKKSS1YK    COOKKKY  •">'.) 

stock  liot,  pour  gradually  over,  strain  into  double  boiler.  Season; 
add  one  cup  of  hot  cream,  stir  well,  when  thick,  add  one  pint  of 
oysters,  strain,  squeeze  over  lemon  juice,  cook  till  plump  and  add  to 

the  sauce. 

Oyster  en  Coquille.  Choose  six  large  oysters;  drain.  Wash 
oyster  shells.  Now  marinate  the  oysters  with  melted  butter, 
chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt.  Fill  the  shells,  and  cover  with 
stale  bread  crumbs.  Put  bits  of  butter  on  top  and  brown  in  very 
hot  oven,  then  put  on  each  shell  one  slice  of  lemon. 

Fried  Oysters.  Drain  the  oysters,  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper,  roll  them  in  a  few  fine  bread  crumbs  (one  by  one),  dip  each 
one  in  egg,  roll  again  in  crumbs.  Let  stand  one  hour.  Boil  in  hot 
fat  one  minute.  Serve  in  a  hot  napkin. 

Fancy  Roast.  Put  one  tablespoon  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add 
one-half  saltspoon  of  white  pepper,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  a  few  grains 
of  cayenne  and  a  tablespoon  of  tomato  catsup.  When  hot  add  one 
pint  of  oysters  and  cook  until  plump  and  the  edges  curl.  Serve  on 
toast. 

Oysters  en  Beurre  Noir.  One  pint  of  oysters,  two  tablespoons 
of  butter,  two  of  vinegar,  a  speck  of  cayenne  pepper.  Put  butter  in 
a  rnlil  saucepan  and  brown,  l>e  careful  not  to  burn.  Strain  the 
oysters,  cook  until  plump  and  the  leaves  curl,  sprinkle  with  one-half 
teaspoon  of  salt,  add  to  the  brown  butter  into  which  the  vinegar  and 
pepper  have  l>een  added.  Fill  Dresden  fritters  and  serve  hot. 

Oysters  and  Bacon.  Wrap  each  oyster  in  a  very  thin  piece  of 
salt  pork  or  bacon,  and  fasten  with  a  wooden  toothpick.  Fry  in  a 
hot  frying-pan  until  plump  and  the  edges  curl.  If  oysters  are 
allowed  to  cook  too  long,  and  lose  their  plumpness,  they  become 
hard  and  indigestible. 


60  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Curried  Oysters.  Cook  oysters  until  plump,  or  until  the  edges 
curl.  Cook  two  tablespoons  of  chopped  onion  in  one  tablespoon  of 
butter  five  minutes.  Be  careful  not  to  burn.  Mix  one  tablespoon 
of  curry  powder  with  two  tablespoons  of  flour,  and  stir  into  the 
butter;  add  one  pint  of  hot  milk  gradually,  and  stir  as  directed  for 
white  sauce.  Add  the  oysters. 

Kidney  Stew  with  Sweetbreads.  One  beef  kidney,  one  onion, 
two  tomatoes,  a  bouquet  seasoning,  one  set  of  sweetbreads.  Wash 
and  then  cut  the  kidney  in  small  pieces,  chop  and  fry  the  onion  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  till  brown,  then  add  the  pieces  of  kidney 
and  fry  till  slightly  brown.  Put  this  into  a  saucepan  and  cover  with 
boiling  water,  simmer  four  hours  or  till  tender.  While  cooking  put 
in  the  bouquet  tied  in  cheese  cloth.  If  you  like  spices  add  to 
bouquet  four  cloves,  s"ame  of  allspice,  a  blade  of  mace.  In  half  an 
hour  remove  the  bouquet,  add  sliced  tomatoes.  Season  to  taste. 
Clean  sweetbreads,  cook  as  directed;  when  cold  cut  them  in  small 
pieces,  fry  brown  in  butter,  season  and  add  to  kidney  stew  with  one 
finely  chopped  green  pepper.  One-half  hour  before  serving  ornament 
with  French  potatoes.  Calves'  brains  may  be  substituted  for 
sweetbreads.  Sweetbreads  may  be  omitted.  If  desired,  just  before 
serving  add  a  small  glass  of  champagne  or  white  wine  sweetened. 

Croustades  of  Rice.  Wash  two  cups  of  rice,  pour  over  the  rice 
six  cups  of  boiling  broth,  cook  till  tender,  or  about  one-half  hour, 
season  with  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  a  table- 
spoon of  butter  and  a  tablespoon  of  grated  cheese,  one-fourth  of  a 
grated  nutmeg.  Spread  in  a  buttered  pan — that  is,  one  inch  thick 
— cover  with  greased  paper,  leave  to  cool  with  a  weight  on  top.  Cut 
in  rounds  with  a  large  biscuit  cutter,  with  a  smaller  cutter  make  a 
round  in  the  center  like  patties  (dip  the  cutter  each  time  in  warm 
water).  Dip  croustades  in  egg,  then  in  bread  crumbs;  fry  in  deep 
fat  five  minutes;  remove  the  center  round,  scoop  out  the  center  and 
fill  with  oysters  a  la  poulette  or  anything  preferred.  Cover  with  the 
center  round. 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY  61 

Baked  Bell  Peppers.  Select  bell  peppers  of  uniform  size,  cut  off 
the  top,  remove  the  seeds  and  stuff  with  oyster  forcemeat,  bake  in  a 
buttered  pan  one-half  hour. 

Peppers  a  la  Espagnol.  Select  bell  peppers  of  uniform  size, 
put  them  into  boiling  water,  let  stand  for  a  while,  when  you  can 
readily  remove  the  skin.  When  cool  cut  off  the  large  end,  remove 
the  center,  fill  with  any  entree  preferred,  and  bake  twenty  minutes, 
basting  frequently  with  melted  butter.  Serve  with  Spanish  Sauce. 
After  filling  the  peppers  put  on  the  covers  again  and  sew  them  down. 

Poached  Eggs  and  Mushrooms.  Peel  enough  mushrooms  to  fill 
two  cujis.  after  they  are  broken  in  small  pieces,  sprinkle  over  them 
a  little  salt  and  let  them  stand  a  few  moments, this  will  remove  any 
small  bugs;  put  in  a  strainer  and  pour  over  a  little  water,  shake  well 
and  put  in  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoon  of  butter,  cook  slowly 
fifteen  minutes  or  till  soft.  Poach  six  eggs,  by  dropping  carefully 
into  boiling  salted  water,  remove  with  a  skimmer  and  arrange  round 
the  edge  of  a  platter  and  pile  the  mushrooms  in  the  center. 

Croustades  of  Asparagus.  Cut  off  the  tops  of  rolls  or  biscuit. 
Scrape  out  the  inside,  set  with  the  tops  into  the  oven  to  crisp.  Make 
a  white  sauce;  put  in  the  tops  of  two  bunches  of  cooked  asparagus. 
Fill  the  rolls  with  this;  cover.  Serve. 

Macaroni,  Italian  Style.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  large  spoonful 
of  lard;  when  melted  put  in  two  pounds  of  beef  (a  piece  of  the 
round);  when  fried  brown  on  one  side,  turn,  and  fry  the  same  on 
the  other.  Put  in  one  sliced  onion,  pepper,  salt  and  other  spices  to 
suit.  When  this  has  cooked  for  about  one-half  hour  put  in  one- 
quarter  of  a  can  of  tomatoes,  or  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh;  improved 
by  adding  Italian  dried  mushrooms.  Boil  slowly  (if  necessary  add 
boiling  water,  or  .broth  sufficient  to  make  about  a  pint  of  gravy) ; 
cook  about  two  hours  in  all.  Take  one  pound  of  Royal  macaroni, 


62  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

or  spaghetti,  and  put  into  a  large  kettle  full  of  boiling  water;  cook 
for  twenty  minutes,  seasoning  with  salt.  Strain  well  when  done. 
Spread  the  macaroni  or  spaghetti  on  a  platter;  pour  over  it  the  stew, 
and  sprinkle  with  cheese,  serve  hot. 

Macaroni  and  Tomatoes.  Cook  one  quart  of  tomatoes  until  quite 
dry.  Cook  macaroni  until  soft  in  salted  water,  drain  it,  grate  one  cup  of 
cheese,  melt  two  tablespoons  of  butter  in  a  hot  stew  pan,  add  the 
grated  cheese,  and  stir  until  ropy.  Turn  into  the  cooked  tomatoes, 
season  with  a  saltspoon  of  cayenne  and  add  white  pepper.  Put 
the  macaroni  around  a  hot  platter,  pour  tomatoes  into  the  center. 
Serve  very  hot  and  quickly.  Any  food  cooked  with  cheese  must  be 
served  as  soon  as  cooked. 

Macaroni.  One-half  cup  of  macaroni  after  being  broken  into 
inch  pieces.  Cook  in  boiling  salted  water  twenty  minutes  or  till 
soft.  Drain;  pour  cold  water  over  it,  and  serve  with  hot  white 
sauce,  or  tomato  sauce. 

Baked  Macaroni.  Boil  one  pound  of  best  macaroni  or 
spaghetti,  as  stated,  put  in  a  bake  pan,  mix  with  some  melted  butter 
and  grated  cheese,  sprinkle  the  top  with  cheese  grated,  add  one  cup 
of  milk,  bake  until  the  top  is  brown. 

Notice — Care  should  always  be  taken  that  the  water  in  which  the 
macaroni  or  spaghetti  is  cooked  be  boiling  before  the  same  is  put  in. 

Timballs  of  Salmon.  One  pound  of  salmon.  Remove  the  skin, 
take  out  the  bones,  chop,  and  pound  in  a  mortar  with  a  cjove  of 
garlic,  a  saltspoon  of  mustard,  a  speck  of  red  pepper,  saltspoon  of 
white  pepper,  six  canned  mushrooms  chopped  fine.  Press  all 
through  a  wire  sieve;  add  a  cup  of  cream;  if  not  add  more  season- 
ing if  needed.  Beat  the  whites  stiff;  add  gradually  to  timbal  mix- 
ture. Butter  timbal  moulds  well  and  fill;  cover  with  greased 
paper,  put  into  the  oven  in  a  pan  with  hot  water,  cook  fifteen  min- 
utes, turn  out  and  eerve  with  Hollandaise  sauce. 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  63 

Timhalls  of  Chicken.  Chop  a  chicken  breast,  pound  in  a 
mortar;  add  the  same  quantity  of  bread  soaked,  squeezed;  season 
with  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-half  of  pepper,  saltspoon  of  nutmeg;  press 
through  a  sieve,  add  the  yolks  of  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Grease  six 
timbal  moulds,  sprinkle  with  stale  bread  crumbs,  fill,  cook  as  above 
directed.  Serve  with  Madeira  sauce. 

Fillet  of  Chicken.  A  chicken  breast  has  four  fillets.  Dip  the 
fillets  in  two  tablespoons  of  melted  butter  with  a  teaspoon  of  chopped 
parsley,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Roll  in  dried  bread  crumbs, 
then  in  egg.  then  in  crumbs;  fry  in  deep  fat  five  minutes.  Take  up 
on  butcher  paper;  serve  with  currant  jelly. 

Gnllatin  of  Chicken.  One-half  pound  of  lean  veal,  one-half 
pound  of  sausage  meat,  one  quart  of  bread  crumbs,  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley: season  with  a  teaspoon  of  salt  and  half  a  teaspoon  of  pepper 
and  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  one  shalot  or  small  onion,  one-fourth 
pound  of  bacon.  Remove  all  the  bones  from  an  uncooked  chicken, 
spread  out  the  meat  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Pound  the 
uncooked  veal  in  a  mortar,  with  the  parsley  and  half  a  teaspoon  of 
powdered  tliynie.  and  a  grated  shalot.  When  thoroughly  pounded 
put  into  a  bowl,  add  the  sausage  meat,  bread  crumbs,  two  eggs  and 
a  grating  of  nutmeg,  the  salt  and  pepper.  Place  the  forcemeat  over 
the  chicken,  lay  over  the  forcemeat  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  bacon, 
cut  in  thin  slices.  Add  ten  sliced  mushrooms  and  four  sliced  hard- 
boiled  eggs.  Spread  the  gallatin  in  a  cloth,  roll  tightly,  and  secure 
it  will)  a  string.  Place  in  a  stock  pot  with  any  meat  bones  you 
may  have,  and  chopped  soup  vegetables  and  spices.  Cover  with 
boiling  water  and  let  it  simmer  three  hours.  Remove  from  the  pot, 
place  between  two  boards,  with  a  weight  on  the  top.  When  cold 
take  out  of  the  cloth  and  trim  the  ends,  then  glaze  it  over  with  meat 
glax.e.  or,  if  preferred,  pour  aspic  jelly  over  this.  It  may  be  served 
whole,  garnished  with  lemon,  or  cut  in  thin  slices  and  laid  on  salad, 
(larnish  with  parsley  and  boiled  beets. 


64  PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY 

Glaze. — Reduce  the  stock  in  which  the  gallatin  has  been  made  to 
a  glaze;  that  is,  boil  away  until  it  is  thick. 

Smothered  Chicken.  Prepare  chicken  as  for  roasting,  and  split 
down  the  back.  Heat  in  frying-pan  four  tablespoons  of  butter,  lay 
in  the  seasoned  chicken,  breast  side  down.  Simmer  slowly  one  hour 
and  a  half,  or  until  tender.  Turn  over,  and  cover  with  cream  and 
smother  half  an  hour.  Remove  chicken  to  hot  platter,  season  the 
cream,  thicken  with  flour,  cook  five  minutes,  pour  over  the  chicken 
and  serve.  Garnish  with  points  of  toast.  Or  lay  chicken  in  baking 
pan,  breast  up,  cover  closely  and  bake  until  a  delicate  brown  and 
very  tender.  Cover  with  cream  and  pieces  of  butter.  Season,  cover, 
and  let  it  cook  half  an  hour. 

Scalloped  Chicken.  One  chicken  (or  one  can  of  boned  chicken), 
can  of  mushrooms,  small  blade  of  mace,  a  few  shred  of  onions,  one 
tablespoon  of  butter,  two  tablespoons  of  flour,  one  cup  of  fine  bread 
crumbs.  Cut  up  the  chicken,  put  in  a  saucepan  the  butter,  mace 
and  onions.  When  the  butter  is  hot  add  the  chicken.  Stir  until  a 
glaze  is  over  it,  then  add  sufficient  water  to  stew.  Cook  until  ten- 
der. Take  out  the  meat,  separate  from  the  bones,  chop  slightly, 
season.  To  one  cup  of  broth  add  one  teacup  of  milk,  two  table- 
spoons of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  one  egg.  Butter  a 
baking  dish,  sprinkle  with  bread  crumbs,  a  layer  of  chicken,  then  a 
layer  of  mushrooms  cooked  in  one  tablespoon  of  butter ;  moisten 
well  with  the  gravy;  continue  until  the  dish  is  full,  adding 
crumbs  last.  Scatter  over  all  a  few  bits  of  butter.  Put  in  the  oven 
and  bake  one-half  hour. 

Fricassee  of  Chicken.  Cut  chicken  neatly  at  every  joint  in 
pieces  for  serving.  Heat  a  large  piece  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  add 
a  slice  of  salt  pork;  when  hot  put  in  one  slice  of  onion,  one  of  carrot 
and  a  bouquet.  Put  in  the  chicken  and  fry  slowly;  when  brown, 
season,  pour  over  hot  water  and  simmer  until  tender.  Remove 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  65 

chicken,  thicken  the  gravy,  add  one  cup  of  cream,  strain,  return  to 
btove,  season ;  put  in  the  chicken  and  heat  for  about  fifteen  minutes. 
If  liked,  one-half  cup  of  chopped  mushrooms  cooked  in  butter,  may 
be  added.  Arrange  the  body  of  chicken  in  center  of  dish,  with 
wings  on  top,  thighs  below,  drumsticks  at  the  end  of  platter.  Pour 
over  some  of  the  gravy ;  put  the  remainder  in  sauce-boat. 

Frogs'  Legs  a  la  Cream.  Cook  six  pair's  of  frogs  legs  fifteen  min- 
utes in  hot  milk  with  a  little  salt.  Put  one  pint  of  cream  in  double 
boiler.  When  hot  add  half  teaspoon  of  salt,  saltspoon  of  white 
pepper.  Melt  two  tablespoons  of  butter  in  hot  saucepan ;  add  two 
tablespoons  of  flour,  pour  gradually  over  a  part  of  the  cream.  Stir 
all  into  double  boiler;  stir  well;  when  thick  add  the  frogs'  legs. 

Devilled  Crab.  One  crab,  pull  off  the  sand  bag  and  the  shaggy 
substance  from  the  sides,  being  careful  to  save  the  fat  which  is  on 
the  bottom  and  the  sides  of  the  shell.  Chop  the  meat  fine,  season 
with  a  speck  of  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper,  two  tablespoons  of  melted 
butter,  one  tablespoon  of  sherry,  one  beaten  egg,  two  tablespoons  of 
cream,  a  grating  of  nutmeg,  one  saltspoon  of  mustard.  If  not  soft 
enough  add  more  cream.  Fill  a  crab  shell,  or  small  shells  that  can 
be  had  for  this  purpose.  Cover  with  bread  crumbs,  squeeze  on  a 
little  lemon  juice,  put  bits  of  butter  on  top,  and  brown  in  a  quick 
oven.  If  the  flavor  of  garlic  or  onion  is  desired,  rub  on  the  shells 
before  putting  in  the  mixture.  Serve  on  a  bed  of  parsley  or  water- 
cresses,  with  a  slice  of  lemon  on  each  shell. 

Quenelles.  Chop  fine  one  pound  of  fresh  veal,  half  lean  and  half 
fat,  the  fat  nearest  the  kidney  is  the  best;  then  pound  it  well  and 
press  it  through  a  sieve.  Mix  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  it  and 
season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  grated,  and  powdered 
cinnamon.  Spread  flour  on  the  paste  board,  put  a  teaspoon  of  meat 
here  and  there,  roll  gently  each  part  into  small  balls,  using  as  little 
flour  as  possible.  They  may  also  be  rolled  an  olive  shape.  Throw 
the  balls  into  boiling  broth  or  boiling  water  at  the  first  boiling,  boil 


66  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

five  minutes  and  drain.  As  soon  as  cold  they  are  ready  for  use. 
Quenelles  are  used  for  garnishing.  They  may  be  fried  instead  of 
boiled. 

Rissoles  or  Ceciles.  One  pound  of  meat  chopped  fine,  have  two 
tablespoons  of  stale  bread  crumbs,  two  tablespoons  of  suet  chopped, 
one  teaspoon  of  chopped  parsley,  one-half  teaspoon  of  sweet  herbs, 
salt  and  pepper,  gill  of  stock,  one  tablespoon  of  flour.  Mix  meat, 
butter,  bread  crumbs  and  herbs,  salt,  one  tablespoon  of  flour,  add 
one  gill  of  stock.  Flour  the  board  and  turn  mixture  on  it.  Form 
into  little  balls,  roll  in  egg  and  bread  crumbs.  Fry  in  hot  fat. 

For  a  change  make  plain  pie  crust,  adding  a  little  baking  powder. 
Roll  out  thin,  cut  in  small  squares,  put  each  rissole  in  a  square  and 
cover;  dip  in  egg  and  crumbs;  fry  three  minutes. 

Shrimps.  Make  a  sauce,  the  same  as  white  sauce,  using  one  pint 
of  cream,  and  add  one  cup  of  shrimps ;  heat ;  if  liked,  add  one-half 
cup  of  strained  cooked  tomatoes. 

Liles  aux  Emoules.  Open  two  quarts  of  clams  or  mussels  by 
setting  on  stove  in  kettle  without  water.  Add  one  clove  of  garlic 
and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  steam  until  open.  Remove  shells  and 
strain  liquor.  Add  to  the  liquor  one  cup  of  white  wine,  thicken 
with  two  tablespoons  of  flour  and  one  of  butter.  Cook  in  double 
boiler.  Add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  cup  of  cream,  the  mussels 
and  one  cup  of  shrimps ;  heat,  skim  out  the  mussels  and  shrimps, 
place  on  hot  dish,  and  pour  over  the  sauce.  Garnish  with  points  of 
toast. 

Creme  Fr/te.  Boil  one  pint  of  milk  with  one  stick  of  cinnamon. 
Beat  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  two  tablespoons  of  corn  starch  and  one 
of  flour,  with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  one-quarter  cup  of  milk,  one 
saltspoon  of  salt.  Add  boiling  milk  to  this  mixture,  and  cook  fif- 
teen minutes  in  double  boiler ;  add  one  teaspoon  butter,  one  teaspoon 
vanilla.  Put  away  to  cool  in  buttered  pan.  When  cool  cut  >in 
fancy  shapes,  dip  in  bread  crumbs,  then  egg,  then  bread  crumbs; 
fry  in  deep  fat.  Sprinkle  with  sugar  if  you  choose. 


I'KOi-KKSSIVK    COOKERY  67 

Barbecued  Ham.  Spread  on  slices  of  ham,  cooked  or  uncooked, 
one  teaspoon  of  mixed  mustard,  then  add  one  teaspoon  of  vinegar; 
lay  on  hot  saucepan,  pour  vinegar  around,  turn  often.  When  cooked 
add  a  teaspoon  of  wine  or  vinegar.  Serve  hot. 

Honolulu  Curry.  A  small  cocoanut,  one-quarter  of  an  onion,  a 
clove  of  garlic,  inch  of  ginger,  two  tablespoons  of  curry  powder,  one 
quart  of  milk,  four  tablespoons  of  butter,  four  of  flour,  salt,  pepper 
to  taste.  Grate  cocoanut  and  ginger,  onion,  put  into  milk,  with  the 
curry  powder;  cook  half  an  hour.  Add  butter  and  flour.  Have 
cooked  meat  or  fish  cut  in  small  pieces ;  take  half  the  curry  mixture 
and  heat  the  meat  in  it.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  with  the  rest  of  the 
mixture  poured  over  it. 

Escalloped  Calves'  Brains.  Soak  two  sets  of  calves'  brains  in 
warm  water  two  bourn;  free  from  skin  and  fibres,  wash  in  cold 
water.  Tie  them  loosely  in  muslin,  put  in  saucepan,  cover  with 
boiling  water,  add  one  tablespoon  of  vinegar;  boil  gently  ten  min- 
utes, take  from  the  water  and  put  in  cold  water;  when  cold  cut  in 
small  pieces.  Heat  one  tablespoon  of  butter,  add  two  table- 
spoons of  flour;  add  one-half  pint  of  hot  milk  to  the  cooked  flour 
and  butter;  cook,  add  one-half  teaspoon  of  onion  juice,  one-half  tea- 
spoon of  salt,  a  grain  of  pepper  and  one  egg.  Sprinkle  on  brains 
one-half  tablespoon  of  salt  and  a  speck  of  pepper.  Have  ready  one 
pint  of  bread  crumby.  Alternate  a  layer  of  calves'  brains  and  a 
layer  of  bread  crumbs  in  a  baking  dish  until  full,  and  pour  over  the 
eauce.  Bake  twenty  minutes. 

Calf's  Head  a  la  Turk.  When  the  head  is  cooked  remove  the 
bones,  put  the  head  with  skin  down  in  baking  pan,  sprinkle  with 
salt,  pepper  and  mixed  sweet  herbs;  cover  with  stale  bread  crumbs. 
Drop  dabs  of  butter  over  it,  put  in  quick  oven  and  brown.  Remove 
to  a  hot  platter,  garnish  with  the  cooked  tongue  sliced  and  parsley. 
Serve  with  sauce  piquante.  Squeeze  lemon  juice  over  it  before  set- 
ting in  oven. 


VEGETABLES 


See  directions  for  cooking  vegetables. 

Lyonnaise  Potatoes.  One  pint  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  cut  into 
dice,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Fry  one  scant  tablespoon  of 
finely  minced  onion  in  one  heaping  tablespoon  of  butter  until  golden 
brown.  Add  potatoes  and  stir  with  a  fork  till  they  absorb  the  but- 
ter, being  careful  not  to  break  the  potatoes.  Add  one  tablespoon  of 
chopped  parsley  and  one  tablespoon  of  vinegar. 

Creamed  Potatoes.  Cut  one  pint  cold  potatoes  into  dice  or 
thin  slices,  put  them  into  a  shallow  pan,  cover  with  milk,  and  cook 
until  the  potatoes  have  absorbed  nearly  all  the  milk.  Add  one 
tablespoon  butter,  one-half  tablespoon  salt,  a  speck  of  pepper  and  a 
little  chopped  parsley. 

Potato  Boats.  Select  potatoes  of  uniform  size,  bake  one-half 
hour  or  until  done,  take  from  oven,  cut  lengthwise  or  through  the 
center.  Scoop  out  the  ineide,  squeeze  through  a  potato-ricer.  Heat 
half  a  cup  of  milk,  two  tablespoons  of  melted  butter.  Season  the 
potatoes,  add  milk  and  butter  and  beat  till  light  and  creamy.  Put 
back  carefully  into  half  skins,  rounding  neatly  with  a  knife  dipped 
in  milk.  Put  in  oven  and  brown  quickly. 

Maitre  cT  Hotel  Potatoes.  Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  cubes 
and  season.  Make  a  cream  or  milk  sauce,  put  potatoes  into  part  of 
sauce,  place  in  a  greased  baking  dish,  cover  with  the  remainder  of 

68 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY  69 

sauce.  Heat  and  brown  slightly  in  a  hot  oven;  sprinkle  with 
chopped  parsley  and  serve.  Potatoes  prepared  in  this  way,  using 
brown  sauce  instead,  with  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice,  are  very  good. 
Plain  boiled  potatoes  may  be  pleasantly  varied  by  adding  a  bay 
leaf  when  cooking. 

Escallope  Potatoes.  Slice  raw  potatoes,  lay  in  cold  water  fifteen 
minutes.  Put  a  layer  of  potatoes  into  a  well  greased  baking  dish, 
then  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  bits  of  butter,  another  layer 
of  potatoes  until  two-thirds  full,  then  pour  in  cold  milk  to  nearly 
fill  the  dish.  Put  in  the  oven  and  cook  covered  one  hour.  They 
will  be  creamy  if  cooked  in  moderate  oven. 

Potatoes  au  Gratin.  Cut  six  cold  boiled  potatoes  in  dice.  Melt 
two  tablespoons  of  butter,  add  two  tablespoons  of  flour,  pour  on  one 
cup  of  hot  stock  and  one  cup  of  hot  milk  slowly.  Add  four  heaping 
tablespoons  of  grated  cheese,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put  a 
layer  of  potato  in  a  dish,  then  some  sauce,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used. 
Sprinkle  with  crumbs  and  brown  in  the  oven. 

A  Southern  Dish.  Cut  cold  baked  sweet  potatoes  into  quarter- 
inch  slices,  and  put  them  In  an  earthen  dish.  Spread  each  layer 
with  butter,  and  sprinkle  with  sugar.  Bake  until  hot  and  slightly 
browned. 

Scalloped  Potatoes.  Six  large  potatoes,  one-half  pound  salt 
pork,  one  teaspoon  salt,  one-half  teaspoon  pepper.  Slice  the  pota- 
toes and  soak  in  cold  water  twenty  minutes.  Cut  the  pork  in  thin 
slices  and  freshen  in  cold  water.  Put  alternate  layers  of  pork  and 
potatoes  in  a  baking  dish  and  sprinkle  with  seasoning.  The  pork 
should  be  at  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  dish.  Cover  the  dish  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  thirty  minutes.  Remove  the  cover 
and  bake  twenty  minutes  longer. 

Potatoes  with  Bacon.     Eight  potatoes,  eight  strips  of  bacon, 


70  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

one-half  saltspoon  of  pepper.  Wash  and  peel  the  potatoes,  then 
with  an  apple-corer  take  a  piece  out  of  the  potatoes  from  end  to  end, 
draw  through  the  holes  the  strips  of  bacon  well  seasoned  with  pep- 
per. Bake  in  an  earthen  dish. 

Boiled  Potatoes.  Select  potatoes  of  uniform  size.  Wash  and 
scrub  them.  Pare  and  cover  with  cold  water.  Put  them  into  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  salted  water.  Cook-  half  an  hour  or  until  soft. 
Drain  off  every  drop  of  water.  Place  the  saucepan,  uncovered,  at 
the  back  of  the  stove  to  let  the  steam  escape.  Shake  gently.  Serve 
hot. 

Mint  Sauce  for  Lamb.  One  cup  of  fresh  mint,  one-quarter  cup 
of  brown  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  vinegar.  Pick  off  the  leaves,  chop 
them,  add  the  vinegar  and  sugar,  if  the  vinegar  is  too  strong  add  a 
little  water  or  more  sugar.  Make  about  one-half  hour  before  needed. 

Rice  Potatoes.  Boil  potatoes,  press  them  through  a  tin  ricer  into 
a  hot  dish. 

Mashed  Potatoes.  To  one  pint  of  hot  boiled  potatoes  add  one 
tablespoon  of  butter,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  a  speck  of  pepper  and 
enough  hot  milk  to  moisten. 

Mash  in  the  saucepan  in  which  they  are  boiled;  beat  with  a  fork 
till  light  and  creamy.  Turn  out  lightly  on  a  hot  dish. 

Potato  Cakes.  Make  cold  mashed  potatoes  into  round  cakes 
about  one-half  inch  thick.  Put  into  a  baking  tin  and  brush  over 
with  milk.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  till  a  golden  brown. 

Potato  Souffle.  Prepare  mashed  potatoes,  adding  a  little  celery, 
salt  and  chopped  parsley ;  beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ; 
add  a  little  salt.  Turn  into  a  baking  dish,  pile  in  a  rocky  form, 
bake  ten  minutes,  until  brown. 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY  71 

A  very  attractive  dish  is  mashed  sweet  and  white  potatoes,  served 
together;  put  first  a  strip  of  the  white,  the  width  of  the  dish,  then 
one  of  the  yellow,  and  so  on,  until  the  dish  is  full. 

Never  smooth  mashed  potato.     Pile  it  lightly  up. 
Cook  scalloped  potatoes  an  hour  in  a  hot  oven  in  a  pudding  pan. 
Soak  cauliflower  one-half  hour  before  cooking,  head  downward  in 
salted  water. 

Make  potato  salad  of  yesterday's  and  to-day's  potatoes. 

French  Potatoes  in  Brown  Butter.  Peel  potatoes  and  lay  in 
cold  water,  scoop  into  round  balls  with  French  cutter.  Put  them 
into  boiling  salted  water,  parboil  them,  remove  with  a  skimmer,  par- 
tially cool,  brown  in  hot  butter;  add  a  little  onion  juice.  These 
make  a  very  pretty  garnishing  for  stews  and  entrees. 

Saratoga  Potatoes.  Slice  raw  potatoes  very  thin,  let  lay  in  ice 
water  one  hour.  Have  the  deep  fat  smoking  hot.  Heat  wire  frying 
basket,  remove  potatoes  and  dry  quickly  in  cloth,  put  them  into  the 
frying  basket  a  few  at  a  time,  plunge  into  boiling  fat,  fry  a  light 
brown.  Put  on  brown  paper  to  absorb  the  fat,  and  set  in  the  oven 
to  dry  off  a  few  moments.  Heat  fat  again  and  fry  remainder  of  the 
potatoes,  spread  on  fresh  brown  paper  and  dry  as  before.  The  suc- 
cess of  these  potatoes  depends  altogether  on  the  heat  of  the  fat. 

Green  Peas.  Peas  are  fresh  when  the  pods  are  green  and  crisp. 
The  fresh  pods  are  sweet  and  nutritious.  Wash  the  pods  before 
shelling.  Put  the  peas  in  a  colander.  Pour  over  them  a  little  cold 
water.  Put  the  pods  in  boiling  water,  cook  them  ten  minutes,  take 
them  out  with  a  skimmer,  add  the  peas,  cook  twenty  minutes,  or 
until  tender.  When  half  done  add  the  salt.  Put  into  a  hot  vege- 
table dish,  allowing  one  tablespoon  of  butter  to  each  quart  of  peas, 
or  make  a  thin  white  sauce  and  add  to  the  peas.  To  keep  peas  green 
cook  with  the  cover  off,  or  add  a  speck  of  soda.  The  French  way  of 


72  PROGRESSIVE     COOKERY 

cooking  peas  is  to  add  while  boiling  a  bouquet  or  two  or  three  leaves 
of  mint.  If  peas  are  not  sweet  add  a  little  sugar  while  cooking. 
For  a  change  cut  carrots  in  dice,  cook  and  add  to  the  peas.  Serve 
in  white  sauce. 

String"  Beans.  Wash,  break  off  the  stem,  and  pull  off  the  string 
at  the  side  of  each  bean,  break  off  the  end,  and  string  on  the  other 
side.  Cut  in  inch  pieces,  or  cut  lengthwise  in  narrow  strips.  Boil 
the  same  as  peas.  Cook  one  hour. 

Asparagus.  Wash,  tie  in  bundles,  cut  off  jagged  ends.  Put  in  a 
stewpan,  throw  over  salt,  cover  with  boiling  water  ;  boil  from  twenty 
minutes  to  half  an  hour.  Serve  with  white  sauce,  or  mayonnaise 
dressing,  or  on  buttered  toast,  covering  ends  with  one  tablespoon  of 
melted  butter  ;  or  thicken  the  liquid  the  asparagus  has  been  boiled  in 
with  flour  and  butter  blended  together,  allowing  one  tablespoon  of 
butter  and  one  of  flour  to  each  large  bunch. 

Succotash — Green  Corn.  One  pint  of  shelled  beans,  one  pint  of 
green  corn,  after  it  has  been  cut  from  the  cob.  Put  the  corn  and  cobs 
in  boiling  water,  cook  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Cook  lima  beans 
one-half  hour,  add  the  corn,  season  with  one  teaspoon  of  salt  and  a 
saltspoon  of  pepper  ;  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  one-half  cup  of  cream. 
Green  corn  becomes  tough  if  cooked  too  long.  Cook  corn  on  the  cobs 
the  same  length  of  time.  Serve  in  a  napkin  folded  over  the  corn. 

Beets.  Wash  beets,  put  them  in  boiling  water,  boil  from  one  to  one 
and  one-half  hours.  Throw  them  into  cold  water,  and  the  dark, 
thick  skin  will  rub  off.  Cut  in  slices,  place  in  hot  serving  dish,  put 
on  pieces  of  butter,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Or  cut  in  slices, 
and  when  cold  pour  over  vinegar.  Add  a  little  vinegar  to  cooked 
beets  before  putting  over  butter,  if  cared  for. 

Carrots — Turnips.  Scrape  carrots  before  boiling.  Boil  from  one 
hour  to  two  hours.  Peel  turnips,  boil  one  hour,  mash,  add  butter 
and  salt  and  pepper. 


PROGKKHS1VK    COOKERY  73 

Lettuce.  Lettuce  grown  in  hot-house  should  not  be  washed,  hut 
that  grown  in  the  garden,  on  account  of  the  grit,  must  be  washed. 
Do  not  chop  lettuce. 

Onions  Baked.  Remove  outer  skin,  cut  out  hard  part  at  one  end, 
put  into  the  hollow  a  piece  of  butter,  some  pepper  and  salt  ;  bake  in 
a  buttered  pan  from  one  to  one  and  one-half  hours. 

Boiled  Onions.  Cook  one  hour  in  boiling  salted  water.  Put  into 
hot  dish,  remove  the  hard  part  at  end,  put  a  piece  of  butter  in  each 
one,  pepper  and  salt  ;  put  on  the  hot  cover  and  serve,  or  serve  with 
white  or  brown  sauce. 

Baked  Tomatoes.  Chop  two  tablespoons  of  lean  ham,  two  mush- 
rooms, one  small  shalot,  one  tablespoon  of  parsley,  one  tablespoon  of 
cheese,  one  teaspoon  of  bread  crumbs  ;  season,  mix  with  one  egg. 
Remove  a  little  of  the  center,  and  stuff  the  tomatoes  ;  stew  with 
bread  crumbs,  add  bits  of  butter,  bake  until  brown.  Serve  with  any 
sauce  preferred. 

Baked  Cauliflowers.  Boil  a  small  cauliflower  in  water  enough 
to  cover  it  with  the  flower  part  down  until  tender,  having  one  tea- 
spoon of  salt  in  the  water.  When  the  cauliflower  is  boiled  suffic- 
iently put  it  in  a  baking  dish  and  cover  with  cream  sauce  ;  sprinkle 
with  English  dairy  cheese  grated  ;  bake  until  light  brown.  Be  care- 
ful to  have  cauliflower  whole.  Cauliflower,  cabbage  and  artichokes 
should  lay  in  cold  salted  water  before  cooking.  A  piece  of  charcoal 
added  to  the  water  while  cauliflower  is  cooking  will  prevent  any  odor. 

Spinach.  Wash  thoroughly,  then  each  leaf,  carefully.  Then  drain 
in  a  colander.  Put  on  to  cook  without  water,  sprinkle  with  salt. 
Cover  tightly  and  cook  fifteen  minutes,  chop  fine  in  tray,  add  one 
tablespoon  of  butter,  a  grating  of  nutmeg.  Return  to  kettle  and  heat, 
take  up  with  skimmer  into  a  hot  dish.  Garnish  with  hard  boiled 
eggs. 


,4  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Artichokes.  Boil  in  salted  water  one-half  hour,  remove  a  few  of 
the  outer  leaves  ;  serve  hot,  with  mayonnaise  dressing. 

Egg  Plant.  Cut  the  plant  in  slices  one-third  of  an  inch  thick, 
with  or  without  peeling,  sprinkle  salt  over  each  slice,  pile  them,  and 
cover  with  a  weight  to  press  out  the  juice.  Drain  and  dip  each  slice, 
first  in  fine  bread  crumbs,  then  in  beaten  egg,  again  in  crumbs,  and 
fry  in  hot  fat. 

Mushrooms  Stewed.  Peel  the  top  and  stalk,  break  in  small  pieces, 
place  them  in  a  stewpan,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  let  them 
stand  half  an  hour,  until  juice  is  drawn  out.  Add  a  tablespoon  of 
butter  ;  cook  until  tender,  add  cream  to  cover,  and  when  cream  is 
hot  serve  on  toast. 

Stewed  Cucumbers.  Pare  the  cucumbers,  cut  them  into  quarters, 
remove  the  seeds,  soak  in  salted  water  one-half  hour.  Then  put 
them  in  salted  boiling  water  and  cook  until  tender.  Season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  butter  and  serve  on  toast.  They  will  cook  in  half 
an  hour. 

Fried  Cucumbers.  Pare  good-sized  cucumbers,  lay  in  cold  or  ice 
water  one-half  hour.  Then  slice  lengthwise  one-quarter  inch  thick, 
sprinkle  slices  with  salt,  let  stand  fifteen  minutes.  Wipe,  roll  in 
flour,  fry  very  brown  in  hot  fat.  Serve  on  hot  napkin. 

Tomatoes.     Fry  sliced  tomatoes  in  hot  sweet  oil. 
Cabbage.     Try  cabbage  cooked  same  as  cauliflower. 

Fried  Bananas.  Cut  bananas  lengthwise  and  fry  brown  in 
butter. 

Rice  d  la  Carolina.  To  one  cup  of  nice,  well-washed  rice,  allow 
three  cups  of  boiling  water.  Put  rice  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  water, 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  75 

and  one  teaspoon  of  salt.  Boil  rapidly,  occasionally  stirring  with  a 
fork,  when  the  water  disappears  cover  the  pot  with  a  cloth  and  place 
at  back  of  the  stove,  or  where  only  heat  enough  will  be  obtained  to 
slowly  steam  the  rice.  Boil  without  a  lid. 

Boiled  Rice.  Three  quarts  of  boiling  water,  two  and  one-half 
tablespoons  of  salt,  one  cup  of  rice.  Have  water  boiling  very  fast ; 
put  in  the  rice,  and  cook  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  without  stirring. 
When  soft  drain  off  every  particle  of  water  and  let  it  stand  in  the 
colander  on  the  back  of  the  stove  till  dry. 

Chicken  Salad.  One  pint  of  cold  boiled  or  roasted  chicken,  one- 
half  pint  of  celery.  Cut  the  chicken  in  small  pieces.  Wash  and 
scrape  the  celery,  cut  in  small  pieces.  Mix  with  a  French 
dressing.  Put  away  on  ice.  Make  a  mayonnaise  dressing.  Mix  a 
part  with  the  chicken.  Pile  the  chicken  on  a  dish,  pour  the  rest  of 
the  dressing  over  it.  Garnish  the  top  with  cold  cooked  beets  cut  in 
fancy  shapes,  the  ends  and  sides  with  celery  leaves. 

Tomato  Salad.  Take  six  small  firm  tomatoes.  Put  them  into 
1  Killing  water  and  remove  the  skins.  Set  away  for  an  hour  to  get 
thoroughly  cool.  Then  scoop  out  from  the  center  of  each  tomato  a 
piece  the  size  of  a  hickory  nut.  Fill  with  mayonnaise  dressing.  Set 
each  tomato  on  a  lettuce  leaf,  adding  more  dressing.  Serve  individ- 
ually very  cold. 

Potato  Salad.  Four  boiled  potatoes  mashed  and  rubbed  through 
a  sieve.  Mix  one  saltspoon  of  mustard,  two  teaspoons  of  salt,  yolks 
of  two  hard  boiled  eggs,  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice,  add  slowly  four 
teaspoons  of  oil,  two  tablespoons  of  vinegar  and  one  tablespoon  of 
anchovy  sauce.  Mix  thoroughly  with  the  potato.  Garnish  with 
parsley  and  serve  very  cold,  or  cut  in  dice  and  serve  the  same  way. 

Lettuce  Salad.     When  served  as  a  salad,  put  the  dressing  on  the 


76  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

whole  leaves,  curl,  shell  shape,  serve  individually  or  pile  in  salad 
dish,  mix  and  cover  with  mayonnaise  dressing,  garnished  with 
boiled  beets  cut  in  fancy  shapes,  or  rings  of  whites  of  hard  boiled 
eggs. 

Shrimp  or  Crab  Salad.  Make  a  mayonnaise  dressing.  Mix  in 
the  shrimps,  spread  over  with  the  dressing  and  garnish  with  beets 
cut  in  fancy  shapes.  For  crab  salad  remove  the  meat  from  a  cooked 
crab,  chop  rather  fine,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  speck  of  cay- 
enne pepper  ;  mix  and  cover  with  mayonnaise  dressing  the  same  as 
above.  Or  lay  leaves  of  lettuce  around  the  dish  and  fill  with  the 
fish  or  shrimps,  mix  and  cover  with  the  dressing  and  garnish  with 
rings  of  eggs  or  beets  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 

Oyster  Salad.  One  quart  of  oysters,  one  pint  of  celery,  one-third 
cup  of  mayonnaise  dressing,  three  tablespoons  of  vinegar,  one  table- 
spoon of  oil,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-eighth  teaspoon  of  pepper, 
one  tablespoon  of  lemon  juice.  Let  the  oysters  come  to  a  boil  in 
their  own  liquor.  Skim  well,  and  drain.  Season  them  with  the  oil, 
vinegar,  pepper,  salt  and  lemon  juice.  When  cold  put  on  the  ice  for 
two  hours.  Wash  the  whitest  part  of  the  celery,  and  cut  in  very 
thin  slices.  Put  it  in  a  bowl  with  a  large  lump  of  ice.  At  serving 
time,  drain  the  celery,  and  mix  with  the  oysters  and  half  of  the 
dressing.  Pour  the  remainder  over  the  top,  and  garnish  with  white 
celery  leaves. 

Lobster  Salad.  Cut  into  cubes  enough  lobster  to  make  a  quart. 
Put  it  into  a  bowl,  and  mix  with  it  three  tablespoons  of  vinegar, 
one  tablespoon  of  oil,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  and  one-half  teaspoon  of 
pepper.  Put  on  ice  for  an  hour.  Wash  the  heart  leaves  of  four 
heads  of  lettuce,  place  in  a  dish  and  sprinkle  with  cracked  ice.  When 
ready  to  serve  stir  one-half  pint  of  mayonnaise  into  the  lobster.  Shake 
ice  and  water  from  the  lettuce  ;  form  the  leaves  into  shells  with  one 
tablespoon  of  lobster  in  each  shell  and  one  teaspoon  of  dressing 
on  top  of  lobster. 


PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY  77 

Asparagus  Salad.  Take  cold  boiled  asparagus,  pile  eight  stalks  ; 
plates  as  many  as  are  needed  and  put  a  tablespoon  of  Remoullde 
sauce  on  each  plate. 

Preserved  Pears  or  Other  Large  Fruits.  Wash,  pare,  quarter 
and  core  pears  of  uniform  size  ;  throw  them  into  cold  water  to  pre- 
vent them  from  turning  brown.  Fill  preserving  jars  neatly  with  the 
pears.  Set  them  in  a  nicely  scrubbed  wash  boiler  with  a  rack  on  the 
bottom,  add  cold  water  to  come  up  one-fourth  of  the  jars.  Make  a 
syrup  allowing  one  pint  of  granulated  sugar  to  a  quart  of  water,  tie 
up  in  a  piece  of  cheese  cloth,  six  cloves,  some  of  allspice,  a  small 
piece  of  cinnamon,  a  pinch  of  dried  ginger  ;  put  into  the  syrup, 
cook  the  syrup  ten  minutes,  pour  this  syrup  hot  into  the  jars  till 
they  overflow.  Put  on  the  cover  of  the  boiler  and  steam  twenty 
minutes.  Remove  the  jars,  screw  on  the  covers.  When  cold  screw 
them  again.  A  rack  can  be  made  of  laths  fitted  together  to  form 
squares. 


CAKES 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  CAKE  MAKING 

Read  all  recipes  carefully  before  commencing,  and  then  try  and 
remember  them,  having  your  book  before  you  to  refer  to.  Have  all 
materials  measured  before  commencing  to  mix,  the  pan  buttered, 
and  the  baking  powder  in  the  sifted  flour.  Beat  the  butter  to  a 
cream,  add  the  sugar  and  beat  again.  Then  add  the  beaten  yolks  of 
eggs  (if  there  is  milk  in  the  cake  put  it  into  the  bowl  the  eggs  have 
been  beaten  in);  add  alternately  the  milk  and  flour;  then  the  flav- 
oring. Stir  in  the  center  with  the  spoon  held  straight,  occasionally 
stirring  around  the  edges.  When  well  stirred  beat  vigorously. 
Now  add  the  well  beaten  whites,  folding  in  over  and  over.  Bake  the 
cake  as  soon  as  mixed.  For  sponge  cake  beat  the  yolks  ten  minutes, 
add  the  sugar  and  beat  again;  then  the  flour,  flavoring,  etc.,  and 
lastly  the  beaten  whites. 

Butter  the  tins,  and  for  thick  cake  put  in  a  strip  of  paper,  allow- 
ing it  to  come  an  inch  above  the  pan.  This  enables  you  to  lift  the 
cake  out  when  baked.  Or  cut  paper  the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  and  slightly  grease  again.  The  success  of  cake  depends  on  the 
baking  and  mixing.  To  bake  thick  cake  heat  your  oven,  then  partly 
close  the  dampers  and  add  more  coal.  If  too  hot,  leave  the  door 
open  until  the  oven  cools  off  a  bit,  then  close.  Put  in  your  cake  and 
cover  with  a  pan  the  same  size  as  the  one  your  cake  is  in.  Do  not 
open  the  door  for  half  an  hour,  if  possible;  should  you  open  it  be 
very  careful  to  open  gently.  Thin  cakes  will  bake  in  twenty  to 
twenty -five  minutes ;  larger,  in  proportion  to  size.  If  necessary  to 

78 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKKKV  79 

move  cake  do  it  very  carefully,  and  not  until  it  is  set  in  the  middle. 
When  cake  shrinks  from  the  sides  and  does  not  stick  to  a  wisp  of 
broom  when  inserted  into  the  center,  it  is  baked.  Do  not  take  from 
the  oven  too  quickly  or  the  cake  will  fall.  If  the  oven  be  too  hot 
the  cake  will  brown  before  rising.  When  it  rises  in  the  center, 
breaks  open  and  stays  up  it  is  too  stiff  with  flour.  It  should  first 
rise  around  the  edges,  then  in  the  middle.  Mix  cake  in  an  earthen 
bowl,  never  in  tin.  Use  the  best  materials,  the  finest  granulated 
or  powdered  sugar.  Eggs  must  be  fresh  and  cold.  When  making 
cake  it  is  best  to  use  a  Dover  egg  beater  for  beating  the  whites  of 
eggs.  For  meringue  and  egg-nog  beat  with  wire  beater  and  beat  on 
a  platter  with  a  long  motion,  slow  at  first,  then  quicker.  Put  a 
small  pinch  of  salt  on  the  platter  before  you  commence  to  beat,  for 
recipes  where  salt  is  called  for,  such  as  custards,  etc.  Yolks  can  be 
beaten  to  a  froth  in  ten  minutes.  Eggs  must  not  be  allowed  to 
stand  after  you  commence  to  beat  them,  or  they  will  return  to  liquid 
and  will  not  again  become  light.  Keep  eggs  in  a  cold  place,  and  if 
soiled  wash  them  before  putting  away.  Never  allow  an  egg  beater 
to  soak  in  water.  Wash  it  by  beating  in  the  water. 

California  flour  is  richer  than  Eastern  flour,  therefore,  in  cake 
making,  use  a  little  less  butter  than  the  recipes  call  for.  What  is 
called  pastry  flour  in  Eastern  cook-books  is  the  same  as  our  best 
roller  flour.  California  wheat  is  richer  and  more  nutritious;  there- 
fore, our  roller  flour  is  not  quite  so  dry  as  Eastern  pastry  flour. 

Citron  should  not  be  floured.  To  keep  citron  from  dropping  to 
the  bottom  of  cake  put  a  layer  of  cake  and  then  a  layer  of  citron, 
until  the  materials  are  used  up,  the  top  layer  being  cake.  This 
applies  to  deep  cakes.  Pick  currants  over  carefully,  wash  and  dry 
in  a  cloth ;  set  in  moderate  oven  to  dry  thoroughly  before  putting  in 
the  jar.  Stone  raisins,  put  in  jars  and  set  away  for  use,  so  that  in 
making  cakes,  etc.,  they  may  be  in  readiness.  If  you  cannot  have 
full  control  of  the  stove  do  not  attempt  to  make  cake.  Stir  with 
a  wooden  spoon.  Currants  and  raisins  must  be  floured  before  using, 


80  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

or  they  will  drop  to  the  bottom  of  cake.  Beating  cake,  etc.,  beats  in 
the  air.  If  well  beaten  whites  are  added  last  beat  cake,  and  then 
fold  in  the  whites  over  and  over,  but  do  not  stir. 

BAKING  POWDERS 

Pure  baking  powders  are  soda  and  cream  of  tartar  mixed  in  the 
proper  proportions,  combined  with  rice  flour,  corn  starch,  or  some 
harmless  ingredient  to  insure  keeping.  Cream  of  tartar  is  often 
mixed  with  a  white  earth  that  the  unexperienced  cannot  detect. 
Soda  being  less  expensive  is  not  so  much  adulterated.  Consequently 
the  using  of  soda  and  cream  of  tartar  is  objectionable.  Pure  baking 
powder  can  be  had.  I  get  the  best  results  from  Dr.  Price's  Baking 
Powder.  Ammonia  in  baking  powder  causes  the  big  holes  and  dry 
cake  and  biscuit,  instead  of  light,  flaky  cake  and  biscuit. 

Water  Sponge  Cake.  One  egg,  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  one  tea- 
spoon of  lemon  juice,  three  tablespoons  of  cold  water,  two-thirds  cup 
of  flour,  one  even  teaspoon  of  baking  powder.  Beat  the  yolk,  then 
add  sugar  and  beat  again,  add  the  lemon  juice  and  water,  then  the 
flour  in  which  the  baking  powder  has  been  mixed,  lastly  the  white 
beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  shallow  pans.  Put  jelly  between  the  layers 
and  ice  with  boiled  icing. 

Sponge  Cake.  One  cup  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  flour,  three  eggs, 
thre*e  tablespoons  of  milk,  two  teaspoons  of  yeast  powder.  Mix  as 
directed  in  Water  Sponge  Cake. 

Lady  Fingers,  or  Sponge  Drops.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs 
ten  minutes,  add  one-half  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  flavoring,  beat  in 
three-quarters  of  a  cup  of  the  best  roller  flour,  put  one-half  saltspoon 
of  salt  in  a  dish  and  add  the  whites,  beaten  stiff  and  dry.  Fold  into 
the  yolks  and  flour.  Pour  this  mixture  through  a  funnel  made  of 
white  letter  paper,  press  on  buttered  tins  about  three  inches  long, 
and  less  than  one  inch  wide,  or  drop  by  spoonfuls  on  buttered  tins, 
sprinkle  over  powdered  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  Stick  to- 
gether with  white  of  egg. 


PROGUKSSIYK    COOKERY  81 

Diamond  Sponge  Cakes.  Any  good  cake  will  do  for  these,  but 
sponge  is  preferable.  Bake  an  inch  thick  in  square  tins.  Cut  dia- 
mond shape,  frost  with  violet,  green  and  pink  and  white;  flavor 
with  violet,  pistachio,  rose  water  and  lemon.  The  effect  is  very 
pretty. 

Old  Time  Sponge  Cake.  The  weight  of  twelve  eggs  in  bar  or 
powdered  sugar.  Weight  of  six  eggs  in  flour,  rind  and  juice  of  one 
lemon.  Beat  the  yolks  very  light,  add  the  sugar  and  flour  altern- 
ately and  slowly,  stirring  in  the  center  and  occasionally  round  the 
Bfl  with  a  knife,  then  add  the  lemon  juice  and  rind,  last  of  all  stir 
in  the  flour.  All  the  stirring  must  be  done  slowly  and  gently. 
Hake  in  a  moderate  oven  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Prepare  the  fire 
and  have  the  oven  right  heat  and  gradually  increase  the  heat  a  little 
by  opening  dampers  to  stove.  Bake  in  thick  round  tins  with  a 
tube. 

Baba  au  Rhum.  One  pint  of  flour,  one  cake  of  yeast,  ten  ounces 
of  sugar,  one  pound  of  flour,  four  eggs,  one-half  pint  of  rum,  four 
ounces  of  butter.  Make  a  batter  of  the  flour,  yeast,  adding  a  little 
salt.  When  light  add  the  sugar,  well  beaten  eggs  and  melted  but- 
ter; beat  well.  Put  in  a  deep  round  pan,  with  a  tube  to  rise.  Bake 
one  hour.  Heat  the  rum  with  two  tablespoons  of  sugar,  and  pour 
slowly  over  the  cake  till  all  is  absorbed.  Mask  with  melted  currant 
jelly.  H,i  vc  chopped  blanched  pistachio  nuts  and  almonds  and  orna- 
ment. 

Chocolate  Cake.  One  and  two-thirds  cup  of  sugar,  two-thirds 
of  a  cup  of  butter,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  milk,  three  eggs,  two  and 
two  thirds  cups  of  flour,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  grated  chocolate,  one 
teaspoon  of  cinnamon,  one-half  teaspoon  of  cloves,  two  teaspoons  of 
baking-powder,  one-half  cup  of  blanched  almonds.  Cream  the  butter 
and  sugar,  add  the  beaten  yolks,  then  the  milk,  chocolate  and  spices, 
and  flour  into  which  the  baking-powder  has  been  added,  and  lastly 


82  PROGRESS  I YK    COOKERY 

the  beaten  whites.  Put  into  a  deep  pan,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Bake  one  hour  without  disturbing,  then  try  with  a  wisp  of  a  broom  ; 
if  the  wisp  is  dry,  keep  in  a  short  time  longer,  them  remove.  Let  it 
stand  a  time,  turn  on  to  a  sieve,  then  put  on  a  plate.  Have  almonds 
blanched,  dried,  not  browned,  and  chopped  a  little.  Cover  with  frost- 
ing into  which  the  almonds  have  been  added.  A  mottled  cake  can 
be  made  of  the  same  cake  mixture  by  putting  the  chocolate  and 
spices  in  half  the  mixture  adding  one-third  of  a  cup  of  chopped 
almonds.  Bake  as  directed.  This  is  a  good  recipe  for  layer  cake, 
omitting  chocolate,  etc. 

Cup  Cake.  One  cup  of  sugar,  a  piece  of  butter  size  of  an  egg,  one- 
half  cup  of  milk,  two  eggs,  two  cups  of  flour,  flavor  to  taste,  one 
teaspoon  of  baking  powder.  This  will  make  twelve  cakes,  baked  in 
gem  pans. 

Citron  Cake.  Two  and  one-half  cups  of  sugar,  one  scant  cup  of 
butter,  five  eggs,  one  cup  of  milk,  four  cups  of  flour,  two  teaspoons  of 
baking  powder,  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  citron.  Cream  butter, 
add  sugar,  cream  again,  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  and  milk,  flour, 
and  baking  powder  ;  lastly  whites  beaten  stiff.  Have  citron  finely 
cut  ;  butter  and  line  a  dish  or  pan,  put  in  a  layer  of  cake  one  inch 
thick,  then  a  layer  of  citron,  until  cake  material  is  used  up.  Bake  in 
moderate  over.  Or  omit  citron,  and  add  one-half  a  grated  nutmeg. 

Quick  Cake.  Sift  together  one  and  one-half  cups  of  flour  and 
two  teaspoons  of  baking  powder.  Add  one  cup  of  sugar  ;  beat  three 
eggs  and  add  it  to  one-half  cup  of  milk,  pour  into  the  flour  and  sugar, 
stir  well,  last  pour  in  two  heaping  tablespoons  of  melted  butter  and 
stir  all  well.  Flavor  to  taste. 

Lemon  Wafers.  Two  cups  sugar,  one  cup  of  butter,  two  eggs,  one- 
half  teacup  of  sour  milk,  one-half  teaspoon  of  soda,  lemon  essence  and 
flour  to  roll  very  thin. 


83 

Ice  Cream  dike.  One  -half  cii]iof  butter,  one  and  one-half  cups 
of  sugar.  t\v»>  cups  of  flour,  one-half  cup  of  milk,  white  of  five  eggs, 
two  level  teaspoons  of  linking  powder,  one-half  teaspoon  of  vanilla 
extract.  Cream  the  hutter,  add  sugar  gradually,  then  vanilla,  milk, 
and  the  well-beaten  whites  ;  lastly,  stir  in  quickly  and  well  the  flour 
and  baking  powder  sifted  together.  Put  in  four  round,  small  haking 
pans  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes.  When 
the  cakes  are  cold,  make  a  boiled  icing,  put  part  between  the  layers, 
and  then  spread  the  rest  all  over  the  cake. 

Porcupine  Cake.  Beat  the  whites  of  five  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  gradually  beat  in  three-fourths  of  a  cup  of  granulated  sugar, 
after  first  sifting.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  very  light,  and  add 
to  the  whites  and  sugar.  Add  one-half  teaspoon  of  orange  extract, 
and  then  stir  one-half  cup  of  flour  (in  which  one-half  teaspoon  of 
cream  tartar  has  been  sifted),  and  mix  quickly  and  well.  Bake  in  a 
slow  oven,  in  a  pan  with  a  tube.  Filling  :  one-half  cup  of  milk, 
one  teaspoon  of  cornstarch,  about  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  and  yolks 
of  two  eggs  ;  flavor  with  lemon.  When  the  cake  is  baked  fill  the 
cavity,  and  cover  with  stiff  frosting.  Blanch  a  pound  of  almonds 
by  pouring  boiling  water  over  them,  let  stand  awhile,  remove  the 
skins,  and  when  icing  is  nearly  dry  stick  almonds  in  top  and  sides. 

Cocoanut  Cake.  Grate  one  cocoanut  ;  one-half  cup  of  powdered 
sugar,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  butter,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  milk, 
one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  corn  starch,  one-half  a  cup  of  flour,  whites 
of  two  eggs,  one-half  teaspoon  of  cream  of  tartar,  one-quarter  tea- 
spoon of  soda.  Cream  butter  and  sugar,  add  milk  and  soda,  then 
flour,  corn  starch  and  soda  (mixed),  alternately  with  the  beaten 
wliites.  Bake  in  a  round,  deep  pan  thirty-five  to  forty  minutes. 
Remove  from  the  pan,  and  when  nearly  cold  cut  carefully  around  the 
edge,  half  way  between  the  top  and  the  bottom,  break  open,  spread 
in  the  filling,  put  on  the  cake  cover.  Pour  boiled  icing  over  the  top. 
Spread  all  over  with  a  silver  knife  dipped  in  hot  water.  Throw  over 
the  rest  of  the  grated  cocoanut. 


84  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Filling  for  Cake.  Yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar, 
rind  and  juice  of  one  large  lemon,  one  cup  of  grated  cocoanut.  Beat 
the  eggs  well,  and  mix  with  the  other  ingredients.  Boil  fifteen  min- 
utes, then  beat  until  creamy.  Ice,  and  cover  with  grated  cocoanut. 

White  Cake.  Two-thirds  cup  of  butter,  two  cups  of  powdered 
sugar,  one-half  cup  of  milk,  two  and  one-half  cups  of  roller  flour, 
two  teaspoons  of  baking  powder,  whites  of  eight  eggs,  saltspoon  of 
cream  tartar,  one  teaspoon  of  peach  extract.  Rub  the  butter  and 
sugar  to  a  cream.  Mix  the  baking  powder  with  the  flour,  add  milk 
and  flour  alternately,  then  the  flavoring.  Add  to  the  whites  the 
cream  of  tartar,  beat  stiff  and  dry,  fold  in  carefully.  Bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  is  oblong  tins. 

Wedding  Cake.  One  pound  of  sugar,  one  pound  of  butter,  one 
pound  of  flour,  twelve  eggs,  one  teaspoon  each  of  cinnamon  and  all- 
spice and  cloves,  one-half  teaspoon  each  of  mace  and  nutmeg,  two 
pounds  of  raisins,  two  pounds  of  currants,  one  pound  of  citron,  one 
pound  of  almonds,  one  wineglass  of  brandy  and  one  lemon.  Line 
two  deep,  large  tins  with  three  thicknesses  of  paper,  and  butter  the 
top  paper  ;  blanch  and  chop  almonds,  seed  the  raisins,  have  currants 
well  washed  and  dry,  cut  citron  in  smallj  oblong  slices,  put  layer  of 
cake,  add  the  citron  till  all  is  used  ;  currants  and  raisins  mix  wTith 
flour  enough  to  coat  thoroughly.  Add  lemon  juice  and  rind  and 
brandy  to  creamed  sugar  and  butter,  then  the  beaten  yolks,  then 
beaten  whites,  and  lastly  the  flour  and  fruit.  Fill  pan  two-thirds 
full,  as  this  cake  does  not  rise  much.  Bake  three  hours  in  moderate 
oven. 

Pound  Cake.  Make  pound  cake  the  same  as  wedding  cake, 
using  ten  eggs  and  omitting  fruit  and  spices. 

Dorcas  Cake.  One-half  cup  butter,  two  cups  of  sugar  creamed 
together.  Whites  of  five  eggs  beaten  stiff,  two  cups  of  flour,  two  tea- 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKKKY  85 

of  baking  powder,  1  cup  of  milk.  For  frosting  use  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  stir  in  enough  powdered  sugar  to  make  stiff.  Add  the  juice 
and  rind  of  one  lemon.  Bake  in  two  layers  ;  spread  frosting  between 
and  over  the  cake. 

Sunshine  Cake.  Ten  eggs,  taking  only  five  yolks,  twelve  ounces 
of  granulated  sugar,  six  ounces  of  flour,  sifted,  five  teaspoonfuls  of 
orange  juice,  rind  of  half  an  orange,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tar- 
tar. Sift  the  flour  and  tartar  together.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
very  light;  add  the  sugar  gradually,  then  cut  the  yolks  with  a  broad 
Made  knife  into  these.  Add  the  flour  last,  cutting  it  also  with  a 
knife  very  lightly.  Bake  in  round  pans  with  a  tube  in  the  center. 
Line  the  bottom  of  pan  and  the  funnel,  heat  the  pan;  turn  in  the 
cake.  Bake  forty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  —  Miss  Marion  Davis, 

T'  nr/,1  /•  i,f 


Measure,  or  Fourth  Cake.  One  cup  of  butter,  two  of  sugar, 
three  of  flour  and  four  eggs,  with  a  very  little  saleratus  dissolved  in 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  or  two  of  milk  and  two  of  wine,  and  a 
little  nutmeg.  To  have  cake  light  and  fine  the  eggs  should  be  well 
beaten  .  yolks  and  whites  separately,  and  stirred  in  lightly  after  hav- 
ing rubbed  tbe  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream. 

Princess  or  Angel  Cake.  Whites  of  eleven  eggs,  one  and  one- 
lialf  cups  of  granulated  sugar,  one  cup  of  flour,  one  teaspoon  of  cream 
of  tartar,  one-half  teaspoon  of  almond  or  vanilla.  Beat  eggs  to  a 
froth;  sift  the  sugar  five  times;  sift  the  flour  four  times;  then  add 
the  cream  of  tartar  and  sift  again;  beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  together, 
add  the  flavoring,  then  the  flour;  stir  quickly  and  lightly.  Bake 
tbe  same  as  Sunshine. 

Brandy  Snap.  One  cup  sugar,  one  cup  flour,  one-half  cup 
molasses,  one-half  cup  of  butter,  one  teaspoon  ginger.  Mix  same  as 
cake.  Drop  on  tins  far  apart.  When  a  little  cool  try  to  turn  them 
up  with  a  knife;  roll  as  soon  as  removed  from  pan.  Keep  in  a  tin 
tightly  covered. 


86  PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY 

Rock  Cake.  One  cup  of  butter,  two  cups  flour,  one-half  large 
cup  sugar,  one  teaspoon  baking  powder,  two  eggs  beaten  separately, 
one-half  pound  citron  or  currants.  Warm  the  butter,  and  then  add 
the  flour  and  baking  powder.  Beat  the  yolks  and  add  the  sugar, 
then  the  beaten  whites  and  turn  into  the  flour  mixture;  lastly  the 
fruit.  Take  up  the  mixture  with  a  fork  and  drop  on  greased  pans 
in  rough  little  heaps  half  an  inch  apart.  Bake  ten  minutes  in  a  hot 
oven. 

Walnut  Wafers.  One  cup  of  brown  sugar,  one  cup  of  walnuts 
broken  in  small  pieces,  two  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt,  three  h eapi ng  table- 
spoons of  flour.  Drop  on  buttered  tins  and  bake  in  quick  oven  a 
few  minutes. 

Gold  Cake.  One-half  cup  of  butter,  one  and  one-half  cups  of  fine 
granulated  sugar,  yolks  of  four  eggs,  one  whole  egg,  one-half  cup  of 
milk,  one-half  teaspoon  of  mace,  two  teaspoons  of  baking  powder, 
two  and  one-half  cups  of  flour.  Mix  in  order  given. 

Silver  Cake.  One-half  cup  of  butter,  one  and  one-half  cups  of 
sugar,  one-half  teaspoon  of  almond,  one-half  cup  of  milk,  two  tea- 
spoons of  baking  powder,  two  and  one-half  cups  of  flour,  whites  of 
five  eggs.  Mix  in  the  order  given,  putting  baking  powder  in  flour, 
and  adding  milk  and  flour  alternately.  Bake  in  moderate  oven 
until  loaf  shrinks  from  pan.  Watermelon  cake  may  be  made  from 
this  recipe  by  using  red  sugar  in  the  gold  cake,  and  adding  one  cup 
of  raisins  seeded  and  rolled  in  flour.  Put  red  cake  in  center  of 
round  pan  and  white  around  it,  or  the  red  at  bottom  and  white  on 
top.  Bake  in  round  pan.  Another  way:  Bake  gold  and  silver  cake 
infancy  tins;  when  cold  break  open,  spread  with -lemon  butter. 
Frost. 

Coffee  Cake.  Make  any  cup  cake,  use  strong,  clear  coffee  instead 
of  milk.  Add  spices  and  fruit  to  taste. 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY  87 

Molasses  Ginger  Bread.  Add  to  two  cups  of  New  Orleans 
molasses  a  half  teaspoon  of  soda,  two  teaspoons  of  ginger;  melted 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg.  Beat  well.  To  a  cup  of  sour  milk  or 
cream  add  another  half  teaspoon  of  soda;  pour  into  molasses  mix- 
ture; add  a  beaten  egg  and  two  cups  and  one-half  of  sifted  flour. 
I>e: it  well,  and  bake  in  a  long  tin  in  a  slow  oven  half  an  hour. 

Apple  Cake.     Make  the  cup  cake  with  two  eggs,  add  one  cup  of 

chopped  a j >ples  and  one-half  teaspoon  of  the  extract  of  cinnamon. 

Venetian  Cakes.  One-quarter  pound  of  butter,  wash  free  from 
salt,  beat  to  a  cream,  and  add  one-quarter  pound  of  powdered  sugar, 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  one  cup  of  sliced  almonds,  five  or  six  ounces  of 
Hour.  The  paste  should  be  like  soft  biscuit  dough.  Dip  the  hand 
into  powdered  sugar,  break  off  pieces  of  dough,  and  roll  into  balls 
the  size  of  hickory  nuts.  Bake  in  quick  oven.  Stick  two  cakes  to- 
gether with  any  preferred  frosting. 

Banana  Cake.  Bake  any  light  cake  in  shallow  pans  as  for  cream 
or  jelly  cake.  When  ready  to  serve  (not  before),  cover  one  cake 
with  sliced  bananas,  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and  orange  juice. 
Put  on  the  other  cake  and  cover  in  the  same  manner. 

Nut  Cake.  Add  nuts  to  any  of  the  cake  recipes  given  except 
sponge.  Chop  any  kind  of  nuts  liked,  mix  them  into  the  cake,  put- 
ting whole  ones  over  the  frosting,  or  mix  chopped  nuts  into  frosting 
and  put  between  layers.  Ice  the  top  with  boiled  icing. 

Molasses  Ginger  Cakes.  One  cup  of  molasses,  one  cup  of  sour 
milk,  one  tablespoon  of  ginger,  one  even  teaspoon  of  soda,  one-half 
cup  of  butter,  flour  enough  to  roll  out.  Put  one-half  of  the  soda  in 
molasses  and  one-half  in  the  milk;  add  to  the  molasses  ginger  and 
butter  melted.  imt  /«>?,  beat  well  and  add  the  milk,  then  add  flour, 
and  roll  out  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Cut  with  a  biscuit  cut- 
ter. Bake. 


»8  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Orange,  Lemon  or  Pineapple  Cake.  Any  of  the  preceding 
white  cakes,  baked  in  layers,  may  be  used  for  banana,  orange,  lemon 
or  pineapple  cake,  frosting  and  ornamenting  with  the  same.  Ba- 
nanas should  be  sliced  and  sprinkled  with  sugar  a  short  time  before 
using.  Spread  the  layer  with  frosting,  then  a  layer  of  bananas, 
sliced;  let  stand  awhile  to  harden,  cover  with  a  layer  of  frosting; 
let  it  harden  again,  and  put  on  the  other  layer  of  cake.  Frost  and 
ornament  with  bananas. 

To  Prepare  Lemons,  Oranges  or  Pineapples  for  Layer  Cakes. 
Cut  four  lemons  or  oranges  into  thin  slices,  put  them  in  a  china  or 
earthen  bowl,  cover  with  two  quarts  of  cold  water  and  soak  over 
night.  In  the  morning  lift  them  carefully  from  the  water,  cover 
them  with  one-half  pound  of  sugar  and  one-half  pint  of  water,  cook 
very  slowly  for  three  hours,  then  drain  the  slices,  put  them  on  a 
meat  platter,  dust  with  granulated  sugar  and  stand  aside  to  cool. 
This  can  be  done  a  day  or  two  before  you  wish  to  use  them. 

Strawberry  Short-Cake.  One  pint  of  flour,  two  teaspoons  of 
baking  powder,  one  egg,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  milk,  one-third  of  a 
cup  of  butter,  one-half  a  teaspoon  of  salt.  Add  the  baking  powder 
and  salt  to  the  flour.  Beat  the  egg  and  add  the  milk  to  it.  Make  a 
hole  in  the  flour  and  stir  in  the  milk  and  egg.  Melt  the  butter  and 
stir  into  the  dough.  Spread  into  a  round  pan  and  bake.  Remove 
from  the  oven,  tear  open,  spread  lightly  with  butter,  pile  sweet- 
ened strawberries  over  the  top  and  garnish  with  whipped  cream,  or 
make  a  soft  dough  as  directed  for  biscuit,  and  prepare  as  above. 

Dutch  Apple  Cake.  One  pint  of  flour,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt, 
two  teaspoons  of  baking  powder,  one-quarter  cup  of  butter,  one  egg, 
one  scant  cup  of  milk,  four  sour  apples,  two  tablespoons  of  sugar. 
Mix  the  dry  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  rub  in  the  butter,  beat  the 
egg  and  mix  it  with  the  milk  and  stir  into  the  dry  mixture.  The 
dough  should  be  soft  enough  to  spread  half  an  inch  thick  on  a  shal- 
low baking  pan.  Core,  pare  and  cut  four  or  five  apples  into  eighths; 


PROGKKSSIVK    rooKKKY  S(J 

lay  tliem  in  parallel  rows  on  top  of  the  dough,  the  sharp  edge  down, 
and  j tress  enough  to  make  the  edge  penetrate  slightly.  Sprinkle  the 
sugar  en  the  apple.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  twenty  or  thirty  minutes. 
To  be  eaten  hot  with  butter  as  a  tea  cake,  or  with  lemon  sauce  as  a 
padding. 

Huckleberry  Ctikc.  Make  the  same  as  apple  cake,  substituting 
one  pint  of  huckleberries  sprinkled  with  flour  to  prevent  their  fall- 
ing to  the  bottom. 

Stilly  Liinn.     l~se  the  same  recipe,  omitting  fruit. 

Cold  Water  Icing.  One-half  cup  of  water,  mix  in  enough  pow- 
dered sugar  until  it  will  drop  from  the  spoon  like  a  stiff  batter. 
Flavor,  spread  on  the  top  of  the  cake  and  place  in  a  warm  oven  a 
few  mini 

Boiled  Icing.  Boil  two  cups  of  granulated  sugar  and  one-half 
cup  of  boiling  water  gently  for  ten  minutes.  When  it  spins  into 
threads  from  a  fork  pour  the  syrup  in  a  thin  stream  upon  the  well- 
beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  beating  constantly  until  of  right  thickness. 
Add  one-half  teaspoon  of  vanilla.  Do  not  stir  while  cooking. 

Frosting  No.  1.  White  of  one  egg,  one  cup  of  powdered  sugar, 
beat  white  of  egg  slightly,  adding  two  teaspoons  of  lemon  juice.  Add 
sugar,  hint  a-,  //;  the  longer  it  is  beaten  the  better  it  will  be. 

Old  Time-Frosting  No.  2.  White  of  one  egg,  beaten  stiff,  add  one 
and  one-half  cups  of  sifted  powdered  sugar,  gradually.  Beat  again. 
This  frosting  will  be  very  hard.  Flavor. 

Chocolate  Icing  No.  1.  Four  tablespoons  of  grated  sweet  choc- 
olate, two  tablespoons  of  brown  sugar,  one  teaspoon  of  prepared  gum 
Arabic,  three  teaspoons  of  milk:  boil  briskly  ten  minutes;  do  not 
stir  alter  it  boils.  Prepared  gum  Arabic  can  be  had  at  a  druggist's. 


90  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Chocolate  Icing  No.  2.  Three  grated  bars  of  chocolate,  two  eggs, 
one  teaspoon  of  corn  starch,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  sugar.  Put  all 
together,  set  on  the  stove,  and  stir  until  thick.  Spread  all  over 
cake. 

For  chocolate  deep  cake  chop  two  tablespoons  of  blanched  almonds 
and  add  to  the  frosting.  Frost  or  ice  by  pouring  on  the  center  of 
cake  and  spreading  with  a  silver  knife  dipped  in  hot  water. 

Chocolate  Frosting.  Whites  of  two  eggs,  two  cups  of  powdered 
sugar,  four  bars  of  sweet  chocolate,  grated. 

Chocolate  Frosting.  One  cup  of  granulated  sugar,  two  bars 
of  grated  chocolate,  one-fourth  cup  of  water ;  stir  all  over  the  fire  to 
a  thick,  smooth  paste. 

Cream  Cakes.  One  cup  hot  water,  one-half  teaspoonful  salt,  one- 
half  cup  butter,  one  and  one-half  cups  pastry  flour,  five  eggs,  yolks 
and  whites  beaten  separately.  Boil  the  water,  salt  and  butter. 
When  boiling  add  the  dry  flour,  stir  well  for  five  minutes,  and  when 
cold,  add  the  eggs.  This  is  such  a  stiff  mixture  many  find  it  easier 
to  mix  with  the  hand,  and  some  prefer  to  add  the  eggs  whole,  one  at 
a  time.  When  well  mixed  drop  in  tablespoon fuls  on  a  buttered  bak- 
ing-pan, some  distance  apart.  Bake  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  or  till 
brown  and  well  puffed.  Split  when  cool,  and  fill  with  cream. 

Cream  for  Cream  Cakes.  One  pint  milk,  boiled,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  cornstarch,  three  eggs,  well  beaten,  three-quarters  cup 
sugar,  one  saltspoonful  salt,  or  one  teaspoonful  butter.  Wet  the 
cornstarch  in  cold  milk,  and  cook  in  the  boiling  milk  ten  minutes. 
Beat  the  eggs;  add  the  sugar  and  the  thickened  milk.  Cook  in  the 
double  boiler  five  minutes.  Add  the  salt  or  butter,  and  when  cool, 
flavor  with  lemon,  vanilla  or  almond. 


PUDDINGS 


Sno\v  Balls.  Three  eggs,  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  one  scant  cup  of 
sifted  flour,  rind  of  one  lemon,  three  tablespoons  of  water,  two  table- 
spoons of  lemon  juice,  one  and  one-half  tablespoons  of  baking  pow- 
der. Beat  sugar  and  yolks  together  until  light,  add  water,  lemon 
juice  and  rind,  then  beaten  whites,  and  lastly  flour  and  baking  pow- 
der mixed.  Stir  quickly,  and  steam  in  buttered  earthen  cups 
three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or  bake  one-half  hour.  When  done  roll 
in  powdered  sugar.  Serve  with  strawberry  sauce. 

Chantilly  Pudding.  Five  eggs,  one  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  one 
cup  of  flour,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  orange,  one  teaspoon  of 
baking  powder  mixed  in  the  flour.  Beat  yolks  and  sugar  together 
until  light.  Add  orange  and  grated  rind,  and  beat  five  minutes 
longer.  Beat  whites  of  eggs  stiff,  stir  lightly  into  the  other  ingredi- 
ents. Add  floor,  stirring  lightly.  Turn  into  a  deep  border  mould, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  thirty-five  minutes.  When  baked,  let 
it  partially  cool  in  the  mould,  then  turn  out  on  a  flat  dish.  Spread 
one-half  pint  of  strawberry  preserves  in  center  of  the  cake.  Frost 
the  outside  with  pink  frosting.  Soak  one-quarter  package  of  gela- 
tine in  one-half  cup  of  cold  water  for  two  hours.  Put  a  pint  of 
cream  in  a  pan  placed  in  another  containing  ice  water.  Beat  stiff. 
Sprinkle  two  tablespoons  of  wine  and  one-half  cup  of  sugar  over  it. 
1'oiir  one-half  cup  of  boiling  water  on  soaked  gelatine,  and  stir  until 
all  is  dissolved.  Strain  this  liquid  over  the  cream.  Stir  from  the 
bottom  of  pan  until  mixture  is  so  thick  that  it  will  hardly  flow. 
Turn  instantly  into  the  center  of  cake.  Put  in  refrigerator  for  at 
least  an  hour  longer.  Ornament  with  chopped  blanched  pistachio 
nuts. 

91 


92  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Vanilla  Souffle.  One  and  one-third  cups  of  milk,  two  eggs,  one- 
half  teaspoon  of  vanilla,  a  pinch  of  salt,  two  tablespoons  of  flour, 
two  tablespoons  of  sugar.  Pour  gradually  one-half  of  the  milk  on 
the  flour.  Set  the  rest  of  the  milk  to  boil  in  double  boiler,  add  the 
flour  mixture,  cook  two  minutes.  Take  up,  add  the  well-beaten 
yolks,  beat  well,  then  add  the  beaten  whites.  Bake  in  a  buttered 
dish  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  Eat  with  fruit  sauce.  Serve 
immediately. 

Prune  Souffle.  Half  pound  of  prunes  boiled  in  a  very  little 
water.  Remove  the  pit  and  chop  very  fine;  beat  whites  of  five  eggs, 
add  prunes  and  half  a  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  put  all  in  buttered 
pan,  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  about  twenty  minutes  or  longer. 
AVhen  cold,  put  in  flat  dish  and  put  whipped  cream  around,  flavored 
with  a  little  wine — or  eat  hot  served  with  cream. 

Rum  Omelette.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  till  thick,  add  two 
tablespoons  of  milk.  Have  the  whites  beaten  stiff,  with  a  speck  of 
salt;  add  to  the  yolks.  Heat  frying-pan,  put  in  tablespoon  of  but- 
ter. Do  not  burn  the  butter.  Put  in  the  omelet;  when  it  is  set  fold 
over.  Put  in  hot  platter,  send  to  table, .pour  over  rum,  and  set 
it  on  fire.  Serve  with  fruit  sauce. 

Apple  Snowballs.  Boil  or  steam  one  cup  and  one-half  of  rice 
until  tender.  Peel  and  core  six  apples,  steam  or  boil  until  soft,  but 
not  break.  Wring  cheese  cloths  (one-third  of  a  yard  square)  out  of 
cold  water.  Take  heaping  tablespoon  of  rice,  place  in  center  of 
cloth,  flatten  out  with  the  ball  of  a  spoon  until  you  think  it  will 
cover  the  apple;  place  apple  in  center,  take  the  corners  of  cloth  in 
your  right  hand,  and  put  the  cloth  containing  rice  and  apple  in  your 
left.  Press  gently  the  rice  until  it  covers  the  apple.  Tie  the  corn- 
ers tightly,  put  in  boiling  water  and  boil  ten  minutes.  The  apples 
must  not  be  too  well  cooked  or  they  will  not  shape.  Untie  the  ends, 
roll  back  a  little,  take  two  ends  in  each  hand,  turn  carefully  on  to 
plate.  Serve  with  lemon  sauce. 


PROGKKSSIVK    rooKKKY  93 

Plain  Bread  Pudding.  Soak  stale  bread  in  skimmed  milk  until 
soft,  press  out  the  milk  and  beat  the  bread  fine;  add  one  tablespoon 
of  molasses,  one  teaspoon  of  ginger,  one-half  nutmeg  to  each  quart 
of  bread.  Sweeten  to  taste ^  chop  rind  of  one  orange  and  add,  throw 
over  a  few  currants.  Put  into  a  baking-dish  holding  one  quart, 
strew  with  drippings  or  butter.  Bake  one-half  hour  slowly.  Better 
cold  than  hot. 

English  Plum  Pudding.  Eight  eggs,  one  pound  of  flour,  one ' 
pound  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  suet,  one  pint  of  milk,  half  a  grated 
nutmeg,  one  teaspoon  of  ground  cloves,  two  teaspoons  each  oi  cinna- 
mon and  allspice,  one  pound  of  raisins,  one  pound  of  currants,  half 
a  pound  of  chopped  citron.  Flour  the  fruit  before  using.  Wet  a 
pudding-cloth  in  hot  water,  flour  well,  put  in  the  pudding,  tie 
loosely.  Boil  eight  hours. 

Batter  Pudding.  One  quart  of  milk,  one  pint  of  sifted  flour, 
four  eggs,  one  saltspoon  of  salt;  beat  the  eggs,  stir  into  the  milk, 
and  add  very  gradually  into  the  flour,  so  that  it  will  not  become 
lumpy;  add  the  salt;  beat  all  well.  Fill  a  well-greased  pudding 
dish  two-thirds  full,  and  put  into  a  pot  half  full  of  boiling  water.  It 
should  come  only  half  way  up  the  pudding  dieh.  Boil  one  hour  and 
a  quarter.  If  the  water  boils  away  add  more  boiliiiif  water.  If  the 
water  «/oy/>  boiling,  or  the  kettle  is  moved,  the  pudding  will  be 
heavy. 

Batter  Pudding  No.  2.  Six  eggs,  six  tablespoons  of  flour,  one 
saltspoon  of  salt  and  one  quart  of  milk.  Follow  the  same  directions 
as  given  in  the  previous  recipe. 

Bird's  Nest  Pudding.  Use  the  same  recipe  as  for  boiled  batter 
1  Bidding.  Peel  and  core  six  apples  that  will  cook  quickly;  lay  them 
in  a  baking-dish,  and  iill  the  cores  with  sugar  and  a  little  cinnamon; 
cover  with  the  batter,  and  cook  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  with  sauce. 


94  PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY 

Bread  Pudding.  Cut  the  crust  off  a  stale  five-cent  loaf  of  bread ; 
cut  in  thin  slices;  pour  milk  over  the  bread,  and  heat  until  the 
bread  has  soaked  up  the  milk;  stir  in  butter  the  size  of  an  egg;  let 
stand  until  cold ;  grate  in  one-fourth  of t a  nutmeg;  add  half  a  tea- 
spoon of  rose  water,  four  well  beaten  eggs.  Boil  in  a  cloth  which 
has  been  wet  in  hot  water,  and  sprinkled  Avith  flour.  Put  in  the 
pudding  and  tie  loosely  so  as  to  allow  space  to  swell.  Or,  fill  a  pud- 
ding mould  two-thirds  full,  and  boil  one  hour,  as  directed  in  batter 
pudding. 

Banana  Pudding.  Cut  sponge  cake  in  slices,  and,  in  a  glass 
dish,  put  alternately  a  layer  of  cake  and  a  layer  of  bananas  sliced. 
Make  a  soft  custard,  flavor  with  wine  (Sherry,  Port  or  Brandy),  and 
pour  over  it.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  add  a  tablespoon  of  sugar, 
and  heap  over  the  whole. 

Apple  Pot  Pie.  Six  apples  peeled  and  quartered,  and  one-half 
cup  of  sugar.  Make  a  dough  the  same  as  for  baking  powder  biscuit, 
using  one  quart  and  one  pint  of  flour.  Roll  out  one-half  of  the 
dough  lengthwise;  line  a  high  stew-pan  to  within  two  inches  of  the 
bottom  and  two  inches  of  the  top.  Pour  in  one  and  one-half  cups  of 
water,  then  the  sugar  and  apples ;  add  the  juice  of  one-half  lemon 
and  a  little  of  the  rind.  Have  the  other  half  of  the  dough  rolled  the 
size  of  the  top  of  the  stew-pan,  wet  the  edges  and  cover.  The  two 
inches  at  the  top  are  to  allow  space  for  the  dough  to  rise.  Let  it 
boil  one  hour.  Cut  the  cover  in  fourths,  remove,  dish  the  apples 
into  a  platter,  cut  the  side  crust  in  pieces,  lay  round  the  apples,  and 
cover  with  the  top  crust. 

German  Pudding.  One-half  cup  of  sugar,  two  and  one-half  cups 
of  flour,  one  cup  milk,  one-half  cup  of  butter,  three  eggs,  one  teaspoon 
of  baking  powder.  Beat  sugar  and  butter  to  a  cream,  add  yolks, 
then  the  stiffly  beaten  whites,  then  the  milk  and  flour.  Steam  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 


PfiOGBJSSBIVE   rookKKY  '.*.> 

Chiiinplnin  Pudding.  Butter  well  a  small  mould,  sprinkle 
two  tablespoons  of  sugar  over  butter,  then  spread  a  few  raisins  next 
slices  of  1  tread  with  the  crust  removed,  then  raisins  and  bread  alter- 
nately until  the  mould  is  nearly  full.  Make  a  custard  mixture  of 
one  pint  of  milk,  three  eggs',  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  flavor  with  lemon. 
Pour  over  the  bread.  Steam  tnx'-half  hour.  Serve  with  hard  sauce. 

Plain  Suet  Pudding.  One  pint  of  flour,  one  teaspoon  of  baking 
powder,  one  saltspoon  of  salt,  two  ounces  of  beef  suet  (four  table- 
spoons when  chopped),  cold  water  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Mix  the 
Hour,  baking  powder  and  salt;  add  the  chopped  suet  and  mix  it 
well.  Add  the  cold  water  gradually  to  form  a  soft  dough.  Grease  a 
mould  or  several  cups,  fill  to  within  an  inch  of  the  top,  and  cover 
with  greased  paper.  Put  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  enough  to 
come  half  way  up  the  mould.  Cover  the  kettle  and  steam  two  hours 
and  a  half  if  in  a  mould,  and  one  hour  if  in  cups.  Serve  with  sauce. 
A  richer  pudding  may  be  made  by  adding  a  tablespoon  more  suet, 
one  egg  and  one-half  teaspoon  each  of  spices  and  fruit,  using  milk 
instead  of  water. 

Roly  Poly.  Make  a  biscuit  dough;  roll  out  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
thick:  cover  with  two  cups  of  stoned  cherries,  or  any  fruit  preferred. 
Roll  up  like  jelly  rolled  cake.  Wring  out  a  cloth  in  hot  water,  and 
dredge  well  with  flour.  Lay  in  the  roll  and  fold  over  the  cloth 
loosely,  allowing  room  to  rise,  tie  both  ends,  plunge  into  boiling 
water.  Boil  one  hour  and  a  half.  Serve  with  molasses  sauce. 

Ginger  Suet  Pudding.  Add  to  the  plain  suet  pudding  one-fourth 
of  a  cup  of  molasses  and  one-fourth  of  a  tablespoon  of  ground  gin- 
ger. Serve  with  lemon  sauce. 

Amber  Pudding.  One  cup  of  bread  crumbs,  one-half  cup  of 
sugar,  three  tablespoons  of  melted  butter,  two  eggs  well  beaten,  four 
tablespoons  of  qrange  marmalade.  Stir  all  together.  Boil  in  a 
mould  one  hour.  Serve  with  snowdrift  sauce. 


96  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Graham  Flour  Pudding:  One-half  cup  of  molasses,  one-fourth 
cup  of  butter,  two  eggs,  one-half  cup  of  milk,  one-half  teaspoon  of 
soda,  one  and  one-half  cups  of  graham  flour  sifted,  one  cup  of  stoned 
raisins,  one  teaspoon  each  of  cinnamon  and  allspice,  one-half  tea 
spoon  of  cloves  and  one-half  nutmeg.  Melt  the  butter,  add  to  the 
molasses,  then  the  soda,  and  beat  well.  Add  the  beaten  eggs  and 
milk,  then  the  other  ingredients,  lastly  the  raisins  sprinkled  with 
flour.  Boil  three  hours.  Serve  with  any  sauce  preferred. 

Yorkshire  Pudding  for  Roast  Beef.  Two  eggs,  one  cup  of  milk, 
one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  flour.  Beat  the  eggs 
creamy,  add  part  of  flour,  then  part  of  milk,  gradually,  till  all  is  in; 
beat  ten  minutes  with  Dover  beater.  Pour  off  the  fat  from  roast 
beef;  add  the  pudding.  Bake  twenty  minutes. 

Pineapple  Pudding.  Two  cups  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  butter, 
pineapple  (chopped  or  grated),  yolks  of  six  eggs,  five  tablespoonsful 
of  bread  crumbs.  Mix  butter,  sugar  and  eggs  well  together,  add  the 
pineapple  (fresh  or  canned),  then  the  bread  crumbs  and  juice  last. 
Bake  half  an  hour  in  a  quick  oven.  Remove.  Have  a  meringue 
made  of  the  whites,  put  over  the  pudding,  put  back  in  the  oven  and 
brown.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

Boiled  Apple  Dumplings.  Make  baking  powder  biscuit.  Roll 
out  one-half  inch  thick,  cut  around  the  size  of  a  saucer;  have  your 
apples  peeled  and  cored,  and  the  core  filled  with  a  teaspoon  of  su- 
gar, one  clove,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter;  place  them  in  the  center 
and  pinch  the  edges  over  the  top.  Steam  two  hours,  or  tie  loosely 
in  pieces  of  cheese  cloth  and  boil  one  hour.  If  the  apples  are  soft 
such  as  greenings,  the  time  will  be  less.  Serve  with  a  sauce. 


DESSERTS 


y ;il Jelly.  Make  :m  orange  or  lemon  jelly,  using  a  tablespoon 
more  of  gelatine.  Strain  into  a  pitcher.  Place  a  mould  in  a  pan  of 
ice  and  water.  Pour  in  jelly  half  an  inch  deep;  when  hard,  put  in 
candied  fruit  in  a  fanciful  design — cherries  cut  in  halves,  and  angel- 
ica t«»  represent  leaves.  Fasten  each  piece  in  place  with  a  few  drops 
of  the  liquid  jelly,  and  when  hard,  add  jelly  to  cover  the  fruit. 
When  this  is  hard  place  a  small  Japanese  bowl  on  the  jelly,  and  fill 
with  ice.  Pour  the  remainder  of  the  jelly  between  the  two  moulds, 
adding  it  slowly,  and  dropping  in  fruit  here  and  there,  until  the 
mould  is  full.  When  the  jelly  is  all  firm  remove  the  ice  from  bowl 
and  add  /"/,-»>,  not  hot,  water  to  the  bowl,  and  take  it  out  carefully, 
without  breaking  the  wall  of  jelly.  Fill  the  space  with  Bavarian 
Cream.  Put  away  to  harden.  When  needed  set  the  mould  in  warm 
water  for  a  second,  and  turn  out. 

Bavarian  Cream.  One-quarter  box  of  gelatine,  one-quarter  cup 
of  cold  water,  one  pint  of  cream,  one-third  cup  of  sugar,  one  teaspoon 
of  vanilla.  Soak  gelatine  in  cold  water  until  soft.  Chill  and  whip 
<  ream  until  you  have  three  pints  of  the  whip.  Boil  remainder  of 
the  cream,  or  if  all  is  used,  one  cup  of  milk  with  the  sugar.  When 
boiling  add  the  soaked  gelatine,  stir  until  dissolved.  Strain  into 
bowl,  add  vanilla  or  lemon.  Place  bowl  in  ice  and  water,  stir,  and 
when  beginning  to  thicken,  stir  in  lightly  the  whipped  cream. 

Orange,  Lemon  or  Wine  Jelly.  One  box  of  gelatine,  one  quart 
of  boiling  water,  one  cup  of  sugar,  two  oranges,  one  lemon,  a  few 

97 


98  PROGRESSIVE     COOKERY 

cloves,  a  piece  of  cinnamon.  Cover  gelatine  with  cold  water;  soak 
two  hours,  add  cloves,  cinnamon,  the  juice  of  oranges  and  one  lemon, 
the  rinds  cut  in  small  pieces,  not  grated.  Pour  over  one  quart  of 
boiling  water,  gradually  stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved.  Add 
one  cup  of  wine.  For  orange  or  lemon  pour  over  one  quart  and  one 
cup  of  boiling  water.  Strain  through  four  thicknesses  of  cheese 
cloth  laid  over  a  strainer  or  sieve,  put  in  a  mould  set  to  cool ;  it 
should  be  amber  color.  Make  the  day  before  using,  or  let  it  stand 
in  ice  and  water  until  firm.  Serve  with  syllabub  cream ;  or  cut  in 
cubes  makes  a  very  pretty  effect.  Cut  oranges  in  halves,  remove 
the  pulp,  set  in  meal  to  keep  in  upright  position,  fill  with  partly 
cooled  jelly,  set  away  to  harden.  Cut  in  quarters  and  place  around 
jelly  when  dished,  or  serve  alone  without  cutting,  or  take  off  a  small 
piece  of  the  top  of  oranges,  remove  pulp  and  fill. 

Fruit  Jelly.  Soak  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  water  enough  to  cover, 
for  one  hour,  or  until  soft.  Pour  over  one  cup  of  boiling  water,  stir 
until  dissolved,  and  strain.  Take  one  quart  of  fruit  juice,  add  ;i 
drop  or  so  of  Price's  fruit  coloring  to  make  of  a  bright  color,  and 
stir  in  the  dissolved  gelatine.  Pour  into  a  fancy  mould.  Put  away 
in  a  cool  place,  or  place  in  ice  and  water  to  jelly.  Turn  out  when 
firm,  and  pile  in  the  center  and  around  the  sides  whipped  cream. 
This  is  very  nice. 

FRUIT  JUICE 

To  be  used  with  Fruit  Jelly. 

One  box  of  strawberries  or  raspberries;  hull  the  strawberries; 
mash  them  slightly,  then  heat  and  strain.  To  every  cup  of  juice 
add  three-quarters  of  a  cup  of  granulated  sugar;  stir  this  well,  and 
return  to  the  stove  and  heat  thoroughly.  Do  not  boil,  as  it  destroys 
color.  Put  away  in  jars,  as  before  directed. 

Snow  Pudding:     One-half  box  of  gelatine,  one-quarter  cup  of 


ri;or;|{|->SIVK    COOKKkY  99 

cold  water,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  boiling  water,  juice  of  one 
lemon,  whites  of  three  eggs.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  one 
hour,  then  dissolve  in  boiling  water,  add  sugar  and  lemon  juice,  stir 
until  all  is  dissolved,  strain  into  a  large  bowl  and  set  in  ice  water  to 
cool.  Stir  occasionally.  Beat  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth; 
when  the  gelatine  begins  to  thicken  add  beaten  whites  and  beat  all 
together  until  very  light.  When  nearly  stiff  pour  into  a  mould.  Or 
beat  until  stiff  enough  to  hold  its  shape,  and  pile  lightly  in  a  tall 
glass  dish.  Make  a  boiled  custard  of  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and 
serve  with  the  pudding. 

Apple  Sno\v.  Three  large,  tart  apples,  three  eggs,  one-half  cup 
of  powdered  sugar.  Steam  apples  (cored  and  quartered,  not  pared), 
then  rub  through  a  sieve.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add 
sugar  and  beat  again,  add  apple  and  beat  until  like  snow.  Serve 
with  boiled  custard. 

Ginger  Apples.  Make  a  syrup  of  four  pounds  of  sugar  and 
one  pint  of  water.  Chop  four  pounds  of  apples  and  one-fourth 
pound  of  green  ginger  root  fine  with  three  lemons.  When  the  syrup 
boils  add  the  apples  and  cook  till  clear;  put  into  glasses  or  pots. 

Apple  Dessert.  Pare  and  weigh  two  pounds  of  green  apples. 
Cut  them  in  small  pieces  and  drop  them  into  a  rich  syrup  made  of 
one-quarter  pound  of  sugar  and  one-half  cup  of  water.  As  soon  as 
the  syrup  begins  to  boil  add  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  large 
or  two  small  lemons.  Boil  till  the  apples  are  a  solid  mass.  Turn 
out  into  a  wet  mould  and  let  get  cold.  Serve  on  a  dish  surrounded 
with  boiled  custard.  Eat  with  cream. 

Baked  Apples  with  Stale  Bread.  Peel  and  core  apples  with  a 
fruit  corer.  Cut  slices  of  stale  bread  (without  crust)  about  one- 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  the  size  of  the  apples,  spread  with  butter, 
place  in  bake  pan.  set  apple  on  each.  Fill  the  hole  in  the  applet 


100  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

with  sugar,  drop  a  piece  of  butter  on  each  and  set  in  a  hot,  but  not 
quick,  oven.  When  about  half  done  fill  the  holes  again  with  sugar 
and  a  pinch  of  cinnamon.  Place  butter  on  top  as  before,  and  finish 
the  cooking;  serve  warm.  When  done  they  may  be  glazed  with 
apple  jelly  and  put  back  in  oven  for  two  minutes. 

Charlotte  Russe.  Take  six  round  charlotte  russe  tins  or  large 
shallow  cups.  Line  with  lady  fingers  dipped  in  white  of  egg;  should 
they  be  higher  than  the  mould  trim  them  off.  Put  a  pint  of  cream 
in  a  bowl,  set  in  pan  containing  broken  ice  and  water;  whip  cream 
until  stiff  with  a  soft  wire  egg  whisk,  slowly  at  first,  then  increase 
in  swiftness  until  it  is  a  stiff  froth,  sweeten  with  four  tablespoons  of 
powdered  sugar,  one  tablespoon  of  wine,  or  flavor  to  taste.  Add  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  stiff;  fold  in  carefully.  Fill  your  moulds 
compactly;  they  must  be  cold.  Let  stand  five  minutes,  turn  out  on 
six  dessert  plates,  "ornament  each  with  one  macaroon  and  a  few  can- 
died cherries  around  the  macaroon,  and  a  rim  of  syllabub  cream 
around  the  plates.  Charlotte  Russe  can  be  made  in  one  mould  with 
the  same  filling.  Line  the  mould  with  lady  fingers ;  ornament  with 
French  candies,  or  color  a  little  of  the  syllabub  cream  and  orna- 
ment. 

Charlotte  Russe  Filling  \vith  Gelatine.  One-quarter  of  a  box 
of  gelatine,  one  pint  of  cream,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  cold  water, 
two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  one  tablespoon  of  vanilla, 
one  tablespoon  of  wine,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  boiling  water.  Soak 
gelatine  in  cold  water  until  soft.  Chill  the  cream.  AVhip  cream, 
and  skim  off  into  a  granite  pan  set  in  ice  and  water.  Sift  powdered 
sugar  over  the  cream,  and  add  vanilla  and  wine.  Dissolve  the  gela- 
tine in  boiling  water,  and  strain  through  a  fine  strainer  over  whipped 
cream.  Then  stir  (not  beat)  rapidly  with  the  bowl  of  spoon  resting 
on  bottom.  Turn  the  pan  with  left  hand  while  stirring  with  the 
right.  If  it  feels  lumpy  lift  the  pan  from  the  ice  and  place  in  warm 
water  to  melt  the  gelatine.  Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  well  mixed  with 


PROGKKSSIVK    COOKKKY  101 

the  cream,  and  when  nearly  stiff  enough  to  drop  turn  it  into  a  mould. 
Set  on  ice,  and  when  ready  to  serve  turn  out  and  garnish  with  jelly, 
or  arrange  as  directed  above.  Tfii*  jiUiixi  may  Deserved  infancy 

paper  cases. 

To  Whip  Cream — Syllabub.  Place  a  howl  half  filled  with  cream 
into  a  pan  of  broken  ice  and  water.  When  very  cold  put  a  whip 
churn  into  cream  and  keep  the  cover  in  place  with  the  left  hand. 
Tip  the  churn  slightly,  that  the  cream  may  flow  out  at  the  bottom. 
\Vork  the  dasher  with  a  short  stroke  up  and  a  hard,  pushing  stroke 
down.  When  the  froth  appears  stir  it  down  once  or  twice,  as  the 
lirst  bubbles  are  too  large  ;  and  when  the  bowl  is  full  of  the  froth 
skim  it  off,  pile  on  a  sieve  placed  over  a  bowl.  Take  off  the  froth 
only,  and  do  not  take  it  off  below  the  holes  in  the  cylinder.  All  the 
(ream  will  not  whip  ;  a  little  will  be  left  in  the  bowl.  One  pint  of 
cream  will  make  three  pints  of  whipped  cream. 

To  Whip  Cream  Stiff.  Whip  rich  cream  as  above  directed  with- 
out removing  froth.  In  a  short  time  it  will  be  stiff.  Keep  on  ice 
until  required.  Cream  taken  from  the  milk  that  has  been  set  over 
night  is  too  fresh  to  whip.  It  must  be  put  on  ice  for  at  least  sis 
hours  before  whipping. 

Cream  Whi/)s.  One  pint  of  rich  cream,  one  cup  of  pale  sherry, 
one  lemon,  grated  rind  and  juice,  half  a  cup  of  sugar.  Mix  in-order 
given.  Add  more  sugar  if  desired.  .Stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
then  whip  it.  take  off  the  froth  as  it  rises,  and  put  on  a  hair  sieve. 
Fill  jelly  glasses  \\ith  cream  left;  put  froth  on  top. 

Aj>}>lc  Charlotte.  One-third  of  a  box  of  gelatine,  one-third  of  a 
cup  of  cold  water,  one-third  of  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  one  cup  of 
sugar,  juice  of  one  lemon,  one  cup  of  cooked  apple,  whites  of  three 
eggs.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  ;  pour  over  the  boiling  water. 
Add  the  sugar,  lemon  and  apple  :  strain,  stir  in  ice-water  until  stiff  ; 


102  PROGRESSIVE    COOKEKV 

add  the  well-beaten  whites.  Line  a  mould  with  lady  fingers  or 
sponge  cake,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  serve  a  boiled  custard,  made 
with  yolks  of  the  eggs,  as  a  sauce.  Whipped  cream  may  be  served 
if  preferred. 

Make  strawberry  or  raspberry  the  same  as  apple  charlotte,  simply 
straining  the  juice  instead  of  cooking. 

Rich  Ice  Cream.  One  quart  of  cream  whipped,  one  and  one-half 
cups  of  sugar,  and  flavoring.  Freeze.  (Directions  for  freezing  : 
Layer  of  ice  and  rock  salt  alternately  until  freezer  is  full  and  tin  is 
covered.  When  the  crank  turns  hard  the  cream  is  frozen  ;  if  you 
wish  to  pack  remove  paddle,  pack  solidly  in  the  same  tin,  turn  off 
the  water,  and  repack.  Cover  the  freezer  with  a  piece  of  old  carpet.) 
Pack  frozen  cream  in  fancy  tins  or  tin  boxes  ;  if  packed  in  paper 
boxes  put  them  in  tins  to  keep  out  the  salt.  If  cream  is  served  in 
glasses  whipped  syllabub  cream  piled  on  the  top,  tinted  some  delicate 
color,  has  a  very  pretty  effect. 

Take  strips  of  old  muslin,  grease  on  one  side  and  put  around  the 
covers  of  mould  before  freezing,  to  keep  out  the  salt. 

When  cream  is  partly  frozen,  firm  ripe  strawberries  or  raspberries 
may  be  added. 

Serve  sherbets,  ice-creams,  etc.,  on  dishes  that  have  been  cooled  in 
ice-chest.  In  packing  ice-cream  pack  so  that  there  are  no  air  spaces 
through  the  cream. 

Ice  Cream  (Southern).  One  pint  of  milk,  one  pint  of  cream, 
one  tablespoon  of  flour,  one  cup  of  sugar.  Heat  milk  in  double 
boiler,  add  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Blend  flour  with  a  little  milk 
perfectly  smooth,  add  to  hot  milk  ;  stir  well,  and  cook  half  an  hour 
or  more.  Strain,  put  away  in  a  cold  place  ;  when  cold  remove  scum, 
add  one  pint  of  whipped  cream,  flavor  and  freeze.  This  cream 
colored  pink,  and  flavored  with  extract  of  rose,  or  green  and  flavored 
with  pistachio,  makes  a  pleasing  variety.  Freeze  as  above. 


PROGKK— IVK  COOKERY  103 

Banana  Ice  Cream.  Make  as  for  ice-cream,  adding  mashed 
strained  bananas. 

Glace  Meringue,  Soak  one  tablespoon  of  gelatine  in  four  table- 
spoons of  cold  water  one  hour.  Pour  over  the  soaked  gelatine  one- 
half  cup  of  boiling  water.  Beat  until  smooth  and  cold.  Then  strain 
this  into  a  quart  of  cream.  Add  one  tablespoon  of  vanilla  extract 
and  one  large  cup  of  granulated  sugar.  Freeze.  AVhen  frozen  (it 
will  take  about  fifteen  minutes),  take  out  the  beater  and  pack 
smoothly,  being  careful  to  have  the  top  perfectly  level.  Set  away 
for  two  hours.  When  ready,  beat  the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  and  gradually  beat  into  this  two  tablespoons  of  powdered 
sugar.  Turn  the  cream  out  on  an  earthen  dish  and  cover  every  part 
with  meringue.  Brown  in  hot  oven  and  serve  immediately.  If  the 
dish  is  flat  put  a  board  under  it  to  keep  the  heat  from  the  bottom. 

Prombicre.  One  quart  of  milk,  one  pint  of  cream,  six  whole 
eggs,  yolks  of  three  eggs,  one  and  one-half  cups  of  sugar,  four  table- 
spoons each  of  preserved  citron,  green  gages  and  pineapple  cut  fine. 
Make  a  boiled  custard  of  the  milk  and  cream,  and  when  cold  add  the 
fruit,  and  freeze. 

Bombe  Glace.  Serve  ice-cream  and  sherbet  in  paper  boxes.  Fill 
the  boxes  with  two  kinds  of  ice  cream  and  sherbet  alternately.  After 
freezing  pack  the  cases  in  a  freezer.  Serve  on  a  fancy  napkin  on  ice 

cream   plates. 

Chocolate  Mousse.  Whip  one  quart  of  cream  to  a  stiff  froth 
with  a  syllabub  churn,  placing  the  bowl  in  a  basin  of  ice  and  water. 
Dissolve  one  ounce  of  grated  chocolate,  add  three  tablespoons  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  one  tablespoon  of  boiling  water.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire 
until  smooth,  about  one  minute.  Add  six  tablespoons  of  whipped 
cream  :  when  cool  add  to  dish  of  whipped  cream  ;  now  stir  in 
gently  one  cup  of  powdered  sugar.  Tut  in  a  mousse  tin.  In 
packing  mou>s»-  have  a  layer  of  ice  thin  and  a  layer  of  salt 


104  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

thick.  Paste  a  strip  of  greased  muslin  around  the  edge  of  the 
covers.  Have  the  mousse  well  covered  with  salt  and  ice,  then  cover 
with  a  piece  of  carpet  ;  freeze  four  hours.  Take  out  carefully,  wipe 
off  salt,  remove  cloth,  turn  quickly  on  a  cold  dish,  cut  in  slices,  serve 
on  very  cold  plates.  Mousse  tins  may  be  had  at  any  first-class  tin 
store.  Serve  all  frozen  puddings,  etc.,  on  dishes  that  have  set  a  while 
in  an  ice-chest. 

Strawberry  Mousse.  Mash  one  quart  of  strawberries,  press 
through  a  sieve,  sweeten  with  powdered  sugar  ;  stir  on  ice  until  very 
cold.  Add  one  pint  of  thick  cream  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Turn  into 
a  mould.  Freeze  as  above  directed. 

Roman  Punch.  One  quart  of  water,  one  and  one-half  cups  of 
sugar,  four  oranges  and  one  lemon,  one-half  cup  of  Jamaica  rum. 
Dissolve  sugar  in  water,  grate  the  rind  of  one  lemon  and  one  orange  ; 
squeeze  out  the  juice  of  the  oranges  and  lemon,  add  to  the  sugar  and 
water  and  the  Jamaica  rum.  (If  you  wish  to  color  it  pink  use  a 
little  claret  wine).  Let  it  stand  one  hour,  strain  and  freeze. 

Another  Way. — Use  the  same  materials  as  in  the  other  recipe- 
Make  a  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  water  by  boiling  together  three  min- 
utes, cool,  add  the  other  ingredients  and  the  white  of  one  egg  beaten 
stiff.  Freeze.  Serve  after  entrees  or  fish.  Other  frozen  punches 
are  made  the  same  way  adding  other  liquors  or  wines. 

Pineapple  Sherbet.  Mix  together  one  pint  of  pineapple  juice,  the 
juice  of  two  lemons.  Let  this  mixture  stand  for  one  hour,  add  one  pint 
of  water,  one  pint  of  sugar  ;  strain  and  freeze.  Or  the  sugar  and  water 
may  be  boiled  together  for  twenty  minutes,  the  strained  juice  added 
when  cold  ;  freeze.  All  ices  are  made  this  way.  substituting  any 
fruit  desired,  tea  or  coffee. 

Strawberry  Sherbet.  Is  made  the  same  as  the  above,  using 
mashed  strawberries  strained  in  place  of  pineapple. 


PROGKKSSIYK    C'OOKKKY  105 

Nesselrode  Pudding.  Boil  one  pint  of  shelled  chestnuts  until 
soft,  take  off  black  skin  and  pound  in  a  mortar  to  a  paste.  Boil  one 
pint  of  sugar,  one  pint  of  water.  juice  from  pint  can  of  pineapples 
twenty  minutes  :  beat  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs  and  stir  into  this  syrup. 
Put  saucepan  in  another  of  boiling  water  and  beat  until  it  thickens,take 
off,  place  in  basin  of  cold  water,  l>eat  for  ten  minutes.  Mix  chestnuts 
with  one  cup  of  cream,  rub  all  through  a  sieve,  add  one-half  pound 
of  French  candied  fruit  and  the  pineapple  cut  fine.  Mix  this  with 
the  cooked  mixture,  add  one  tablespoon  of  vanilla  extract;  four 
tablespoons  of  wine,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt.  Freeze,  repack  in 
mousse  tin.  (If  you  can  buy  almond  paste,  add  to  the  cream  mix- 
ture.) This  is  considered  tin'  fiirxt  of  frozen  puddings. 


Salted  Almonds.  Blanch  the  almonds  by  pouring  boiling  water 
over  them  :  let  stand  a  moment,  then  throw  them  into  cold  water, 
and  rub  off  the  skins.  To  each  cup  of  nuts  allow  one  tablespoon  of 
melted  butter  or  olive  oil.  Stir  the  almonds  well  in  it,  let  stand  an 
hour,  sprinkle  with  salt,  allow  one  and  one-half  tablespoons  of  salt 
to  each  cup  of  nuts.  1'ut  into  a  moderate  oven,  watch  carefully,  let 
them  bake,  stirring  occasionally,  until  they  turn  a  delicate  brown  : 
they  should  be  crisp.  Remove  from  oven,  rub  off  all  the  salt. 

Salted  Almonds  No.  2.  Blanch  two  cupe  of  almonds.  Dissolve 
one-half  cup  of  salt  in  one  and  one-half  cups  of  water.  Soak  al- 
monds in  this  solution  over  night,  wipe,  put  into  a  baking-pan,  and 
brown  amber  color  in  moderate  oven.  They  must  be  brittle. 
Almonds  prepared  in  this  way  will  keep  longer  than  when  cooked 
in  oil  or  butter.  If  you  wish  them  very  salt  put  in  more  than  a  half 
cup  of  salt. 

Boiled  Custard.  One  quart  of  milk,  one  cup  of  sugar,  four  eggs, 
pinch  of  salt.  l>eat  the  eggs,  have  the  milk  hot  in  double  boiler,  to 
which  sugar  has  been  added,  pour  the  hot  milk  over  beaten  eggs, 


106  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

return  to  double  boiler,  stir  until  thick.  Have  a  bowl  handy.  As 
soon  MS  custard  begins  to  thicken  at  bottom  and  sides  turn  quickly 
into  a  dish.  Flavor  with  one-half  teaspoon  of  any  extract  preferred 
or  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one-half  lemon. 

Richer  Custard.  Yolks  of  six  eggs:  make  as  above  directed. 
Beat  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  tablespoon  of  sifted  sugar,  and  orna- 
ment the  top  of  cold  custard  just  before  serving. 

Boiled  Custard.  One  cup  of  milk,  one  egg,  one  tablespoon  of 
sugar,  one-half  teaspoon  of  flavoring.  Scald  the  milk,  beat  the  egg 
to  a  froth,  and  add  the  sugar;  pour  into  scalded  milk  and  stir  until 
it  thickens.  Pour  at  once  into  a  cold  bowl;  add  flavoring.  Serve 
with  rice. 

^Moonshine.  This  dessert  combines  a  pretty  appearance  with  pal- 
atable flavor,  and  is  a  convenient  substitute  for  ice  cream.  Beat  the 
whites  of  six  eggs  in  a  broad  plate  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  then  add 
gradually  six  tablespoons  of  powdered  sugar  (to  make  it  thicker  use 
more  sugar  up  to  a  pint),  beating  for  not  less  than  thirty  minutes,  and 
then  beat  in  about  one  heaping  tablespoon  of  preserved  peaches,  cut 
in  tiny  bits  and  set  on  ice  until  thoroughly  chilled.  In  serving, 
pour  in  each  saucer  some  rich  cream  sweetened  and  flavored  with 
extract  of  vanilla,  and  on  the  cream  place  a  liberal  portion  of  the 
moonshine.  This  quantity  is  enough  for  seven  or  eight  persons. 

Virginia  Caramel  Custard.  Separate  the  whites  and  yolks  of 
five  eggs,  beat  the  yolks  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  add  the 
well  beaten  whites,  and  mix  well  with  a  quart  of  milk.  Flavor  with 
rose  or  almond,  and  then  pour  into  a  buttered  mould.  Set  immedi- 
ately into  a  pan  of  boiling  hot  water  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
About  half  an  hour  will  be  required  to  set  it  firmly.  When  nicely 
browned  and  puffed  up  touch  the  middle  with  a  knife  blade;  if  it 
cuts  as  smooth  as  around  the  sides  it  is  done.  Take  care  not  to 


1'KociKKssivK  COOKERY  107 

overdo.  Let  custard  stand  until  perfectly  cold,  turn  out  gently  on 
a  plate,  and  dust  thickly  with  sugar,  place  in  upper  part  of  hot  oven ; 
the  sugar  soon  melts  and  browns. 

Tapioca  Blanc  Munge.  One  pint  of  milk,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of 
fioirl  tapioca,  one-half  cup  of  sugar.  Soak  tapioca  four  hours;  put 
milk  in  double  boiler,  add  sugar  and  soaked  tapioca,  cook  ten  min- 
utes. Remove  from  fire,  season,  stir  in  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten 
stiff,  with  a  speck  of  salt.  Pour  into  a  mould  that  has  been  wet  in 
cold  water;  set  away  to  get  cold.  Turn  into  a  deep  glass  dish. 
Serve  with  cream. 

Tapioca  Cream.  Is  made  by  any  of  the  recipes  for  boiled  cus- 
tard, adding  one-fourth  of  a  cup  of  soaked  tapioca  boiled  in  the  milk, 
before  adding  eggs.  In  boiled  custards  if  cornstarch  is  used  fewer 
eggs  will  be  required. 

Lemon  Foam.  Four  eggs,  juice  two  lemons,  rind  one-half  lemon, 
four  large  tablespoons  sugar,  stir  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  to- 
gether, put  in  double  boiler,  when  stiff,  remove.  Stir  in  the  whites. 
Serve  in  glasses. 

Siberian  Cream.  One-half  package  gelatine  (Nelson's  is  the 
best);  one  quart  of  milk.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  part  of  the  milk; 
beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  one  teacup  of  sugar;  heat  the  rest 
of  the  milk  and  pour  over  the  soaked  gelatine,  then  mix  with  the 
and  sugar.  Flavor  with  vanilla  and  sherry  wine  to  taste;  set 
on  the  stove  and  stir  until  it  curdles  on  the  spoon;  beat  the  whites 
to  a  froth  and  pour  over  the  hot  mixture  and  stir  them  in  slightly. 
Set  away  in  a  shallow  pan.  When  cold  cut  in  square  blocks  resem- 
bling ice.  and  serve. 

Ornngc  \vith  Claret  Wine.  Peel  six  firm  oranges,  cut  them  in 
slices,  place  a  layer  in  a  glass  dish,  put  over  each  a  teaspoon  of  sugar 


108  PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY 

(or  more,  if  preferred,),  repeat  the  same  until  all  is  used.  Cover 
with  claret  wine.  Set  away  in  a  cool  place  three  or  four  hours  be- 
fore serving. 

Apples  Cooked  in  Syrup.  Take  six  apples  of  medium  size,  wash, 
peel  and  core;  be  careful  not  to  break;  grate  rind  of  one  lemon,  and 
squeeze  out  juice.  Have  syrup  made  of  one  cup  of  sugar,  two  cups 
of  water,  put  in  the  lemon  rind  and  juice,  and  then  the  apples. 
Cook  apples  carefully,  try  with  a  wisp  of  a  broom,  and  if  perfectly 
cooked  remove  to  dish;  be  careful  not  to  break.  If  syrup  is  too  thick 
reduce  it  and  strain  over  apples,  and  set  away  to  cool.  Serve  with 
cream. 

Apples  Another  Way.  Take  four  or  six  apples,  wash,  peel,  quar- 
ter and  core;  lay  in  an  earthen  pie  plate,  and  sprinkle  over  each 
one  tablespoon  of  sugar  and  one-half  teaspoon  of  lemon  juice;  add 
one-half  cup  of  water;  baste  and  bake  slowly  until  brown. 

Stewed  Pie  Plant.  Make  a  syrup  by  boiling  one  cup  of  sugar 
with  one  cup  and  one-half  of  water.  Cut  two  cups  of  pie  plant 
without  taking  off  the  outer  skin,  in  inch  pieces,  drop  in  boiling 
syrup;  cook  until  soft  but  not  broken.  AVhen  cold,  serve. 


PUDDING  SAUCES 


Brandy  Sauce.  Two  eggs,  two  tablespoons  of  sugar,  two  table- 
spoons i  if  lirandy.  Beat  the  yolks  ten  minutes,  add  sugar  and 
l»randy.  then  well  beaten  whites. 

Madeira  or  Rum  Sauce.  Melt  two  tablespoons  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan  :  add  one  tablespoon  of  flour,  stir  until  rather  yellow,  add 
gradually  one  pint  of  water,  one  cup  of  sugar  and  a  few  drops  of 
caramel  sugar;  boil  gently  ten  minutes.  Stir  in  one-fourth  cup  of 
Madeira  wine  or  rum. 

Caramel.  Melt  one  cup  of  sugar  in  a  saucepan,  stir  until  it 
melts,  and  is  of  a  dark  brown  in  color.  Add  one  cup  of  boiling 
water,  boil  ten  minutes.  When  cold,  bottle.  This  gives  a  rich, 
dark  brown  color  to  coffee,  custards,  etc. 

Cream  Sauce.  One  egg,  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  three  tablespoons 
of  milk,  one-half  teaspoon  of  vanilla.  Beat  yolks  and  sugar  to- 
gether, add  beaten  whites,  lastly  the  hot  milk  and  vanilla.  Serve 
soon  as  made. 

Lemon  Sauce.  Two  cups  of  hot  water,  one  cup  sugar,  three 
heaping  teaspoons  of  cornstarch,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon, 
one  tablespoon  of  butter.  Mix  the  sugar  and  cornstarch  thoroughly, 
add  to  the  boiling  water.  Cook  eight  or  ten  minutes,  stirring  often; 
add  the  lemon  rind  and  juice  and  the  butter.  Stir  until  the  butter 
is  melted,  and  serve  at  once.  If  the  sauce  becomes  too  thick  add 
more  hot  water.  One-half  cup  of  juice  of  stewed  strawberries,  apri- 
cots or  any  fruit  may  be  used  instead  of  lemon. 

109 


110  PROGRESSIVE  COOKERY 

Whipped  Strawberry  Sauce.  Whip  one  pint  of  cream  to  a  stiff 
froth,  and  beat  into  this  about  one-half  cup  of  preserved  strawber- 
ries that  have  been  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve;  or  add  one-half  cup 
of  strawberry  juice.  Sweeten  with  powdered  sugar. 

Hard  Sauce.  One-quarter  of  a  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  one-half  teaspoon  of  lemon  or  vanilla,  or  a  little  nut- 
meg, teaspoon  of  water.  Hub  butter  to  a  cream,  add  sugar  gradually, 
then  the  water,  then  flavor.  Pack  smoothly  in  a  small  dish,  and 
stamp  it  with  a  butter  mould.  Grate  over  nutmeg. 

Molasses  Sauce.  Boil  one  cup  of  molasses,  add  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  one  lemon  and  one  tablespoon  of  butter. 

Snowdrift  Sauce.  One-fourth  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of  sugar, 
one-half  cup  boiling  water,  two  tablespoons  of  wine  or  brandy, 
whites  of  two  eggs.  Beat  the  sugar  and  butter  to  a  cream,  then  add 
the  boiling  water,  then  the  brandy  or  wine,  lastly  the  well  beaten 
whites. 

If  you  wish  a  yellow  sauce,  cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  then  add 
the  beaten  yolks,  and  proceed  as  in  above  receipt. 


BREAD 


Hop  Yeast.  Boil  a  handful  of  hops  in  three  pints  of  water  ten 
minutes,  strain  and  pour  half  of  it  gradually  on  nine  tablespoons  of 
flour,  then  add  the  remainder  of  the  water.  Add  one-half  cup  of 
molasses  or  sugar,  one  teaspoon  of  salt.  When  cool  add  one  cup  of 
liquid  yeast  or  one  cake  of  condensed  yeast. 

Hard  Yeast.  Take  some  yeast,  make  it  thick  with  India  meal. 
Cut  out,  dry  in  wind.  Put  away  in  bags.  One  cake  will  mix  four 
quarts  of  flour. 

Potato  Yeast.  Three  good  sized  potatoes,  one  cup  of  flour,  one- 
fourth  cup  of  sugar,  two  teaspoons  of  salt,  one  and  a  half  quarts  of 
boiling  water.  Peel  and  grate  the  potatoes,  adding  the  flour,  salt 
and  sugar.  Place  on  the  stove,  and  stir  constantly  while  pouring  on 
the  boiling  water;  the  amount  of  water  will  depend  somewhat  »n 
the  quality  of  the  potatoes  and  flour.  When  nearly  cold  add  one 
cupful  of  old  yeast  or  one  yeast  cake. 

\VciterBread.  Two  quarts  of  sifted  flour,  one  teaspoon  of  salt, 
one  teaspoon  of  sugar,  one  tablespoon  of  lard  or  butter,  one-quarter 
of  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  dissolved  in  one-half  cup  of  water,  a 
pint  of  warm  water.  Put  flour  in  mixing-bowl  (reserving  one  cup 
of  flour  to  add  at  last,  if  needed).  Rub  the  butter  or  shortening 
into  the  flour.  Mix  the  yeast  with  the  warm  water.  Pour  this 
liquid  mixture  into  the  center  of  the  flour,  mixing  well  with  a  steel 
knife.  Scrape  the  dry  flour  from  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  bowl, 
bringing  the  knife  up  through  the  dough.  When  thoroughly  mixed 

111 


112  PIMKJKKSSIVE    COOKKKY 

turn  out  on  a  floured  bread  board;  knead  half  an  hour,  or  till  it  is 
smooth  and  will  not  adhere  to  the  board.  Cover  with  a  cloth  and 
board,  let  rise  to  double  its  bulk,  cut  down,  let  rise  again,  divide 
into  two  parts,  mould  into  loaves,  let  rise  until  it  cracks  on  top. 
Bake  in  hot  oven  one  hour.  When  baked  put  on  wire  dish  or  sieve, 
place  where  the  air  will  circulate  round,  and  thus  carry  off  the  gas 
which  has  been  formed,  now  no  longer  needed.  Never  leave  bread 
in  a  pan  or  on  a  pine  table. 

Milk  bread  is  made  the  same  as  water  bread,  using  good  milk  in- 
stead of  water.  It  is  better  for  new  beginners  to  make  bread  in  the 
morning,  then  they  can  watch  the  rising  carefully. 

Rye  or  graham  bread  make  the  same  as  water  bread,  omitting  the 
shortening  and  using  two-thirds  rye,  one-third  flour;  let  rise  with- 
out molding. 

Raised  biscuit  are  made  the  same  as  milk  bread,  adding  more  but- 
ter or  shortening;  make  into  biscuit  shape  or  oblong.  Melt  butter, 
and  spread  over  the  top,  put  in  a  rather  warm  place  to  rise.  Bis- 
cuit should  be  allowed  more  time  to  rise  than  bread.  Bake  in  a 
quick  oven.  Experience  is  the  best  teacher  in  bread  making.  There 
are  many  other  ways  of  mixing  bread.  Make  a  batter  first,  and 
then  stir  in  the  flour,  kneading  afterward.  Mashing  a  potato  and 
adding  to  yeast  mixture  is  good. 

Sticks.  Take  some  milk  bread  dough,  shape  into  ballrf  about  the 
size  of  a  walnut.  Roll  out  with  the  palm  of  the  hand  to  about  a 
foot  long.  Leave  on  the  board  to  rise  slowly.  Put  into  moderate 
oven  to  dry.  When  the  color  of  crackers,  and  about  as  brittle, 
take  up.  Eat  with  soup  or  coffee. 

Parker  House  Rolls.  Boil  one  pint  of  milk;  allow  it  to  get 
nearly  cold,  dissolve  half  a  cake  of  yeast  in  half  cup  of  warm  milk 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY  113 

Put  into  a  bowl  two  cups  of  gifted  flour,  add  one  tablespoon  of  sugar, 
one  teas] MX >n  of  salt :  rub  in  one  tablespoon  of  butter,  one  of  lard, 
add  gradually  the  dissolved  yeast,  then  the  milk;  put  this  batter  to 
rise  in  a  warm  place;  when  risen  add  flour,  knead  and  let  rise 
again,  cut  down,  put  on  a  board,  roll  out  lightly,  spread  over  bits 
of  butter,  roll  up,  let  rise  again.  Put  on  a  board,  roll  out  half  an 
inch  thick,  cut  with  an  oval  cutter,  fold  the  dough  over,  putting  a 
piece  of  butter  between  each  fold.  Put  into  a  biscuit  pan,  keep  in  a 
warm  place.  If  kept  in  too  warm  a  place  the  butter  will  melt.  It 
must  rise  to  double  the  original  size.  Bake  in  rather  a  hot  oven 
twenty  minutes. 

All  of  following  recipes  must  be  mixed  and  beaten  well. 

Raised  Brown  Bread.  One  pint  of  yellow  meal,  one  pint  of  rye 
meal,  one-half  cup  of  yeast,  one-half  cup  of  molasses,  one-half  tea- 
spoon of  salt,  one  saltspoon  of  soda,  one  pint  of  warm  water.  Mix 
ir<ll  rye,  corn  meal,  salt,  molasses,  yeast  and  water  together.  If 
compressed  yeast  is  used  dissolve  in  warm  water.  Fill  the  baking- 
pan  a  little  more  than  half  full.  Let  it  rise  until  full.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  four  or  five  hours.  Jn  New  England  it  is  baked  in  a 
brick  oven. 

Boiled  Brown  Bread.     One  and  one-half  cups  of  corn  meal,  the 

same  of  graham  flour,  one-third  of  a  cup  of  molasses,  three  cups  of 

warm  water,  one  teaspoon  of  soda,  two  teaspoons  of  vinegar,  one-half 

jioon  of  salt ;  (add  the  soda  to  the  molasses.)    Fill  a  tin  two-thirds 

full,  boil  in  a  kettle  three  hours,  and  then  bake  half  an  hour. 

Steamed  Brown  Bread.  One  cup  of  Indian  meal,  one  cup  of  rye 
meal,  one-half  cup  of  white  flour,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  two  tea- 
spoons of  baking  powder,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  molasses,  one  and 
one-half  cups  of  sweet  milk.  Mix  well  in  order  given,  and  steam  in 
a  buttered  mould  two  and  one-half  hours. 


114  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Scalded  Corn  Cake.  One-half  cup  fine  white  corn  meal,  one 
saltspoon  of  salt.  Add  gradually  enough  scalding  hot  milk  to  swell 
the  meal  and  make  a  soft  dough,  a  little  stiffer  than  for  griddle 
cakes. 

Drop  a  tablespoon  in  hot  salt  pork  or  beef  drippings.  The  mixture 
should  be  just  thick  enough  to  stay  in  shape.  Turn  and  brown 
both  sides.  They  do  not  brown  so  well  in  beef  drippings  as  in  salt 
pork. 

Pop  Overs.  One  cup  of  flour,  one  saltspoon  of  salt,  one  egg,  one 
cup  of  milk.  Mix  salt  and  flour,  add  half  the  milk  gradually.  Add 
egg  well  beaten,  with  remainder  of  milk,  then  beat  all  vigorously. 
Bake  in  hot  iron  gem  pans,  well  buttered,  for  twenty  minutes. 

Maryland  Biscuit.  One  quart  of  flour,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of 
lard,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  one  cup  of  cold  water.  Mix  the  lard  with 
the  flour  thoroughly,  add  salt  and  water.  Lay  the  paste  on  a  bread 
board  slightly  floured.  Pound  with  a  mallet,  fold  the  dough  over 
and  fold  and  pound  until  the  dough  crackles  and  bubbles.  Roll  out 
and  cut  biscuit-shape;  prick  with  a  fork.  Bake  a  delicate  brown  in 
a  moderate  oven. 

Graham  Puffs.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  as  light  as  possible, 
and  add  to  them  one  pint  of  milk,  one  tablespoon  of  sugar,  one  tea- 
spoon of  salt;  mix  one  cup  of  sifted  graham  flour,  one  cup  of  white 
flour  and  two  teaspoons  of  baking  powder  in  a  bowl.  Add  grad- 
ually the  milk  mixture.  Beat  smooth  and  light,  and  then  add  one 
tablespoon  of  melted  butter,  and  beat  again.  Have  the  whites 
beaten,  and  fold  in.  Heat  earthenware  cups,  butter  them,  and  fill 
two-thirds  full.  Bake  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Rye  Muffins.  One  cup  of  sifted  rye  meal,  one  cup  of  white  flour, 
one-fourth  of  a  cup  of  sugar,  one-fourth  teaspoon  of  salt,  two  tea- 


PROGRESSIVE    rOOKKRY  115 

spoons  of  baking  powder,  two  eggs,  two  cups  of  milk.  Mix  the  dry 
ingredients,  the  baking  powder.  Add  the  beaten  egg  to  the  milk, 
and  stir  gradually  into  the  meal  and  flour  mixture.  Bake  twenty- 
five  minutes  in  hot  iron  gem  pans. 

Raised  Waffles.  Dissolve  in  one  pint  of  warm  milk  one-half  a 
cake  of  yeast;  add  to  one  pint  of  flour.  Mix  over  night.  In  the 
morning  add  half  teaspoon  salt,  teaspoon  of  sugar,  two  tablespoons 
of  melted  butter,  two  eggs,  beaten  separately.  Herve  with  lemon 
sauce. 

Lemon  Sauce.  Cook  one  cup  of  sugar  with  one-half  cup  of  water 
till  it  thickens;  add  a  tablespoon  each  of  butter  and  lemon  juice. 

Biscuit.  One  pint  of  flour,  two-thirds  cup  of  milk,  one  table- 
spoon of  butter,  one  of  lard,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  two  teaspoons 
of  baking  powder.  Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  rub  in  the  flour,  then 
stir  in  the  milk,  mix  as  soft  as  can  be  handled,  turn  the  dough  out 
on  a  floured  board,  pat  it  down  with  a  roller  until  half  an  inch  thick. 
Cut  round,  and  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven  ten  minutes.  If  too  rich 
leave  out  the  lard  or  butter. 

Egg  Biscuit.  One  pint  of  sifted  flour,  one  tablespoon  of  butter, 
one  of  lard,  one  teaspoon  of  baking  powder,  one  egg,  one-half  cup  of 
milk,  one  teaspoon  of  sugar,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt.  Add  the 
baking  powder,  sugar  and  salt  to  the  flour;  then  rub  in  the  butter. 
Beat  the  eggs  thoroughly,  and  pour  the  milk  over  it.  Make  a  hole 
in  the  flour,  and  pour  in  the  milk  and  egg.  Roll  out  quickly;  cut 
in  rounds.  l>ake  in  a  hot  oven  fifteen  minutes. 

Hominy  und  Cornmeal  Cakes.  Two  tablespoons  of  uncooked 
hominy,  one-ball  teaspoon  of  salt,  one  tablespoon  of  butter,  one  cup 
of  boiling  water,  one  scant  cup  of  cornmeal,  two  tablespoons  of 
sugar,  one  cup  of  boiling  milk,  two  eggs,  one  heaping  teaspoon  of 
baking  powder.  Pour  boiling  water  over  hominy,  add  salt  and  but- 


116  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

ter.  Add  boiling  milk  and  sugar  to  cornmeal.  When  cold  add  eggs 
beaten  separately,  then  the  baking  powder.  Bake  in  gem  pans 
twenty  minutes. 

Corn  Cakes.  One  pint  of  boiling  milk  to  one  cup  of  Indian  meal, 
a  little  salt  and  one  egg.  Bake  quickly  in  gem  pans. 

Fried  Indian  Cakes.  One  cup  of  Indian  meal,  one  cup  of  rye 
meal,  one  tablespoon  of  molasses,  a  little  salt,  one-quarter  spoonful 
of  soda.  Mix  with  cold  water  as  thin  as  you  can  drop  from  a  wet 
spoon  into  boiling  lard. 

Sponge  Corn  Cake.  One  cup  of  meal,  one-half  cup  of  flour, 
one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  two  teaspoons  of  baking  powder,  one  tea- 
spoon of  melted  butter,  one  tablespoon  of  sugar  or  molasses.  Mix  in 
order  given  ;  two  eggs,  one  and  one-fourth  cups  of  milk.  Beat  ;  add 
eggs  to  the  milk.  Bake  in  sheets  about  half  an  hour  and  cut  in 
squares. 

Southern  Corn  Cake.  One  cup  of  white  cornmeal,  two  cups  of 
cooked  rice  or  hominy,  three  eggs,  half  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  and  lump 
of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg.  Pour  enough  hot  milk  over  the  rice  or 
hominy  to  soften  it,  and  stir  until  smooth.  Pour  boiling  water  over 
the  meal  and  stir  until  the  meal  is  swelled  but  not  watery.  Add 
butter  and  eggs.  Beat  eggs  until  light.  Add  to  this  the  cooked  rice 
or  hominy.  Beat  the  ingredients  well  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Add 
milk  enough  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Bake  thirty-five  minutes  in  a 
round  pudding  dish.  Send  to  the  table  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is 
baked.  If  preferred  add  a  tablespoon  of  sugar. 


PASTRY 


Puff  Paste.  One  scant  pound  of  butter  and  one  pound  of  flour; 
wash  the  butter  in  ice  water,  dry,  and  put  on  ice  to  cool  ;  sift  flour 
into  a  cold  bowl  ;  pour  ice  water  with  juice  of  one-half  of  a  lemon 
into  flour,  enough 'to  make  a  stiff  dough  ;  put  your  hands  in  ice  water; 
pat  out  the  butter  into  an  oblong  shape.  Dredge  marble  or  board 
with  a  littli'  flour,  put  on  the  dough  and  dredge  slightly  ;  roll  from 
you  gently,  with  a  rolling  pin,  into  a  square  about  one-half  of  an 
inch  thick  :  put  butter  in  the  center,  fold  over  the  sides  so  that  they 
will  lap,  fold  from  the  top  toward  you,  roll  out  very  carefully,  fold 
again,  set  on  ice  twenty-five  minutes,  then  roll  out  three  times,  fold- 
ing as  before,  keeping  the  rough  ends  toward  you  ;  fold  again,  set  on 
ice  twenty-five  minutes,  then  roll  out  three  times,  folding  as  before, 
keeping  the  rough  ends  toward  you  ;  fold,  set  on  ice  twenty  minutes, 
roll  again  three  times  ;  keep  in  ice  chest  until  next  day.  Do  not 
press  heavily  with  the  roller  ;  (mix  in  cool  place.)  Puff  paste  is 
nicer  rolled  on  marble  ;  it  will  keep  for  a  week  if  desired,  covered 
with  a  damp  cloth. 

Rough  Puff  Paste.  One  pound  of  flour,  two-thirds  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  one-half  of  a  teaspoon  of  baking  powder.  Sift  the  flour 
and  baking  powder  into  a  cold  bowl  ;  put  in  the  butter,  cutting  it  in 
with  a  knife  ;  mix  very  stiff  with  ice  water.  It  will  not  harm  if  the 
pieces  of  butter  are  not  all  mixed.  Sprinkle  a  little  flour  on  the 
paste  board,  lay  on  the  dough,  and  roll  gently  from  you  until  the 
paste  is  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  if  any  bits  of  butter  roll 
out,  put  them  on  again.  Fold  sides  toward  the  middle,  the  upper 

117 


118  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

end  toward  you.  Roll  from  you,  and  sideways  ;  do  this  three  times 
and  set  in  cool  place  to  harden  ;  roll  again  three  times,  and  set  in  cool 
place  until  ready  to  use.  Dip  your  hands  in  cold  water  before  hand- 
ling paste  ;  you  may  omit  baking  powder  if  the  paste  is  to  be  kept. 
Paste  must  be  kept  cold. 

Short  Pie  Crust.  One  pint  of  flour,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoon 
of  salt.  Mix  in  enough  good,  sweet  lard  until  it  can  be  pressed  in 
the  hand  without  breaking.  Now  mix  very  stiff  with  cold  water  ; 
roll  out  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  spread  thickly  with  bits  of  butter, 
and  dredge  slightly  with  flour ;  fold  the  sides  toward  the  end  toward 
you.  Put  in  cold  place  one-half  hour.  If  a  richer  paste  is  liked,  roll  <  >ut 
again,  drop  more  bits  of  butter  over  it,  and  set  in  cold  place. 

Cheese  Biscuits.  Take  puff  or  rough  puff  paste,  roll  out  about 
one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  spread  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese  in 
which  a  little  cayenne  has  been  mixed  ;  fold  as  before  directed.  Roll 
out  again  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  with  a  very  small  cutter. 
Bake  in  moderately  hot  oven  a  light  brown  ;  when  baked  they  should 
be  an  inch  thick,  which  they  will  be  if  paste  is  properly  made.  Serve 
with  soups  or  black  coffee. 

Cheese  Sticks.  Are  made  in  the  same  way  as  cheese  biscuit, 
rolled  thin  and  cut  in  narrow  strips  about  a  finger  long,  then  laid 
crisscross,  or  made  in  little  bundles,  tied  with  one  of  the  strips  and 
baked  a  light  brown. 

Cheese  Sticks  No.  2.  Four  tablespoons  of  flour,  two  or  three 
tablespoons  of  grated  cheese,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  yolk  of  one  egg, 
one  tablespoon  of  ice  water.  Mix  cheese  and  cayenne  in  the  flour, 
beat  the  yolk,  add  ice  water,  and  stir  into  the  flour.  Put  away  to 
cool,  then  roll  out  thin,  and  cut  in  strips  like  straws.  Make  circle  of 
one  of  the  straws  as  large  as  a  dime,  put  in  a  bundle  of  straws  about 
a  finger  long.  Bake  in  a  rather  hot  oven. 


PROGKKSSIVK    (OOKKKY  119 

Patties.  Are  made  of  puff  paste,  rolled  one-half  inch  thick.  Cut 
witli  a  large  round  cutter,  then  cut  half  way  through  center  with 
smaller  cutter.  Hake  light  brown  in  moderate  oven  ;  they  should 
puff  three  times  their  size.  Remove  center  cover,  take  out  the  inside, 
fill,  and  put  on  cover. 

Vol  au  Vent.  Roll  puff  paste  one  inch  thick,  cut  a  round  the 
sixe  desired,  cut  an  inner  round  half  way  through  the  paste.  Bake 
in  moderately  hot  oven  ;  remove,  lift  the  cover,  take  out  some  of  the 
renter.  Fill  with  any  poulette  mixture,  or  crab  warmed  in  hot  but- 
ter, etc.  Return  the  cover  and  sejve  hot. 

Tarts.  Roll  pastry  rather  thin.  Cut  part  in  rounds.  With  a 
sharp  knife  dipped  in  hot  water  cut  paste  in  strips  about  one-half 
inch  wide,  wet  the  edge  of  the  rounds  and  lay  the  strips  around  the 
outside  three  times,  without  cutting  the  strip.  Bake  in  rather  hot 
oven  until  puffed  and  of  a  light  brown  color.  Fill  the  center  when 
(•••Id  with  sweetmeats,  or  jelly,  or  lemon  filling. 

Sliced  Apple  Pie.  Take  short  crust,  cut  off  a  piece  the  size 
required  for  the  bottom  crust  ;  cover  the  bottom  of  tin  plate  with 
this,  allowing  an  inch  over  ;  roll  out  the  upper  crust ;  have  sour 
apples  sliced  thin,  put  a  rim  of  apples  around  the  rim  of  plate  in 
regular  order,  then  pile  in  the  middle.  Sprinkle  with  four  table- 
spoons of  white  or  brown  sugar,  juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon,  put  one 
tablespoon  of  water  in  the  center.  (If  preferred,  grate  over  nutmeg 
or  sprinkle  with  cinnamon.)  Turn  over  the  edge  of  crust,  wet  the 
rim  slightly  with  cold  water,  put  on  the  cover,  press  down  carefully, 
trim,  and  bake  until  the  pie  will  move  on  pie  plate. 

Murlhorough  Pie.  One  cup  of  stewed  apples  sifted,  add  while 
hot  one  tablespoon  (.f  butter,  cool,  then  add  juice  and  rind  of  one 
lemon,  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  yolks  of  three  eggs,  grate  in  a  little 
nutmeg,  add  one  and  one-half  cups  of  cream.  Have////  pie  plate 


120  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

with  sides,  cover  with  paste,  putting  two  rims  around  the  edge,  add 
the  mixture.  Bake  until  firm  in  center.  When  baked  and  cool  cover 
with  meringue  made  from  whites. 

Meringue.  Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  in  a  platter  on  which  a 
small  pinch  of  salt  has  been  put,  beat  with  a  whisk  with  a  long 
motion,  slowly  at  first  then  faster  until  stiff  and  flaky  ;  add  one- 
half  cup  of  sifted  powdered  sugar,  sifting  and  cutting  in  lightly. 
Spread  lightly  over  pie  and  put  in  a  cool  oven  to  set,  and  brown  a 
little.  Tin  plates  are  best  for  pies. 

Mince  Pie.  Two  pounds  of  the  round  of  beef,  eight  pounds  of 
chopped  apples,  four  pounds  of  brown  sugar,  three  pounds  of 
suet,  four  pounds  of  raisins,  four  pounds  of  dried  currants,  two 
pounds  of  chopped  citron,  two  tablespoons  of  candied  orange  peel 
and  one  of  lemon,  two  Sicily  lemons,  one  quart  of  brandy, 
one  pint  of  cider  ;  two  tablespoons  of  clove,  four  tablespoons  of  cin- 
namon and  allspice,  a  teaspoon  of  ground  mace,  two  grated  nutmegs, 
one  tablespoon  of  salt.  Cook  the  meat,  and  chop  fine.  Mix  in  the 
spices,  sugar  and  salt  ;  pour  over  half  the  brandy  and  part  of  the 
prepared  fruit  ;  stir  well,  and  put  away  until  the  next  day  ;  then  add 
the  chopped  apple  and  suet,  and  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  the 
lemons,  chopped  candied  fruit  and  the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Half 
a  bottle  of  sherry  may  be  added.  Stir  well,  put  in  a  stone  jar,  in  a 
cool,  dry  place,  covered  tightly  ;  let  it  stand  for  one  week.  Stir,  then 
season  and  flavor  to  taste.  Suet  and  apples  must  be  chopped  fine. 
If  you  wish  a  richer  pie,  add  bits  of  butter,  lay  on  more  fruit,  and 
add  a  tablespoon  of  brandy  before  covering  the  pie.  Have  all  the 
raisins  stoned  ;  chop  half  of  them. 

Lemon  Pie.  Two  lemons,  two  cups  of  sugar,  four  eggs,  one  cup 
of  cream  (or  one  of  milk  and  a  tablespoon  of  butter).  Grate  the 
rind;  squeeze  the  juice  ;  beat  the  yolks  creamy,  add  sugar  and  cream, 


PROGKKS.-IYK    COOKKRV  121 

then  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  lemons.  Bake  as  directed  in  Marl- 
borough  pie.  Make  a  meringue  of  the  remaining  whites.  One 
Boston  cracker  rolled  and  sifted  may  he  added,  if  desired,  to  the  pie 
mixture. 

Banana  Pie.  Banana  pie  i^  made  by  making  a  custard  and  mix- 
ing with  the  pulp  of  three  bananas  pressed  through  a  colander  or 
sieve,  and  baked  in  a  rich,  open  pastry  crust,  and  finished  with  a 
meringue. 

Lemon  Filling  (for  Tarts).  Juice  of  six  lemons,  grated  rind  of 
four,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one-half  dozen  eggs.  Beat  eggs  light,  add 
sugar  and  juice,  beat  all  thoroughly  together,  cook  in  a  dish  of  hot 
water  to  the  thickness  of  honey.  Bottle,  and  keep  in  a  dry  place. 
This  quantity  will  make  fifty  tarts,  and  will  keep  for  months. 

Custard  Pie.  One  pint  of  milk,  four  eggs,  small  pinch  of  salt, 
one-half  cup  of  sugar,  grating  of  nutmeg.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the 
sugar,  salt  and  nutmeg.  Bake  in  pie  plate  with  rims  of  crust  till 
the  center  is  firm. 

Pie  Plant  or  Rhubarb  Pie.     Make  the  same  as  apple  adding 
three  times  the  sugar,  or  stew  the  pie  plant  and  then  bake. 
All  fruit  pies  are  made  similar  to  the  above  receipt. 


DOUGHNUTS,  GRIDDLE  CAKES,  ETC. 


Raised  Doughnuts.  One  pint  risen  milk  bread  dough,  one  cup 
of  sugar,  two  eggs,  one  tablespoon  melted  butter,  spice  to  taste,  flour 
enough  to  roll  out.  Cut  in  shape,  and  let  the  doughnuts  stand  until 
light,  and  fry  in  boiling  lard. 

Doughnuts.  One  pint  of  flour,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  sugar, 
one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  two  teaspoons  of  baking  powder,  one  salt- 
spoon  of  cinnamon,  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  a  cup  of  milk,  one 
egg,  one  tablespoon  of  butter.  Rub  butter  into  flour.  Mix  other 
ingredients  with  the  flour.  Add  ^beaten  egg  to  the  milk.  Take  a 
small  portion  at  a  time,  roll  out  one-third  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut 
with  a  ring  cutter.  Put  the  scraps  with  another  portion,  and  roll 
again.  When  all  are  rolled,  fry  in  deep,  hot  fat.  Turn  when  brown 
and  when  done  drain  on  paper,  in  a  colander.  Do  not  pile  hot 
doughnuts  on  top  of  each  other. 

Doughnuts.  One  cup  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  milk,  three  eggs,  two 
teaspoons  of  baking  powder,  butter  size  of  an  egg  ;  add  one-half  tea- 
spoon of  extract  of  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  or  lemon  juice,  five  cups  of 
flour.  Mix  and  handle  as  in  above  recipe. 

Crullers.  One-quarter  cup  of  butter,  one-quarter  cup  of  sugar, 
one-half  nutmeg,  one  and  one-half  cups  of  flour,  two  eggs,  teaspoon 
of  lemon  juice.  Beat  butter  to  a  cream,  gradually  beat  sugar  into  it, 
then  add  well  beaten  yolks,  and  nutmeg  and  lemon,  then  add  whites 

122 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKKKV  123 

beaten  to   stiff  froth.     Beat  in  flour,  a   little  at  a  time.     Flour  the 
board  well,  roll  out  the  dough  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch.  Cut 
\with  jagging  iron,  twist  into  different  shapes,  and  fry. 

Fried  Turnovers.  Take  short  pie-crust,  roll  rather  thin,  cut  in 
rounds  the  size  of  a  saucer.  Put  in  the  center  apple-sauce,  or  any 
Mewed  fruit,  not  too  juicy.  Wet  edges  with  cold  water,  fold  in  the 
middle  to  make  a  half  circle,  pinch  carefully,  to  keep  juice  from 
running.  Fry  in  frying  basket,  in  boiling  fat.  Sprinkle  with  sugar. 
Serve  in  a  hot  napkin. 

Russian  Turnovers.  The  Russians  and  Germans  do  not  cook  soup 
meat  t<>  shreds.  Take  one  cup  of  cold  chopped  soup  meat.  Season 
with  one-quarter  of  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  a  few  drops 
of  lemon  juice,  a  tablespoon  of  melted  butter,  one-half  teaspoon  of 
salt.  Roll  out  short  crust  rather  thin,  cut  with  large  biscuit  cutter. 
Put  in  the  center  of  rounds  one  tablespoon  of  chopped  meat.  Fold 
ever  as  directed  above.  Bake.  Serve  with  soup. 

fritter  Batter.  Yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten  well,  add  one-half  cup 
of  milk,  one  saltspoon  of  salt,  one  cup  of  flour,  or  enough  to  drop 
from  a  tablespoon  wet  in  cold  water  ;  a  teaspoon  of  olive  oil  may 
In-  added.  When  ready  to  use  add  whites  of  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Jf 
used  for  fruit  add  a  teaspoon  of  sugar  to  the  batter.  If  for  dams. 
tripe,  or  meat,  add  one  teaspoon  of  lemon  juice.  This  batter  will 
keep  in  a  cool  place  several  days. 

Egg  Plant  Fritters.  Put  whole  egg  plant  into  boiling  salted 
water,  mixed  with  one  tablespoon  of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice;  cook 
twenty  minutes,  or  until  tender,  mash  and  drain.  To  one  pint  of 
egg  plant  add  one-half  cup  of  flour,  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Drop  from  a  tablespoon  wet  in  cold  water  into 
hot  fat. 

Another  \Vay.  Cut  egg  plant  in  thin  slices  ;  sprinkle  over  Halt, 
pile  up  and  let  stand  one-half  hour  :  drain,  dip  in  fritter  batter: 
fry  in  hot  lard. 


124  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Dresden  Fritters.  Cut  slices  of  stale  bread  an  inch  thick,  remove 
crust,  cut  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  then  cut  with  a  smaller  cutter  about, 
half  an  inch  from  the  edge,  and  one -third  through  the  bread,  leaving 
two-thirds  uncut.  Take  one  pint  of  milk,  a  little  salt,  add  two 
beaten  eggs  ;  soak  the  bread  in  this,  being  careful  not  to  break. 
Remove  carefully,  sprinkle  with  dry  bread  crumbs,  dip  in  egg,  then 
in  bread  crumbs.  Put  in  a  wire  basket,  and  fry  in  smoking  hot  fat. 
Take  out  the  center  of  the  fritters,  remove  a  little  of  the  bread,  fill 
with  oysters  ;  put  back  the  cover.  These  are  very  good  filled  with 
any  preserve  or  jelly,  sprinkling  sugar  and  cinnamon  over  the  top. 

Fritters  may  be  cooked  in  deep,  hot  lard  or  mustard  oil,  or  in 
spider  with  a  little  hot  sweet  oil  or  butter. 

Apple  Fritters.  Peel  and  core  three  or  four  apples  ;  do  not  break 
them  ;  cut  in  rather  thin  slices.  Sprinkle  with  sugar,  lemon  and 
spice.  Dip  each  slice  in  fritter  batter,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  or  sweet  oil. 
Drain  and  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 

Clam  Fritters.  Make  clam  fritters  the  same  as  other  fritters, 
using  the  clam  liquor  instead  of  milk. 

Vegetables,  such  as  celery,  salsify,  or  parsnips,  should  be  boiled 
until  tender,  then  drained  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  stirred  into 
batter. 

To  mix  fritter  dough  without  lumps,  put  flour  in  bowl,  make  a 
hole  in  the  center,  add  the  ingredients,  and  stir  the  liquid  in 
gradually. 

Corn  Fritters.  Grate  two  cups  of  green  corn,  add  to  fritter 
batter.  Fry  as  before  directed. 

Cooked  Oatmeal  Fritters.  One  cup  of  cold,  cooked  oatmeal, 
one  cup  of  milk,  two  eggs,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  flour.  Mix  the 
oatmeal  and  milk  together.  AYhen  smooth,  put  in  the  flour,  and 
lastly  the  well-beaten  eggs.  Drop  from  a  tablespoon  which  has  been 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKKKV  125 

dipped  into  cold  water  into  smoking  fat.  Serve  hot  with  sugar 
sprinkled  over,  or  two  tablespoons  of  sugar  may  be  added  to  the 
mixture.  If  the  mixture  is  too  thin,  they  will  spread.  In  that  case 
add  a  little  more  flour. 

Rolled  Griddle  Cakes.  Two  eggs,  two  tablespoons  of  flour,  salt, 
and  milk  to  make  rcnj  thin  batter.  Beat  the  yolks,  add  flour,  a  little 
milk,  then  more  flour,  and  so  on  until  flour  is  used  ;  add  well  beaten 
whites.  I'our  in  hot  greased  frying  pan  one  tablespoon  of  the  mix- 
ture, or  just  enough  to  cover  a  small  frying  pan  ;  turn  quickly,  brown 
and  remove.  Spread  with  jelly,  roll,  and  sprinkle  with  sugar.  These 
are  very  good  for  dessert,  eaten  with  sugar  and  sherry. 

Griddle  Cakes.  One  pint  of  flour,  one  scant  pint  of  sour  milk, 
two  eggs,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-half  teaspoon  of  soda.  Sift 
the  flour,  salt  and  soda  together,  add  the  milk  and  beat  well,  then 
the  beaten  yolks,  lastly  the  well-beaten  whites. 

Rice  Griddle  Cakes.  Two  cups  of  cold  boiled  rice  or  hominy,  one 
teaspoon  of  sugar,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  two  eggs,  two  cups  of 
milk.  Hour  enough  to  make  a  thin  batter  that  will  run  from  the 
mouth  of  the  pitcher  in  a  thick,  continuous  stream,  one  teaspoon 
baking  powder.  Have  the  griddle  well-heated  and  greased,  make  the 
cakes  large,  bake  brown,  turn,  and  brown  the  other  side,  serve  with 
maple  syrup. 

Buckwheat  Cakes.  Pour  one  quart  of  boiling  water  on  one-half 
(up  of  fine  corn  meal  ;  add  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt ;  mix  well,  and 
when  lukewarm  add  one-half  cup  of  flour,  one  cup  of  buckwheat, 
and  one  cup  of  yeast.  Stir  n~dl.  Letriseover  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing stir  down  and  beat.  \Vhen  risen  and  ready  to  bake,  add  one 
saltspoon  of  soda  sifted  through  a  fine  sieve.  Bake  same  as  griddle 
cakes.  Buckwheat  cakes, even  if  not  sour,  require  the  addition  of 
soda  just  before  baking  ;  it  makes  them  light  and  tender. 


126  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Fried  Mushes.  Mushes  that  are  left  over  may  be  packed  in  a 
round  mold  or  in  a  one-quart  measure  ;  cut  in  slices  (if  they  are  not 
stiff  enough  dip  in  flour),  and  fry  in  hot  dripping;  if  made  pur- 
posely for  frying,  make  a  little  stiffer  than  for  ordinary  use.  A  very 
attractive  and  appetizing  dish  may  be  made  of  corned  beef  hash, 
with  slices  of  well-browned  mush  around  the  edge  of  the  dish. 

Oatmeal  Mush.  Put  one  cup  of  oatmeal  in  double  boiler  with  a 
teaspoon  of  salt ;  pour  gradually  over  a  quart  of  boiling  water  stir- 
ring all  the  time.  Cook  two  hours.  Remove  the  cover  once  in  a 
while  and  stir  with  a  fork. 

Indian  Meal  Mush.  Mix  one  cup  of  corn  meal  with  one  cup  of 
cold  water  ;  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt.  Pour  over  a  pint  of  boiling 
water  ;  cook  one  hour  in  double  boiler.  Graham  and  rye  are  made 
the  same. 

Welsh  Rarebit.  Heat  one  teaspoon  of  butter  in  a  frying  pan,  put 
in  one-half  of  a  pound  of  rich  moist  American  cheese,  season  with 
saltspoon  of  salt,  one-half  teaspoon  of  pepper,  a  speck  of  cayenne, 
and  a  saltspoon  of  mustard.  Stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  ropy, 
then  stir  in  one-fourth  of  a  cup  of  ale.  Have  slices  of  nicely  toasted 
bread  on  hot  plates  ;  pour  over  the  rarebit.  Serve  immediately. 

Golden  Buck.  Make  a  Welsh  rarebit,  as  before  directed,  adding 
to  each  piece  of  toast  a  poached  egg. 

Another  Way  to  Prepare  Welsh  Rarebit.  Toast  six  slices  of  bread, 
cover  each  with  a  slice  of  Swiss  cheese  one-third  of  an  inch  thick, 
lay  in  a  baking  pan,  sprinkle  with  a  little  pepper,  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven.  Serve  on  hot  plates. 

Cottage  Cheese.  Take  sour  milk,  not  too  old,  put  on  the  back 
of  the  stove  and  heat,  not  boil.  Pour  into  an  empty,  clean  salt  bug. 


PROGKKSSIVK  COOKKRY  127 

hang  up  and  let  drain  four  or  five  hours.  Turn  out  into  a  howl,  add 
salt  and  pepper  and  moisten  with  cream.  Some  like  chives  finely 
chopped,  sprinkled  over  the  top. 

Ham  Sandwiches  a  la  Parisienne.  Between  slices  of  thinly  cut 
white  bread  spread  a  mixture  of  Deviled  ham,  finely  chopped,  hard- 
lx)iled  eggs  and  cream  sauce.  Stamp  out  in  round,  oval,  square  or 
oblong  shapes.  Butter  the  tops.  Sprinkle  on  one-half  the  number 
of  sandwiches,  finely  chopped  parsley  and  hard-boiled  yolk  of  egg 
rubbed  through  a  sieve,  and  on  the  other  half  parsley  and  white  of 
egg  chopped  very  fine.  Arrange  tastefully  and  serve  on  small 
plates. 

Sandwiches.  Cut  bread  in  thin  slices,  trim  off  the  crust,  spread 
with  butter  and  any  chopped  meat,  nicely  seasoned,  with  salt,  pepper 
and  mustard.  Lay. another  slice  on  top.  Sardines  make  a  good 
sandwich.  Lay  a  damp  cloth  over  them  to  keep  moist. 

Chocolate  Butter.  One  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of  grated  sweet 
chocolate,  one  teaspoon  of  cinnamon,  one-half  cup  of  sugar.  Melt 
1  Hitter,  put  chocolate,  sugar  and  cinnamon  together  and  stir  into  the 
hot  butter.  Wet  a  bowl  in  cold  water,  and  pour  in,  and  cover  with 
a  greased  paper.  To  be  spread  on  warm  biscuit. 

German  Toast.  Cut  six  slices  of  stale  German  white  bread,  one- 
half  inch  thick,  soak  in  one  cup  of  milk  to  which  an  egg  and  a  pinch 
of  salt  have  been  added.  When  they  have  absorbed  all  they  will 
hold  remove  carefully,  drain,  dip  in  one  beaten  egg  and  fry  brown  on 
both  sides  in  hot  butter  or  olive  oil.  A  good  dessert,  served  with 
any  kind  of  sauce. 

Cracker  Brewis.  Split  the  crackers,  spread  with  the  butter  and 
cheese  mixture.  Place  in  a  shallow  earthen  dish,  add  milk,  one- 
quarter  cup  to  each  whole  cracker.  Bake  until  brown.  Omit  the 
cheese  if  preferred. 


128  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Lop  Scotch.  Cover  six  pilot  crackers  with  cold  water,  for  about 
an  hour,  or  until  soft.  Lay  in  deep  dish,  one  at  a  time,  sprinkle 
with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  drop  bits  of  butter  thickly  over 
them,  then  another  layer  of  crackers,  seasoning,  butter,  and  so  on 
until  all  are  used.  Nearly  cover  with  water  or  milk.  Cover  and 
bake  until  water  or  milk  is  absorbed.  If  too  dry  when  taken  from 
oven,  pour  over  a  little  hot  milk. 

Beans.  New  England  beans  are  baked  in  a  brick  oven,  and  baked 
over  night.  The  results  cannot  "be  the  same  when  baked  in  a  stove 
oven,  as  it  is  impossible  to  have  the  oven  of  an  even  temperature. 

Baked  Beans.  Pick  over  and  wash  one  quart  of  pea  beans,  soak 
over  night  in  cold  water.  In  the  morning  put  into  fresh  water,  and 
simmer  until  soft,  but  not  break.  Turn  into  a  colander,  and  pour 
cold  water  over.  Put  one-half  of  the  beans  in  pot.  Pour  hot  water 
over  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  part  fat  and  part  lean  ;  scrape 
the  rind.  Cut  the  rind  in  one-half  inch  strips.  Put  into  the  pot, 
and  then  add  the  rest  of  the  beans,  leaving  the  rind  exposed  ;  cover 
with  hot  water.  Bake  in  slow  oven  nearly  all  day.  (If  you  like,  put 
one  small  onion  in  the  bottom  of  bean  pot,  or  one  tablespoon  of 
molasses,  or  one-half  teaspoon  of  mustard,  or  all.)  Cover  the  bean 
pot  for  the  first  six  hours,  then  bake  without.  Add  a  little  hot  water 
from  time  to  time. 

Samp  and  Spanish  Beans.  Soak  one  pint  of  beans  and  one  pint 
of  samp  over  night  in  separate  dishes.  In  the  morning  pour  off  the 
water  from  beans,  put  on  to  cook  in  fresh  water.  Cook  samp  in 
another  pot.  Let  both  cook  for  two  days,  or  until  nearly  soft.  Add 
samp  to  beans,  also  one-half  pound  of  salt  pork,  a  grain  of  pepper 
and  a  speck  of  cayenne.  Cook  until  the  pork  is  tender.  Replenish 
with  water  when  necessary,  but  not  so  as  to  boil  over.  There  should 
not  be  too  much  liquid  when  done.  They  are  better  the  oftener  they 
are  warmed. 


JELLIES  AND  PRESERVES 


Heat  jelly  glasses  and  jars  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  or  put  water  in 
a  Kaking  pan  and  place  in  a  moderate  oven.  This  allows  the  air  to 
escape  and  prevents  the  jars  from  breaking  when  the  hot  liquid  is 
poured  in.  Fill  the  jars  to  overflowing.  Run  a  silver  knife  down 
the  sides,  so  that  the  air  hubbies  will  arise  to  the  surface.  Screw  on 
the  covers,  wash  the  jars  off,  and  when  cold  screw  on  the  cover  again 
as  tiirlit  as  possible. 

Put  on  the  top  of  jellies  pieces  of  paper  cut  to  fit  the  glasses, 
dipped  in  brandy.  Cover  neatly  with  rounds  of  soft  white  paper, 
cut  larger  than  the  glass,  dipped  in  the  white  of  egg,  and  press  in 
little  folds  neatly  around  the  edges,  or  dip  the  paper  in  a  flour  and 
water  mixture. 

'Hi row  apples  and  pears  into  cold  water  to  keep  them  from  dis- 
coloring. 

Keep  preserves  and  jellies  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 
In  heating  the  sugar,  be  careful  not  to  brown  it. 
Parboil  lemons  to  take  out  the  bitter  taste. 

Yellow  Tomato  Preserves.  Six  pounds  of  skinned  tomatoes, 
eight  coffee  cups  of  sugar,  two  coffee  cups  of  water,  one-half  cup  of 
green  ginger  after  it  is  sliced,  three  lemons.  Put  water,  sugar  and 
ginger  on  to  boil  together  for  a  few  moments.  Parboil  lemons  to  take 
out  the  bitter,  then  slice  them  thin,  then  add  with  tomatoes, 
pouring  off  tin-  water  from  the  latter.  Cook  all  slowly  two  or  more 

129 


130  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

hours.  This  will  fill  three  quart  jars.  Prepare  the  ginger  before- 
hand, as  it  is  very  tedious.  Green  ginger  can  be  procured  in  China- 
town, and  will  keep  fresh  a  long  time  in  a  cool  place.  Put  away  as 
directed. 

Preserved  Pears.  Peal,  quarter  and  core  Bartlett  Pears  ;  throw 
them  in  cold  water. 

Fill  quart  preserve  jars  neatly  with  the  fruit.  Put  on  the  stove 
wash  boiler,  cover  the  bottom  with  a  frame  made  of  slats.  Set  in 
the  jars  ;  fill  the  boiler  half  way  up  the  jars  with  cold  water.  Have 
ready  syrup  allowing  one  pound  to  a  quart  of  water,  cook  ten  min- 
utes, cool  and  fill  up  the  jars  ;  cover  the  boiler  tightly  to  keep  in 
the  stean  ;  when  the  water  boils  cook  twenty  minutes  or  till  the  fruit  is 
tender.  Remove  and  cover  as  directed. 

For  twelve  jars  use  nine  quarts  of  water  and  five  pounds  of  sugar. 

Preserved  Pears.  Six  firm  pears  of  medium  size,  two  Sicily 
lemons,  two  cups  of  sugar,  and  one  quart  of  water.  Wash,  peel  and 
halve  the  pears,  remove  the  core,  throw  them  into  cold  water  to  keep 
them  from  discoloring.  Parboil  the  lemons  to  take  out  the  bitter. 
Then  slice  thin.  Mix  the  sugar  and  water  together,  and  let  boil  up 
once.  Add  the  pears  and  lemon  ;  cook  until  soft  ;  be  careful  not  to 
break  the  pears.  Put  your  jars  in  a  pan  of  hot  water.  Take  out  the 
pears  carefully,  and  place  in  the  hot  jars.  Strain  the  syrup  and  fill 
the  jars  to  overflowing.  Run  a  silver  knife  down  the  sides,  so  that 
the  air  bubbles  will  rise  to  the  surface.  Screw  on  the  covers  tight, 
wash  the  jars  off,  and  when  cold  screw  the  covers  again  as  tight  as 
possible.  Put  away  in  a  dry,  cool  place.  The  same  directions  may 
be  used  for  apricots,  or  any  large  fruit. 

Preserved  Cherries.  Stone  the  cherries,  measure  a  bowl  of  fruit 
and  the  same  quantity  of  sugar.  Put  in  preserving  kettle  over  night 
a  layer  of  cherries  and  a  layer  of  sugar.  In  the  morning  cook 
slowly  without  stirring  until  the  liquid  is  clear  and  the  fruit  soft. 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKKKY  181 

Pits  of  cherries  may  be  added  if  the  flavor  is  desired.  All  other 
small  fruit  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  way.  Another  way  is  to  make 
a  syrup  of  one  pound  of  granulated  sugar  and  two-thirds  of  a  pound 
of  brown  sugar.  When  the  syrup  has  cooked  twenty-five  minutes 
and  been  well  skimmed,  drop  in  the  fruit  and  when  soft  remove  into 
hot  jars  ;  reduce  the  syrup  and  pour  over. 

Preserved  Tomatoes.  Seven  pounds  of  tomatoes,  five  and  one- 
quarter  pounds  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  green  ginger-root,  two  lemons. 
Prick  each  tomato  before  cooking  to  let  out  the  air.  Pour  scalding 
water  over  the  ginger,  let  it  stand  fifteen  minutes,  scrape  off  the  skin, 
break  into  pieces,  and  wash  again.  Put  the  sugar  into  the  kettle 
with  just  enough  water  to  dissolve  it  (about  one  cup  of  water  to  each 
pound  of  sugar).  When  dissolved  add  the  ginger,  sliced  lemon  and 
tomatoes.  Cook  until  tender  (about  half  an  hour),  then  take  out 
the  tomatoes  and  cook  syrup  one  and  one-half  hours,  or  until 
thick. 

Canned  Peaches.  Four  pounds  of  peaches,  one  pound  of  sugar, 
one  quart  of  water.  Scald  and  pare  peaches,  and  cover  with  cold 
water.  Put  sugar  and  water  in  porcelain-lined  kettle,  place  on  the 
fire,  and  stir  until  dissolved.  Drain  peaches,  and  put  them  into  the 
syrup,  bring  quickly  to  a  boil,  then  stand  where  they  will  scarcely 
bubble,  until  tender.  Fill  the  hot  tin  cans  quickly,  and  seal  at 
once. 

Orange  Marmalade.  Take  six  oranges,  boil  till  tender,  in 
three  quarts  of  water  till  soft,  remove  the  oranges.  To  the  water  add 
five  pounds  of  sugar,  boil  three-fourths  of  an  hour.  Slice  the  oranges 
thin,  add  to  the  syrup,  boil  three-fourths  hours.  Add  the  juice 
of  one  lemon  after  taking  off  the  stove. 

Grape  Jelly.  Stem  the  grapes  and  mash  them  in  the  preserving 
kettle.  Boil  freely  for  twenty  minutes,  then  strain.  To  every  pint 


132  PROGRESSIVE    COOKEKV 

of  juice  allow  one  pound  of  sugar.  Boil  juice  five  minutes,  skim- 
ming carefully.  Warm  sugar  and  add  gradually,  stirring  until 
thoroughly  melted  ;  boil  ten  minutes.  Select  grapes  that  are  firm,  and 
not  quite  ripe. 

Spiced  Grape.  Seven  pounds  of  grapes,  five  pounds  of  sugar, 
one  ounce  (scant)  of  cloves,  and  the  same  of  cinnamon,  one-half 
pint  of  vinegar.  Pulp  the  grapes,  keeping  the  skins.  Put  pulp  in 
kettle,  and  cook  until  the  seeds  separate.  Then  strain  and  add 
to  the  skins,  with  sugar,  spice  and  vinegar.  Boil  fifteen  min- 
utes, stirring  all  the  time. 

Currant  Jelly.  Buy  currants  when  they  first  come  into  the  mar- 
ket. Wash  and  dry  ;  do  not  stem.  Squeeze  through  a  strong  bag, 
or  through,  four  thicknesses  of  cheesecloth.  Strain  again  through  a 
hair  sieve.  To  every  quart  of  juice  add  two-thirds  of  a  quart  of 
sugar.  Boil  the  juice  hard  for  fifteen  minutes  ;  skim  ;  add  heated 
sugar,  boil  up  once.  Skim,  and  fill  jelly  glasses.  Cover  when 
cold. 

Apple  Jelly.  Gravenstein  apples  make  the  clearest  jelly.  Wash, 
halve  and  quarter  four  pounds  of  apples,  leaving  in  the  core.  Put 
in  preserving  kettle,  cover  with  cold  water  ;  add  two  Sicily  lemons 
chopped.  Cook  the  apples  until  soft,  but  not  so  they  will  break. 
Strain  through  the  sieve,  press  gently  to  get  out  the  juice,  but  not  the 
pulp  ;  strain  again  through  four  thicknesses  of  cheese  cloth.  To 
every  quart  of  juice  allow  two-thirds  of  a  quart  of  sugar.  Return 
juice  to  preserving  kettle,  boil  hard  twenty  minutes,  skim,  then  add 
hot  granulated  sugar,  boil  five  minutes,  skim.  Dip  a  cold  cup  in 
the  kettle  and  if  it  jellies  on  the  outside  it  is  ready  to  put  in  glasses. 
If  jelly  cooks  too  long  it  will  become  syrup. 


ri«x.i:i->siVK  rooKKKY  133 

Strawberry  or  Raspberry  Preserves.  To  every  pound  of  straw- 
berries add  two-thirds  pounds  of  granulated  sugar.  Pick  over  berries. 
Throw  the  sugar  over  the  berries  ;  let  them  stand  over  night. 

Put'the  berries  and  sugar  into  preserving  kettle  and  cook  till  the 
berries  are  soft,  being  careful  to"  keep  them  whole  ;  skim,  thin  out 
carefully,  drain  them.  Cook  the  syrup  till  thick.  Put  the  berries 
into  hot  jars,  cover  with  the  sugar.  If  you  wish  them  a  bright  red, 
color  the  syrup  with  fruit  coloring. 

Preserved  Blackberries.  Pound  of  blackberries.  To  each  pound 
of  berries  allow  one  half  pound  of  sugar.  Cook  one  hour  slowly, 
skim  carefully. 

Blackberries  cooked  whole  are  hard. 


PICKLES 


Scald  cucumbers  in  vinegar  and  water,  half  of  each.  Then  put 
them  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour  ;  lay  them  in  a  jar.  put  on  red 
and  black  pepper,  spices,  ginger,  horse-radish  and  mustard  seeds  ; 
then  pour  over  boiling  vinegar.  In  twenty-four  hours  your  pickles 
will  be  ready  for  use. 

Pickled  Cucumbers.  Take  twenty-five  pounds  of  cucumbers 
from  the  salt,  soak  twenty-four  hours  in  clear  water  ;  then  pour  the 
following  ingredients  over  them  scalding  hot :  One  pound  of  white 
mustard  seed,  one  pound  of  black  mustard  seed,  one  pound  of  cel- 
ery seed,  one-half  pound  of  whole  allspice,  one-half  pound  of  black 
pepper,  three  pounds  of  brown  sugar,  six  pounds  of  white  onions, 
one  pound  of  red  peppers,  two  pounds  of  green  peppers  (seeds  taken 
out),  two  ounces  of  coreander  seed,  one  ounce  of  cardamum  seed, 
one  ounce  of  turmeric,  one  ounce  of  cinnamon,  one  ounce  of  garlic, 
one  ounce  of  horse-radish,  one  ounce  of  cloves,  one  bottle  of  English 
mustard,  three  gallons  of  cider  vinegar. 

Pickled  Peaches.  Pare  the  peaches,  put  one  whole  clove  into 
each  peach  ;  pack  them  into  a  stone  jar  ;  make  a  syrup  of  three 
pounds  of  sugar,  one  pint  of  good  cider  vinegar  to  every  eight  pounds 
of  fruit,  one  tablespoon  of  whole  allspice,  and  two  tablespoons  of 
cassia  buds.  Boil  the  syrup  and  spices  about  ten  minutes,  and  pour 
over  the  fruit ;  put  a  plate  on  top  of  the  fruit  to  hold  it  down.  Let 
this  stand  twenty-four  hours  ;  then  pour  off  the  syrup  into  the  pre- 
serving kettle;  when  it  boils  put  in  the  fruit  and  boil  it  until  it 
begins  to  be  soft  then  put  the  fruit  in  your  glass  jars,  and  fill  up 
with  the  syrup. 

134 


PROGRESSIVE    (DOKKKV  l:;."i 

Pickled  Onions.  Four  quarts  small  onions.  Put  them  in  boil- 
ing water  ami  remove  the  skins  ;  cover  with  salt  and  let  stand  twenty- 
four  hours.  Remove  from  the  salts,  pour  over  cold  water  and  drain. 
Boil  two  quarts  of  vinegar  with  whole  spices  and  a  pound  of  sugar, 
pour  over  the  onions  and  bottle  when  cold. 

Piccalilli.  To  one  peck  green  tomatoes,  sliced,  add  a  pint  of  salt ; 
«>ver  with  water,  and  let  them  stand  twelve  hours  ;  squeeze  them 
out,  and  let  them  remain  in  fresh  water  a  few  hours.  Take  ten  or 
twelve  preen  peppers  and  seven  large  onions,  put  them  with  the 
tomatoes  and  chop  all  fine  ;  put  them  in  a  porcelain  kettle  with  weak 
vinegar,  and  let  them  boil  or  scald  awhile;  draw  off  the  vinegar 
and  take  some  good  old  cider  vinegar,  a  pint  of  white  mustard  seed, 
and  some  grated  horseradish,  add  two  tablespoons  of  brown  sugar, 
mace,  cinnamon,  cloves,  to  your  taste.  Boil  up  and  pour  over  all 
and  put  away  in  jars. 

Grape  Catsup.  Take  five  pounds  of  grapes,  boil  and  run  through 
a  colander ;  add  two  and  one-half  pounds  of  sugar,  one  pint  of  vine- 
irar.  one  tablespoon  each  of  cinnamon,  cloves,  allspice,  pepper  and 
one-half  tablespoon  of  salt  ;  boil  until  the  catsup  is  a  little  thick. 

Plum  Catsup.  Seven  pounds  of  plums,  four  pounds  of  sugar, 
one  quart  of  vinegar,  one  tablespoon  each  of  cinnamon,  allspice, 
mustard,  ginger,  one-half  tablespoon  cloves,  salt  ;  cook  plums  a  little 
then  put  through  a  colander  ;  add  other  ingredients,  and  boil  slowly 
three  hours. 

Tomato  Catsup.  Twelve  large,  firm,  ripe  tomatoes,  six  green 
peppers,  four  onions,  one-half  cup  brown  sugar,  two  cups  sharp 
vinegar,  one  tablespoon  of  cloves,  two  tablespoons  each  of  cinnamon 
and  allspice,  one  teaspoon  of  black  pepper,  one-half  cup  of  salt.  Cut 
and  stew  tomatoes,  pepper  and  onions  until  soft,  then  strain  and  rub 
through  a  hair  sieve;  add  the  other  ingredients  and  the  vinegar. 


136  PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY 

Cook  slowly  four  or  five  hours  ;  remove  from  stove  ;  when  cold  if 
water  rises  on  the  top  they  have  not  been  cooked  long  enough.  Cook 
again  and  bottle.  Add  more  vinegar  and  seasoning  while  cooking, 
if  desired. 

Green  Tomato  Sweet  Pickle.  One  fruit  basket  of  green  tomatoes, 
slice  medium  thickness,  sprinkle  with  one  teacup  of  salt,  and  drain 
for  twenty-four  hours  on  sieve  or  colander.  Boil  in  two  quarts  of 
water  to  one  of  vinegar  for  twenty-five  minutes  ;  drain  again.  Add 
six  very  large  sliced  onions,  two  pounds  brown  sugar,  one-half  pound 
white  mustard  seed,  two  even  tablespoons  each  of  allspice,  cloves, 
ginger,  mustard,  cinnamon,  one-half  tablespoon  of  cayenne  pepper, 
and  three  quarts  of  vinegar.  Boil  for  twenty  minutes. 


FIG  PICKI,KS 


Seven  pounds  of  figs,  one  pint  of  vinegar,  five  pounds  sugar,  one 
tablespoonful  whole  cloves,  one  stick  of  cinnamon,  a  small  piece  of 
ginger  root  and  two  lemons  sliced  ;  boil  all  together  five  or  ten  min- 
utes ;  prick  the  figs,  and  add  in  portions  to  boiling  syrup;  cook 
fifteen  minutes  ;  strain  the  figs  out,  fill  the  jars.  Continue  thus  till 
all  the  figs  are  cooked.  Pour  over  the  rest  of  the  syrup. 

Sweet  Pickled  Watermelon.  Remove  the  skin  from  the  rind  of 
a  small  watermelon.  Cut  in  inch  cubes.  Put  into  water  and  cook 
till  tender  ;  remove  and  spread  to  cool.  To  five  pounds  of  sugar 
add  one  pint  of  vinegar  ;  boil  up  once.  Tie  up  in  cheese  cloth  whole 
cloves,  cinnamon,  ginger  root  ;  add  to  the  syrup.  Put  in  the  water- 
melon rind,  cook  till  transparent. 


BEVERAGES 


Filtered  Coffee.  Heat  coffee,  and  grind  it  very  fine.  Put  in  the 
filterer,  and  place  the  coffee-pot  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  on 
the  back  of  stove.  For  one  cup  of  coffee  add  one  cup  of  boil- 
ing water.  Cover,  and  let  stand  five  minutes.  Then  add  another 
cup  of  water.  Continue  adding  boiling  water  every  two  minutes 
till  four  cups  have  been  used. 

Coffee.  One  tablespoon  of  coffee  for  the  coffee-pot,  and  one  table- 
spoon for  each  person,  for  one  cup  of  coffee,  or  allow  one  cup  of  coffee 
to  every  quart  of  water.  Let  it  soak  over  night.  In  the  morning 
set  on  the  stove,  and  let  it  just  come  to  a  boil.  Remove  and  let 
settle. 

Coffee  ( with  Egg).  One  cup  of  finely  ground  coffee  and  one  egg 
mixed  well  together  with  two  tablespoons  of  cold  water.  Pour  over 
one  quart  of  boiling  water  ;  let  boil  five  minutes.  To  make  good 
tea  and  coffee  the  -H'titcr  itmxt  be  boiling,  not  aim /»/•/•/'////.  To  make 
coffee  for  picnics,  festivals,  etc.,  put  in  flannel  bags,  pour  boiling 
water  on,  and  let  boil  ten  minutes.  This  is  by  fat  the  most  satis- 
factory way  of  preparing  for  large  gatherings. 

I!lack  coffee  is  made  twice  as  strong  as  other  coffee. 

Vienna  coffee  is  the  addition  of  whipped  cream  piled  on  each  cup. 

Cafe  au  I. ait  is  half  coffee  and  half  hot  milk. 

Coffee  and  cognac  is  brandy  or  cognac  poured  over  lumps  of  suirar; 
set  on  fire  ;  when  it  stops  burning  add  one  teaspoon  to  each  cup  of 
black  coffee. 

A  pinch  of  soda  added  to  coffee  when  it  is  cooked  takes  away  the 
acidity. 

137 


138  PROGRESSIVE   COOKERY 

How  to  Serve  Coffee,  etc.  Cream,  cube  sugar  and  scalded  milk 
are  essential  to  good  breakfast  and  lunch  coffee.  The  milk  should 
be  hot.  Boiled  milk  gives  an  unpleasant  flavor.  Put  sugar,  cream, 
and  milk  in  the  cup  before  pouring  in  the  coffee.  No  milk  or  cream 
for  dinner  parties. 

Tea.  Allow  one  teaspoon  to  the  teapot,  and  one  for  each  person. 
Put  tea  in  earthen  teapot,  and  pour  boiling  water  over  ;  let  stand  in 
hot  place  a  few  moments.  Put  sugar  and  cream  in  the  cup,  and  then 
pour  over  tea. 

Iced  Tea.  Fill  a  glass  with  chipped  ice  ;  lay  on  the  ice  three  or 
four  lumps  of  sugar  ;  squeeze  over  this  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
then  pour  over  the  mixture  freshly  made  hot  tea.  Less  lemon  juice 
may  be  used,  or  more  sugar  added,  as  preferred. 

Tea  a  la  Russe.  Russian  tea  is  made  on  the  table  by  the  hostess. 
Three  heaping  tablespoons  of  black  tea,  pour  over  boiling  water 
enough  to  cover  ;  let  it  infuse  for  a  short  time.  Then  add  boiling 
water  as  needed.  Into  each  tumbler  squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice,  add 
a  slice  of  lemon,  and  sweeten  ;  pour  over  the  tea.  The  old  Russian 
style  is  to  serve  with  rum. 

Spanish  Chocolate.  Two  ounces  of  chocolate  to  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  one  teaspoon  of  cinnamon.  Break  the  chocolate  into  a  tin 
saucepan,  with  two  tablespoons  of  water  ;  set  on  a  slow  fire  ;  stir 
until  melted.  Heat  the  milk  in  another  pan,  and  when  hot  turn 
into  the  chocolate  little  by  little,  working  well  with  a  moudliere  or  a 
Dover  beater.  Cook  six  minutes,  and  serve  with  whipped  cream 
piled  on  each  cup. 

Cocoa  Shells.  One  cup  of  cocoa  shells,  three  pints  of  cold  water. 
Pour  the  water  over  them  ;  soak  over  night.  Boil  in  the  same  water 
one-half  hour.  Cocoa  shells  are  wholesome  and  inexpensive,  and 
are  better  when  the  nut  is  broken  in  with  them. 


rnoKKKY  139 

Eggnog.  Beat  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  add  one  teaspoon  of  sugar, 
beat  again,  and  add  a  teaspoon  of  brandy  and  one  cup  of  milk.  Beat 
the  white  of  the  egg  and  pile  on  the  top.  Grate  over  a  little  nutmeg. 

Punch.  Put  one  teaspoon  of  black  tea  in  a  bowl  with  one  clove, 
a  small  piece  of  cinnamon,  and  a  lemon  cut  in  small  pieces  ;  pour 
over  this  one  quart  of  boiling  water.  Put  one-half  of  a  bottle  of 
brandy  in  an  earthen  bowl,  and  add  over  half  a  cup  of  sugar.  Set 
on  fire  ;  when  it  stops  burning,  add  to  the  tea  mixture.  Have 
a  lump  of  ice  in  punch  bowl,  and  add  the  strained  punch. 

Another  Way. — Grate  the  rind  of  one  lemon  and  two  oranges, the 
yellow  only,  on  a  piece  of  sugar,  put  in  a  bowl  with  pint  of  cold 
water  to  dissolve  it,  add  two  gills  of  pineapple  syrup,  a  pint  of  claret, 
one  pint  of  Catawba,  Sauterne,  or  Rhine  wine,  one  pint  of  Cham- 
pagne, and  a  gill  of  brandy  ;  sweeten  to  taste,  strain,  and  put  on  ice 
for  some  time  before  serving. 

Currant  Ice  Water.  Press  the  juice  from  ripe  currants,  strain, 
add  one-half  pound  of  sugar  to  every  pint  of  juice.  The  sugar  may 
be  dissolved  either  by  stirring  it  in  the  juice  in  a  saucepan  over  the 
fire,  or  by  putting  it  in  bottles,  setting  them  over  the  fire  in  a  sauce- 
pan of  cold  water,  allowing  them  to  become  gradually  heated  to  a 
boiling  point.  When  cold,  cork,  seal,  and  put  in  a  cool,  dry  pla< •<•. 
Mix  with  ice  water  fora  beverage.  The  juiceof  other  acid  fruits  may 
be  preserved  in  a  like  manner. 

Raspberry  Vinegar.  Raspberry  vinegaror  shrub.  Cover  berries 
with  vinegar  and  soak  over  night.  Drain  off  or  squeeze  out  the  juice, 
to  every  pint  of  which  add  one  pound  of  sugar.  Let  it  simmer  about 
fifteen  minutes.  When  cool,  bottle. 


CANDIES 


Huyler's  White  Fondant.  Two  and  one-half  cups  of  granulated 
sugar,  one  and  one-half  cups  of  cold  water.  Boil  to  246°  After  the 
mixture  begins  to  boil  wash  down  the  sides  with  a  brush  to  prevent 
graining,  but  do  not  stir  ;  wet  the  brush  in  cold  water.  For  tough 
cream  add  one-quarter  of  a  teaspoon ful  of  cream  tartar  ;  pour  out 
mixture  and  work  to  a  cream  ;  then  put  away  covered  tight  for  three 
.  days. 

Huyler's  Coffee  Fondant.  One-half  pound  of  coffee,  one  and 
one-half  cups  of  water,  two  and  one-half  pounds  of  A  sugar.  Put 
coffee  and  water  into  a  dish,  steep  until  ready  to  boil  ;  remove  at 
once,  strain,  add  sugar,  and  boil  to  245°,  as  directed  above. 

Cream  for  Candy.  Two  cups  of  sugar,  one  small  cup  of  water  : 
boil  fifteen  minutes  without  stirring.  Try,  and  if  drops  come  off 
quickly,  boil  a  moment,  then  try  again,  and  if  the  drops  come  slow 
and  thick,  and  after  the  last  a  short,  thick  end  remains,  the  point  is 
nearly  reached  ;  the  next  dip  will  leave  a  long,  floating  hair.  Pour 
into  a  bowl,  and  when  just  warm  beat  until  white  and  creamy  and 
thick  ;  then  you  can  work  in  your  hands.  Put  in  a  tumbler  and 
cover  with  an  oiled  paper. 

Pop  Corn  Candy.  .  One  pint  of  molasses,  one-half  pint  of  white 
sugar,  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  level  teaspoon  of  sugar,  four  quarts 
of  pop  corn.  Boil  until  when  dropped  in  cold  water  it  is  brittle. 
Flour  a  board  and  pour  the  mixture  over  it.  Pile  the  pop  corn  on 
the  top  and  press  down.  When  nearly  cold  crease  into  squares. 

140 


PROGRESSIVE    rooKKKY  141 

Baby  Cream.  Four  cups  granulated  sugar,  one  cup  of  water, 
fresh  butter  size  of  an  egg. 

Cream  Peppermints.  Make  a  syrup  of  one-half  of  a  pint  of^ 
water,  ten  ounces  of  granulated  sugar.  Boil  to  230  degrees.  Add 
one-half  of  a  teaspoon  of  cream  of  tartar.  If  not  stiff  enough,  add 
powdered  sugar.  Color  pink  and  flavor  with  wintergreen  if  wished. 
Drop  on  marble  or  into  forms. 

Fruit  Bonbons.  Take  some  big  strawberries,  ripe  but  firm,  and 
hull  them.  Then  mix  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  with  a  little 
less  than  one  cupful  of  cold  water.  Put  the  mixture  on  a  hot  fire 
and  let  it  boil  hard,  without  stirring,  until  a  spoonful  dropped  into 
cold  water  crystallizes  to  the  brittle  point  immediately.  Now  take 
it  off  the  fire  and  pour  into  a  bowl  previously  warmed  in  the  oven. 
Dip  the  strawberries,  one  by  one,  into  this  hot  solution  as  quickly 
as  possible,  fishing  them  out  with  forks  and  laying  them  on  greased 
tin  pans.  The  briefest  sort  of  an  immersion  will  be  sufficient  to 
give  each  berry  the  desired  coating  of  sugar  candy.  Finally,  set  the 
pans  on  the  ice  in  the  refrigerator,  and  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  cold  it 
will  be  ready  to  eat.  Malaga  grapes  and  nuts  as  well  may  be  treated 
in  the  same  way. 

Cream  for  French  Candies.  Four  cups  of  granulated  sugar. 
Pour  over  the  sugar  one  cup  of  boiling  water  ;  stir  till  dissolved; 
add  two  tablespoons  of  glucose;  boil.  When  dropped  in  cold  water, 
a  ball  ran  be  made.  Pour  out;  beat  till  thick.  Put  on  a  marble 
slab  and  work  till  creamy. 


MEANING    OF    TERMS    USED    IN 
COOKING 


A  la,  au,  aux,  Dressed  in  a  certain  style. 

A  la  Poulette,  Meat  or  fish,  etc.,  warmed  in  white  sauce,  with 
yolks  of  eggs  added. 

An  Beurre  roux,  With  browned  butter. 

Bisque,  A  shell-fish  soup. 

Croustade,  Or  oyster  loaf..  Cut  off  the  end  of  a  German  loaf  of 
bread,  remove  the  inside,  fill  in  with  hot  oysters,  put  on  the  end  or 
cover. 

Chervil,  Sweet  parsley  used  in  French  salad. 

En  Coquille,  Served  in  shells. 

£"71  Papillate,  In  papers. 

Glaze,  Stock  of  preserves  boiled  down  to  a  thin  paste. 

Jardiniere,  A  mixed  preparation  of  vegetables  stewed  in  stock  and 
garnished  with  green  peas. 

Maitre  d'hotel,  Master  of  the  hotel. 

Menu,  Bill  of  fare. 

Truffles,  A  fungus  growing  in  clusters  a  few  inches  underground, 
having  an  agreeable  perfume.  Dogs  are  trained  to  find  them.  They 
cannot  be  cultivated.  Used  in  seasoning  and  garniture. 

Puree,  A  soup  rubbed  through  a  French  sieve. 

Quenelles,  A  forcemeat  powdered  before  cooking. 

Vol-au-vent,  A  large  round  of  puff  paste,  with  the  centre  round 
filled  with  oysters,  French  hash,  etc. 

142 


PROGRESSIVE    COOKERY  Ho 

Rour,  Butter  and  flour  blended  together  in  different  ways. 
Angelica,  A  plant  preserved  and  made  into  candy. 
Tarragon,  An  herb,  the  leaves  of   which  are  added  to  vinegar, 
called  tarragon  vinegar. 

An  lu'rli  having  a  perfume  like  cloves,  used  in  seasoning. 

A   s-Oirub  with  small,  tender  stalks,  having  the  flavor  of 
onions.     Chopped  and  used  in  salads. 
P<iic  an  chouy,  Cream  cake  paste. 


ERRATA 


Page  59,  lid  line,  after  llth  word,  read  "yelks  of  t\v<>  eggs."  etc. 

Page  76,  OYSTER  SALAD,  1st  line,  instead  "One-third  cup,"  read   "one 
nip  or  more." 

Page  81,  OLD  TIME  SPONGE  CAKE,  6th  line,  instead  of  "flour"  read 
"  fold  in  the  well-beaten  whites." 

Page  83,  COCOAXUT  CAKE,  6th  line,  after  "corn  starch"  omit  "and 
soda." 

Page  115,  BISCUIT,  3d  line,  instead  of  the  word  "flour"  read  "butter 
and  lard." 


K 


NOX'S  SPARKLING 


Gelatine 


THE  PUREST  MADE 


THE  ONLY  GELATINE  endorsed  and 
used  by  the  Scientific  Cooking  De- 
partment at  the  Boston  Pure  Food 
and  Health  Exposition 

RECEIVED  MEDAL  of  Superiority  over 
all  Brands,  Domestic  and  Foreign,  at 
the  American  Institute  Fair,  New 
York It  is  the 

QUICKEST  DISSOLVING  Gelatine  made 
and  the  only  Gelatine  with  no  odor  or 
taste.  Your  Grocer  should  keep  it 
for  every  Grocer  who  wants  .... 

PURE     GOODS    has    it   or    can    get  it. 


CHARLES  B.  KNOX 

Manufacturer 

Johnstown,  N.  Y. 


INDEX 


BREAD 

Brown— Boiled,  113 

Brown —Steamed,  113 

Brown— Raised,  113 

Biscuit,  115 

Biscuit— Egg,  115 

Biscuit,  Maryland,  114 

Corncake,  116 

Corn  cake— Southern,  116 

Corncake — Sponge,  116 

Corncake — scalded,  114 

Graham  Puffs,  114 

Hominy  and  Corn  Meal  Cakes,  116 

Indian  Cakes— Fried,  116 

Lemon  Sauce,  115 

Muffins— Rye,  114 

Pop  Overs,  114 

Raised  Waffles,  115 

Rolls— Parker  House,  112 

Sticks,  112 

Water  Bread,  111 

Yeast— Hard,  111 

Yeast— Hop,  111 

Yeast— Potato,  111 


BEVERAGES 
Coffee,  137 
Coffee  with  egg,  137 
Coffee,  Filtered,  137 
Coffee,  How  to  Serve,  137 
Cocoa  Shells,  138 
Currant  Ice  Water,  139 
Eggnog,  139 
Punch,  139 

Raspberry  Vinegar,  139 
Spanish  Chocolate,  138 
Tea,  138 
Tea,  Iced,  138 
Tea,  a  la  Russe,  138 


CAKES 

Apple,  87 

Banana,  87 

Baba  au  Rhum,  81 


Baking  Powders,  80 

Brandy  Snap,  85 

Chocolate,  81 

Citron,  82 

Cocoanut,  83 

Coffee,  86 

Cup,  82 

Cream,  90 

Cream  for  Cream  Cakes,  90 

Directions  for  Making,  78 

Dorcas,  84 

Dutch  Apple,  88 

Diamond  Sponge,  81 

Filling  for,  84 

Frosting— Chocolate,  90 

"         No.  1,  89 

"         Old  Time,  No.  2,  89 
Gold,  86 

Huckleberry,  89 
Ice  Cream,  83 
.  Icing — Boiled,  89 
Icing,  Cold  Water,  89 
Icing,  Chocolate  No.  1,  89 
Icing,  Chocolate  No.  2,  90 
Lady  Fingers  or  Sponge  Drops,  80 
Measure  or  Fourth,  85 
Molasses  Ginger  Bread,  87 
Molasses  Ginger  Cakes,  87 
Nut,  87 

Old  Time  Sponge,  81 
Orange,  Lemon  or  Pineapple,  88 
Porcupine,  83 
Pound,  84 

Princess  or  Angel,  85 
Quick,  82 
Rock,  86 
Sally  Lunn,  89 
Sponge,  80 
Silver,  86 

Strawberry  Short,  88 
Sunshine,  85 

To  Prepare  Lemons,  Oranges   or  Pine- 
apples for  Layer  Cakes,  88 
Venetian,  87 
Wafers— Walnut,  86 
Wafers— Lemon,  82 


146 


INDEX 


147 


Weddinir,  84 
White,  84 


CANDIES 

Baby  Cream,  141 
Cream  for,  140 

Cream  for  French  Candies,  141 
Fondant— Huyler's  White,  140 
Fondant— Huyler's  Coffee,  140 
Fruit  Bonbons,  141 
Peppermints — Cream,  141 
Pop  Corn,  140 

DOUGHNUTS,  GRIDDLK  CAKES,  KTC 
Beans,  128 
Beans,  Baked,  128 
Beans  Samp  and  Spanish,  128 
Buckwheat  Cakes,  125 
Cottage  Cheese,  126 
Chocolate  Butter,  127 
Cracker  Brewis,  127 
Crullers,  122 
Doughnuts,  122 
Doughnuts,  Raised,  122 
Fritter  Batter.  123 
Fritters— Apple,  124 
Fritters— Clam,  124 
Fritters— Corn,  124 
Fritters— Cooked  Oatmeal,  124 
Fritters— Dresden,  124 
Fritters— Egg  Plant,  123 
German  Toast,  127 
Golden  Buck,  126 
Griddle  Cakes,  125 
Ham  Sandwiches  a  la  Parisienne,  127 
Lop  Scotch,  128 
Mush— Fried,  126 
Mush— Indian  Meal,  126 
Mush— Oatmeal,  126 
Rice  Griddle  Cakes,  125 
Rolled  Griddle  Cakes,  125 
Sandwiches,  i_'7 
Turnovers— Fried,  123 
Turnovers,  Russian,  123 
Welsh  Rarebit,  126 

DESSERTS 

Apple  Charlotte,  101 

Apples  Cooked  in  Syrup,  108 

Apples— Another  Way,  108 

Apple  Dessert,  99 

Apple  Snow,  99 

Baked  Apples  with  Stale  Bread,  99 

Bavarian  Cream,  97 

Bombe  Glace,  103 

Charlotte  Russe,  100 

Charlotte  Russe  Filling  with  Gelatine, 

100 

Cream  Whips,  101 
Custard— Boiled,  105, 106 
Custard— Richer.  106 
Custard— Virginia  Caramel,  106 
Fruit  Juices,  98 
<;iaee  Meringue,  ii'.: 
(iiiiL'i-r  API 
Ice  Cream— Banana,  103 


Ice  Cream— Rich,  102 

Ice  Cream — Southern,  102 

Ice  Cream— Fruit.  98 

Ice  Cream— Royal,  97 

Jelly— Orange,  Lemon  or  Wine,  '.(7 

Lemon  Foam,  107 

Moonshine,  106 

Mousse— Chocolate,  103 

Mousse — Strawberry,  104 

Nesselrode  Pudding,  105 

Orange  with  Claret  Wine,  107 

Prombiere,  103 

Roman  Punch,  104 

Salted  Almonds,  105 

Salted  Almonds,  No.  2, 105 

Sherbet— Pineapple,  104 

Sherbet— Strawberry,  104 

Siberian  Cream,  107 

Snow  Pudding,  98 

Stewed  Pie  Plant,  108 

Tapioca  Blanc  Mange,  107 

Tapioca  Cream,  107 

To  Whip  Cream— Syllabub,  101 

To  Whip  Cream— Stiff,  101 

Boos 

A  la  Duchese,  34 
A  la  Patti,  34 
Egg  Nests  on  Toast,  35 
Hard  Boiled,  34 
Omelette,  34 
Omelette,  French,  35 
Soft  Boiled,  34 
Stuffed,  35 

ENTBEKS 

Aspeeof  Fillets  of  Chicken,  57 

Aspic  Jelly,  58 

Baked  Bell  Peppers,  51 

Baked  Macaroni,  62 

Baked  Oysters,  58 

Barbecued  Ham,  67 

Beefsteak  and  Sweetbreads,  56 

Brains,  57 

Brown  Gravy  and  Sweetbreads,  5tJ. 

Calf's  Head  a  la  Turk,  67 

Cheese  Fondu,  54 

Creme  Frtte,  66 

Crouquettes— Chicken,  64. 

Crouquettes— Rice,  54 

Croustades  of  Asparagus,  61 

Crouxtades  of  Rice,  60 

Cutlets  a  la  Main  tenon,  55 

Cutlets,  Lobster,  55 

( 'urried  Oysters,  60 

Devilled  Crab,  65 

Kscalloped  Calves'  Brains,  67 

Fancy  Roast  (Oysters),  59 

Fillet  of  Chicken,  63 

Fried  Oysters,  58 

Frieasse  of  Chicken,  67 

Frogs  I-egs  a  la  Cream,  65 

Gallatinof  Chicken, 63 

Glaze.  64 

Honolulu  Curry,  67 

Kidney  Stew  with  Sweetbreads,  til) 

Liles  aux  Kmoules,  66 


148 


l.NUKX 


Lobster  a  la  Newburp,  57 
Macaroni,  02 

Macaroni  and  Tomatoes,  62 
Macaroni  Italian  Style,  61 
Oysters  and  Bacon,  59 
Oysters  en  Beurre  Nbir,  69 
Oysters  en  Coquille,  59 
Oysters  a  la  Poulette,  58 
Peppers  a  laEspagnol,  61 
Pigeon  or  Quail  au  D61iee,  57 
Poached  Eggs  and  Mushrooms,  61 
Quenelles,  65 
Rissoles  or  Ceciles,  66 
Scalloped  Chicken,  64 
Shrimps,  66 
Smothered  Chicken,  64 
Sweetbreads,  55 
Sweetbreads  a  la  Marengo,  56 
Sweetbreads,  Larded,  56 
Timballs  of  Chicken,  63 
Timballs  of  Salmon,  62 


FISH 

A  la  Cream,  30 

A  la  Normandie,  28 

A  la  Russe,  31 

Baked  Fish,  32 

Baked  with  Oil  and  Tomatoes,  29 

Breaded  Turbans  of  Flounders,  2H 

Broiled  Salt  Fish,  33 

Clam  Chowder,  32 

Cooked  Fresh  Herbs,  29 

Dry  Stuffing  for  Fish,  32 

Fish  Chowder,  29,  32 

Fish  Cooked  with  Oysters,  29 

Fish  en  Papillote,  29 

Fried  Fish,  30 

Hash  Salt  Fish,  33 

Oyster  Forcemeat,  30 

Pompano  en  Papillote,  31 

Salmon  Pudding,  32 

Salt  Fish  Balls,  33 

Shell  Fish,  31 

Stuffed  Smelts,  30 


JELLIES  AND  PRESERVES 

Apple  Jelly,  132 

Canned  Peaches,  131 

Currant  Jelly,  132 

Grape  Jelly,  131 

Orange  Marmalade,  131 

Preserved  Blackberries,  133 

Preserved  Cherries,  130 

Preserved  Pears,  77, 130 

Preserved  Tomatoes,  131 

Spiced  Grape,  132 

Strawberry  or  Raspberry  Preserves,  133 

Yellow  Tomato  Preserves,  12U 
Meaning  of  Terms  used  in  Cooking,  142, 143. 


MEATS 

A  Bad  Habit,  36 
Beef  Tea,  41 
Boiled  Chicken.  42,  43 
Boiled  Ham.  42 


Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton,  42 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton  a  la  Francaise,  42 

Braizing,  37 

Broiling,  40 

Broiled  Liver,  45 

Broiling  in  Paper,  41 

Broiled  Venison  Steaks,  40 

Brown  .Beef  Stew,  44 

Chestnut  Stuffing,  39 

Cold  Veal,  38 

Corned  Beef,  43 

Cottage  Pie,  44 

Drippings,  44 

Dumplings  for  Stews,  45 

Fillet  of  Mutton  Chops,  41 

Fried  Liver,  45 

Game,  39 

Gravy,  39 

Gravy  for  Roast  Meat,  37 

Hamburg  Steak,  45 

Hash,  43 

Hashed  Corn  Beef,  43 

Hash  a  la  Francaise,  43 

How  to  Wash  Meat,  36 

How  to  Dress  Poultry,  38 

Liver  au  Lit,  45 

Maitre  d' Hotel  Butter,  40 

Minced  Meat  on  Toast,  44 

Mutton  Chops  or  Veal  Cutlets  Breaded, 

41 

Roast  Fowl,  38 
Roasting  Meats,  37 
Saddle  of  Venison,  Larded,  39 
Sauteing  or  Pan  Frying,  41 
Scalloped  Mutton,  44 
Stuffing,  39 
Veal,  37 
Venison,  40 


PASTRY 

Banana  Pie,  121 

Cheese  Biscuits,  118 

Cheese  Sticks,  118 

Cheese  Sticks,  No.  2,  118 

Custard  Pie,  121 

Lemon  Pie,  120 

Lemon  Filling  (for  tarts),  121 

Marlborouph  Pie,  119 

Meringue,  120 

Mince  Pie,  120 

Patties  119 

Pie  Plant,  or  Rhubarb  Pie,  121 

Puff  Paste,  117 

Rough  Puff  Paste,  117 

Short  Pie  Crust,  118 

Sliced  Apple  Pie,  119 

Tarts,  119 

Vol  au  Vent,  119 

Green  Tomato  Sweet  Pickled,  130 
Grape  Catsup,  1:15 
Pickled  Cucumbers,  134 
Pickled  Peaches,  134 
Pickled  Onions,  135 
Piccalilli,  135 


IMiKX 


149 


Plum  Catsup,  135 
Sweet  Fig  Pickles,  136 
Sweet  Pickled  Watermelon. 
Tomato  Catsup.  1  '•',<'< 


PUDDINCS 
Amber,  95 
Apple  Pot  Pie,  94 
Apple  Snowballs,  92 
Banana,  94 
Batter,  :>:', 
Hatter  No.  2,93 
Bird's-Nest,  93 
Boiled  Apple  Dumplings,  :»i 
Bread,  94 
champlain,  '.i.~> 
Chantilly,  91 
English  Plum,  93 
German,  '.»4 
Cinder  Suet,  95 
(irnham  Flour,  % 
Pineapple,  96 
Plain  Hread,  93 
Plain  Suet,  95 
Prune  Souffle,  92 
Roly  Poly,  '.r, 
Rum  Omelette  92 
Snow  Halls,  HI 
Vanilla  SoiitHe,  92 
Yorkshire  Puddiim  for  Roast  Jieef.  W 


Prj)inN<;  s  VUCES 
Brandy,  Itf.i 
Caramel,  109 
Cream,  109 
Hard,  110 
I-einon,  109 
Madeira  or  Rum,  109 
Molasses,  110 
Snowdrift,  110 
Whipped  Strawberry,  110 


SAUCES 

Anchovy  and  Shrimp,  4* 

Bechamel  or  Whit.-.  I.; 

Bechamel,  Yellow,  I'.' 

Bernaise,  49 

Bread  Sauce  for  Game,  48 

Brown,  I'.i 

Brown  Mushroom,  47 

Celery,  47 

Cream  Mushroom,  47 

Currant  Jelly,  48 

Drawn  Butter,  If. 

-.47 

Hollandaise.  46 
Madeira  or  Port  Wine,  1* 
Oyster.  17 
Plquante,48 
Robert.  47 
Spanish,  iv  !'> 
Tomato,  17 


S  U  i  KS  WITH    (til. 

Boiled  Dressing.  :•:: 
French  Dressing,  :>1 
(ireen  Salad  Pressing,  52 
Mayonnaise  Dressing,  52 
Remoullde,  51 
Sauce  et  Garniture,  ,'rj 
Sauce  Tartare,  ~>t 


SOUPS 

Baked  Crackers,  L'I, 

Baked  Crackers  with  Clieesi 

Bisque  of  Clams.  22 

Bisque  of  Crab,  25 

Black  Bean,  24 

Bouquet,  20 

Cardinal,  26 

Celery,  -Jt; 

Cheese  Canopees,  2t! 

claret,  25 

Clearing  for  Consomme  or  Bouillon,  17 

Consomme  or  White  Soup  Stock,  17 

Cream  of  Lettuce,  22 

Cream  of  Rice,  22 

Crouton  for  Soup.  25 

Crouton  Souffle,  26 

Dark  Meat  Stock,  17 

(iuinbo,  21 

Italian,  20 

Julienne,  18 

Lentil,  19 

Lobster  Bisque,  23 

Macaroni  and  Vermicelli,  IK 

Meat,  17 

Meat  Glaze,  20 

Mixed  Vegetable,  19 

Mock  Bisque,  25 

Mock  Turtle,  20 

Mullagatawney  or  Pepper  Pot.  ."J 

Noodles  for  Soup,  19 

Okra  Gumbo,  27 

Ox  Tail,  ->0 

Potage  a  la  Reine.  21 

Puree  of  <;r.-en  Peas,  etc.,  21 

Puree  of  Spinach,  21 

I! ice.  Tapioca  and  Barley,  18 

Royal  Custard.  1* 

tout  Pea.  19 

Tomato,  18 

Velvet,  24 


VEGKTABLEH 

A  Southern  Dish,  fi9 
AsparagD- 

As|iarnKUs  Salad,  77 
Artichokes.  74 
Baked  Canlillo-.v 
Baked  Tomatoes,  73 
Beets,  7J 

Boiled  Onions,  7:i 
Boiled  K ice.  75 

Clllihllfe.  71 

Carrots.  Turnips,  72 
Chicken  Salad,  75 
F.gg  Plant.  7 1 
Fried  Bananas.  71 


150 


INDEX 


Fried  Cucumbers,  74 

French  Potato  in  Brown  Butter,  71 

Green  Peas,  71 

Lettuce,  73 

Lettuce  Salad,  75 

Lobster  Salads,  76 

Mint  Sauce  for  Lamb,  70 

Mushrooms,  Stewed,  74 

Onions,  Baked,  73 

Oyster  Salad,  76 

Potato  Boats,  68 

Potato  Cakes,  70 

Potato  Souffle,  70 

Potato  Salad,  75 

Potatoes,  Creamed,  68 

Potatoes,  Boiled,  70 

Potatoes  with  Bacon,  69 


Potatoes,  Escallope,  69 
Potatoes  au  Gratin,  69 
Potatoes  Maitre  d'Hotel,  68 
Potatoes  Mashed,  70 
Potatoes,  Lyonnaise,  68 
Potatoes,  Rice,  70 
Potatoes,  Saratoga,  71 
Potatoes,  Scalloped,  69 
Rice  a  la  Carolina,  74 
Spinach,  73 
String  Beans,  72 
Shrimp  or  Crab  Salad,  77 
Succotash,  72 
Stewed  Cucumbers,  74 
Tomatoes,  74 
Tomato  Salad,  75 


FOR  COOKIN6 

A  Camp  Fire  Is  Good  •     ^ 

A  Wood  or  Coal  Stove  Is  Better  ~~^* 

But  a    6AS  STOVE  Is  Best 


GAS  COOKING    ^^SBSl^k     GAS  WATER 
STOVES  ^gBJ  HEATERS 


ASBESTOS     ^TjWfc^SBI  UGAS  CLOTHES 

GAS  GRATES  jf 06  M       DRYERS 


First  Cost  of  Gas  Cooking  Stove  is  Moderate 
Running:  Expense- $2.00  to  $4.00  per  Month 


LIGHT  OB. 


y~"~     STOVE  DEPARTMENT        16  POST  STREET 

^iUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUf? 


LOLA  MONTEZ  GREME 


Arouses  the  skin  to  action,  prevents  wrinkles, 
feeds  the  impoverished  skin  and  muscles.  Without 
its  use,  presently  the  tissues  shrink  and  the  skin 
loses  its  youthful  plumpness  and  becomes  furrowed 
with  the  wrinkles  of  lire's  devastating  waste,  pre- 
vents the  skin  from  becoming  tanned,  freckled  or 
rough  by  exposure  to  the  weather.  One  application 
of  the  Skin  Food  acts  like  a  charm.  At  the  moun- 
tains or  seaside  it  is  indispensable.  Price  75  cents. 
Sold  everywhere  or  sent  on  receipt  of  price  by  mail. 

HOW  CAN  YOU  TOLERATE 

Freckles,  Pimples,  Blackheads,  Yellow  or  Muddy 
Skin,  Moth,  Wrinkles  or  any  form  of  facial  disfigure- 
ments when  MRS.  NETTIE  HARRISON  guarantees  to 
cure  you?  Don't  consider  your  case  a  hopeless  one. 
In  addition  to  this  I  offer  you  one  treatment  free 
at  my  office  any  time  you  call.  Bring  your  physician 
along  if  you  desire  and  get  his  opinion.  I  will  give 
each  caller  this  week  a  box  of  my  SKIN  FOOD — LOLA 
MONTEZ  CREME— free  as  a  test. 

Mrs.  Nettie  Harrison,  America's  Beauty  Doctor 

26  Geary  St.,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 


Mrs.  Nettie  Harrison  Removes  Superfluous  Hair  by  the  Electric  Needle,  Guaranteed  Permanently 


Have  a  very  complete  Printing  Plant 
Employing  Sixty-four  People 

Six  Large  Cylinder  Presses 
Of  latest  design 


Do  our  own  Binding 
Employing  Fourteen  People 

Eight  Job  Presses 
Finest  in  the  World 


Sao  FraQCi&CO  PriQtiQg  Co. 

JAS.  A.   PARISER,   MANAGER 

411    MARKET   STREET 

Lachman    Building 


We  print  the  "  Californian 
Illustrated  Magazine  " 

The  Largest  Sheet  of  Paper 
Ever  printed  on  the  Coast 


Employ  our  own  staff  of  Artists 
Make  our  own  Engravings 

Work  Cheaply 
But  do  no  cheap  work 


It  Pays  to  Buy  the  Best  of 
Goods,  Especially  Flour 


m 

n 


C/l 


DRIFTED        1 


u 


SNOW 
FLOUR 


The  Acknowledged  Leader 
of  Pacific  Coast  Flours 


SPERRY  FLOUR  COMPANY. 

134  California  Street. 


Dr.  Price's  Cream  Baking 
Powder. 


COSMOS  CLUB,  SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 

February  ist,  1892. 

I  am  using  Dr.  Price's  Cream  Baking  Powder  be- 
cause I  consider  it  superior  to  any  other  brand  on 
the  market.  It  is  a  quick  and  a  certain  worker  and 
gives  us  entire  satisfaction. 

CHAS.  RANDALL, 

Steward  of  the  Cosmos  Club. 


SUTTER  CLUB,  SACRAMENTO,  CAL. 

April  xoth,   1892. 

I  am  using  Dr.  Price's  Cream  Baking  Powder  and 
consider  it  one  of  the  purest,  strongest  and  most 
economical  of  the  high  class  powders. 

I  have  made  the  usual  grocer's  tests  for  impur- 
ites  and  find  it  free  from  them  and  altogether  whole- 
some. 

By  comparison   I   find   the  leavening  power  is 
greater  and  it  will  therefore  do  more  work  for  the 
money  than  any  other  powder  I  have  used. 
Respectfully  yours, 

H,  LUDDEN,  Steward  Sutter  Club. 
THE  PALACE,          ) 

"     OCCIDENTAL,     f   San  Francisco. 
"     BALDWIN,          J 

THE  PORTLAND 
at  Portland,  Ore. 

THE  RANIER 

at  Seattle,  Wash.  all  use 


POWDER. 


Home 


1221  O'FARRELL  STREET,  SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 


Library,  Employment  Bureau,  Del  Sarte  and  Elocution  Classes,  Free  to 
members  of  the  Home.  Concerts  and  Entertainments  are  given  on  the 
Fourth  Tuesday  Evening  of  each  month,  at  8  o'clock,  free.  Sewing,  Training, 
Dressmaking  and  Cooking  Classes,  free,  Saturday,  10  A.  M. 

Branch:     514    HOWARD    STREET 

LUNCH  SERVED  EVERY  DAY 

Millinery,   Dressmaking,  Sewing  and  Training  Classes.      Praise  "and  Social 
Meeting  Thursday  Evening. 


Ube  Mine  of  tbe  Elite 

UNEXCELLED  FOR 

BOUQUET,  DELICACY,  DRYNESS 


USED  AT  ALL 


Banquets,  Dinners,  Parties 


The  only  California  Champagne  produced  by 
Fermentation  in  the  bottles,  the  same  as  all  High 
Grade  French  Brands. 


FINE  OLD  TABLE  HIKE? 

Zmfandel  Claret,  Riesling,  Hock,  Burgundy, 
Sherries,  Ports  and  Brandies, 

CHATEAU  d'ORI/E  ANS.—  The  highest 
grade  Claret  made  in  America. 

CABERNET  BIyEND.— The  richest  and 
finest  of  Table  Clarets. 

O.  V.  CHABUS.— Possessed  of  all  the 
delicate  pungency  of  its  French  Counter- 
part. 

O.  V.  SATJTERNE.— With  the  exact 
character  and  Seve  of  the  Imported 
Sauterne. 

Chateau  d'Orleans  and  O.  V.  Chablis  sold  only 
in  glass. 


ARPAD  HARASZTHY  &  Co. 

GROWERS  AND  DEALERS 

53O    Washington    Street 
SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 


Toboggai)  Brai)d 
SyrOp 


.    .   Absolutely  Pure 

The  above  Maple  Syrup  obtained  the  only  award  at  the 
last  MECHANICS  FAIR.  Prof.  Rising,  State  Analyist,  vouches 
for  its  purity,  and  $1000.00  reward  is  offered  for  any  impuri- 
ties found  in  the  syrup. 


Is  the  Pripcc 

ooOf 


w 


w 


Is  Sparkling,  natural.  Pure 


Its  richness  in  NATURAL  Carbonic  Acid 
Gas;  its  Delicious,  Clean  and  1'nre  Refresh- 
ing Taste;  its  Sparkling  Sharpness  and  its 
readiness  to  Assimilate  with  white  and  red 
wine,  champagne,  brandy  and  whiskey, 
renders  it  the  most 


Perfect  of  Table  Waters 

A  Tonic  to  tin- Weak.      Heath  to  Indiires-  i 
tion.  A.  Sure  Care  for  Dynpepd*.  A  Health- V 

fill    Hesera^.-       1'ure    Natural    I.MS.      Bffer- < '      A  NATA  SOLA  LKMONAUR  is  the  Perfection 
vesces  like  Champagne.  •  of  Luxurious  Drink. 

G.  H.  T.  JACKSON,  LESSEE 


WJBNDBLL  EASTON  GKO.  W.  FBINK  GEO.  EASTON 

President  Vice-President  Secretary 


Easton,  Eldridge  &  Co. 


REAL  ESTATE  AGENTS 


AND  AUCTIONEERS 

HOUSE  AND  INSURANCE   BROKERS 

OFFICE    AND    SALESROOM 

638  MARKET  STREET 

Opposite  Palace  Hotel  SAN  FRANCISCO,  GAL. 

Regular  Auction  Sale  Day,  Tuesday 


. . 


Came  I  line 


For  the  improvement  and  preservation 
of  the  Complexion.  The  only  reliable 
article.  .'.  Sanctioned  by  the  medical 
profession  as  absolute!}?-  free  from  in- 
jurious ingredients.  ..... 

For  sale  Agreeable,  Effective 

By  All 

Drugget? 


1843  THE  BEST  COA\PAfiY  1892 

The  Best  Company  is  the  Company  that  does  the  Most  Good 


The  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Co, 


OF    NEW    YORK 

A.    McCURDY,    President 

Since  its  organization  in  1843,  up  to  January  1st,  1892,  has  received  in 

premiums...  ............  $418.834.675 

And  has  returned  to  Its  members  ................................................   J23  447  859 

Nearly  78  per  cent  of  the  whole  amount  of  premiums  received.      It 

now  holds  in  trust  for  its  Policy-holders  upwards  of  .....................    165)000,000 

Cash  assets,  securely  invested,  to  carry  out  faithfully  all  its  contracts. 

The  above  it  a  wonderful  stewardship,  as  shown  by  sworn  statements  made  to  the  Insurance  departments  of  the 

several  States. 

This  Company's  New  Dixtribution  Policy  is  the  most  Liberal 
ever  issued  by  any  Life  Insurance  Company  _  .  _  .  _  . 

MUTUAL    LIFE    CONSOLS         o         o         o 

The  Consol  Policy  recently  announced  by  the  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Company 
of  New  York  combines  more  adTantages,  with  fewer  restrictions,  than  any  Invest- 
ment insurance  contract  ever  offered.  It  consolidates  Insurance,  Endowment, 
Investment,  Annual  Income.  No  other  company  offers  this  policy.  Apply  to 
Company's  Authorized  Agents  for  details. 

A.      B.      FORBES 

General  Agent  for  Pacific  Coast 
4-O1   CALIFORNIA  STREET  SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 


&•  CO. 

Wlarebouse 

401  &  403  Sansome  St. 


Cor.  Sacramento  5t.  3&n  Francisco, 

Keep  a  Full  Line  of  All  Kinds  of  Printing  and  Wrapping  Papers 

Miss  Kate   Plunk:ett= 


Feip&le  Employment  Bureau 

424  Sutter  Street,  Between  Stockton  and  Powell,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 

The  Best  of  Female  Help  Furnished  on  Short  Notice 

Special   Attention   Paid   to   Country   Or<!«-r-. 
TELEPHONE  No.  5472.     Sutter  and  Powell  St.  cars  pass  the  door 


CHILION  BEACH 


.    .   IMPORTER   OF 


107  MONTGOMERY  STRSST 

OFF.  OCCIDENTAL  HOTEL,  San  Francisco 

Monograms  and  Crests  artistically  Designed  and  Engraved.  New  Books  and  the  very 
Latest  Styles  of  Stationery.  Special  attention  given  to  Wedding  and  Visiting  Cards.  A 
Full  Line  of  Birthday  Cards  always  in  stock.  Christmas,  New  Year  and  Easter  Cards  in 
their  season.  Juvenile  Books  in  great  variety.  We  keep  in  Stock  Marcus  Ward's  Cele- 
brated Irish  Linen  Papers  and  Envelopes. 

GHIRKRPEL.L.1'S 

-     ^   Cbocoktes  Mjd  Gorm? 

The  Standard  of  Excellence 

BEST    MATERIALS  STRICTLY    PURE 


